DAY 123

FAMOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS

Helmut Newton (1920–2004)

THE KING OF KINK

Helmut Newton built his reputation on his capacity to shock. Indeed, his images were rife with plenty of isms: fetishism, sadomasochism, and voyeurism, and one must not overlook the themes of pornography, bondage, prostitution, and aggressive cat fights. The models in his photographs appear pristine and aloof, with perfect hair and makeup, often either nude or seminude, clad in neck braces, casts, dog collars, heels, or perhaps in a wheelchair. Because he went to such great lengths to depict his female models in the most unusual ways possible, it should come as no surprise that his birthday was on Halloween.

Although he was born in Germany, Newton fled to Singapore in 1938 to escape the Nazis.

He settled in Paris in 1961 and began to develop his signature style of erotically charged, unsettling imagery. His work appeared in British Vogue and Jardin Des Modes, followed by French Vogue. However, his work did not appear in American Vogue until 1971, after Dianna Vreeland was fired (apparently, she was not a fan).

He has been honored with The Tokyo Art Director’s Club Prize, The Life Legend Award for Lifetime Achievement in Magazine Photography (Life magazine, 1999), and recognized by the French and German governments.

Helmut died in a car accident in Los Angeles in 2004. His final spread in Vogue depicted a model eating grass and another lying on a bed of nails.¹ —GC