Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:252
248-255_30034.indd 252 2/27/13 6:38 PM
2 5 2 THE FASHION DESIGN REFERENCE + SPECIFICATION BOOK
(Text)
Cultural Identity
People from every corner of the globe buy into fashion, and yet there is a disproportionate
representation of different ethnicities and body types in the design field as well as among
the models on the runways and in the pages of fashion magazines. The perpetuation of a nar-
row definition of beauty contributes to racial bias. Moreover, the bottom line has advertisers
crafting very culture-specific images designed to harness a particular purchasing power. But
how can the fashion industry in the twenty-first century justify this imbalance? As the public
becomes more aware of the issue, they realize that if they are being asked to invest in the
products, they are entitled to see themselves represented in the fashion ads, in the editorials,
and on the catwalks.
Whatever their background, designers can address the fact that the exclusion of models of
color limits the potential of fashion. A precedent was set in 2008 when CFDA president Diane
von Furstenberg reached out to designers in an effort to encourage them to be diverse in their
runway presentations, although many of the shows remained whitewashed. This is not an
argument for enforcing multicultural quotas. What is important is that designers expose them-
selves to many different cultures and recognize that their business is supported by a range of
racial backgrounds.
Former model and agency owner Bethann Hardison has initiated a public discussion about the
relationship between black models and the fashion industry. History shows that black models
have made names for themselves. Dorothea Towles launched her modeling career in the early
1950s working for Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Pierre Balmain. Helen Williams was
the first prominent black model in the United States in the 1960s. Mounia was the first black
model on the Yves Saint Laurent runway. Naomi Sims appeared on the cover of Life magazine
in 1969, accompanying an article about new black models. Beverly Johnson was the first black
model to appear of the cover of Vogue, in August 1974. Pat Cleveland became a 1970s super-
model and muse to designer Stephen Burrows. Iman appeared in Vogue in 1976, her first job.
More recently, Veronica Webb, Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Alek Wek, and Jourdan Dunn have
all had a strong presence. Observing the dates associated with each model, though, the ques-
tion becomes, Does the industry believe there is only room for one model of color at a time?
The current wave of Brazilian models, which include Gisele Bündchen, Adriana Lima, and
Alessandra Ambrosio, has taken fashion by storm. Yet they represent only a small fraction of
Hispanic beauty when one considers how diverse those origins are: European (Spain), Central
American (Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Panama), South
America (Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay, Ven-
ezuela), Caribbean (Cuba, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico), North America (Mexico, United
States), Africa (Equatorial Guinea), and Oceania (Easter Island). Asian models have a very low
profile in fashion, but the number of new faces is growing: Devon Aoki (Japanese-American),
Han Jin (Korean), Yoon Sun Kim (Korea), Lakshmi Menon (Indian), Hye Rim Park (Korean-
American), Ling Tan (Malaysian), and Ai Tominaga (Japanese). The launch of Vogue China has
contributed to the growing awareness of Chinese models, including Xiaoyi Dai, Du Juan, Emma
Pei, Audrey Quock, Mo Wandan, Liu Wen, and Sonny Zhou.
D
Photograph by Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images for IMG.
A
D
H
C
M
C
P
O
N
A
I
L
25
Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:252
248-255_30034.indd 252 2/27/13 6:38 PM