Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
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18 0 THE FASHION DESIGN REFERENCE + SPECIFICATION BOOK
(Text)
Knits
A certain amount of give should be built into the seams of knit garments. The degree varies
and depends on the type of knit. Single knits like jersey have around 25 percent stretch, dou-
ble knits may reach up to 75 percent stretch, and ribbed knits up to 100 percent. The cut edg-
es of fabrics with less stretch are more apt to curl. Sergers are popular for assembling knits,
especially for sportswear, because they have a lot of give and offer a very clean finish. Using
a stretch stitch, tricot stitch, or zigzag stitch are options for a conventional machine. Polyester
or nylon thread provides greater elasticity, and ballpoint needles are designed to penetrate
knits without snagging or breaking threads and causing runs in the fabric.
Knit garments will have areas where stretch is not an asset, such as the neckline, armholes,
shoulder seams, waistline and anywhere a zipper is going. Fabrics with little or no stretch can
be sewn into these areas to prevent unwanted give. Stay-Tape is a sheer, nonfraying stabilizer
used for fine knits. Twill tape, seam or hem binding, and clear plastic are useful alternatives.
Topstitching from the right side of the fabric can also prevent curling or stretching.
Zippers
A properly installed zipper is a thing of beauty. Zippers can be sewn into a garment by hand
or by machine. The zipper foot attachment for most machines is basically half a presser foot
that allows the stitcher to bring the edge of the zipper teeth as close to the needle as pos-
sible, while avoiding accidental stitching onto the teeth. With zippers, basting once again is a
designer’s best friend. Sewers should avoid excess fabric that might catch in the teeth of the
zipper; it is also helpful to start with a zipper that is slightly longer than the garment opening.
Before inserting the zipper, adding a strip of interfacing along the seam allowance helps to
support the zipper’s weight and stabilize the fabric.
Zippers come in three basic types: conventional, invisible, and separating. The standard zip-
per can be intentionally visible, hidden by a flap of fabric on one side, called a fly front, or
centered railroad-style with both sides of the seam working to disguise the closure. Invisible
zippers are popular because the opening appears to disappear into the seam, but should only
be used with the appropriate fabric weights and in areas that do not require great resistance
to stress. Separating zippers, commonly used for sportswear and outer garments, are inten-
tionally visible and easy to access.
TAILORING
Good tailoring demands painstaking cutting, fitting, pressing, and finishing. Also referred to as
bespoke tailoring, this process eschews preexisting patterns because it starts from scratch
for each new customer project. Suits, coats, and trousers are the traditional garments made
with tailoring techniques. Expert hand stitching is a key component of tailoring. Both hand and
machine stitches should be made secure at the beginning of a stitch as well as at the end of
one. Uniform lengths that are both strong and inconspicuous are desired. Using a thimble is
helpful when a stitch needs to pierce many layers of fabric. A professional tailored finish is the
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Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:180
176-181_30034.indd 180 2/27/13 4:59 PM