Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
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124 THE FASHION DESIGN REFERENCE + SPECIFICATION BOOK
(Text)
PERFORMANCE FABRICS
Technological advances have been instrumental in the development of fabrics categorized as
high performance. These fabrics are usually synthetic and are designed to excel in retaining
body heat (Polartec, Primaloft, Thermolite, Thinsulate), ventilation/moisture wicking (Coolmax),
and resisting bacteria, fungi, and yeast (Biofresh). Fabrics have also been designed to be wa-
terproof (Goretex) and windproof (Supplex, Ventile) and to block ultraviolet rays (SolarWeave),
to repel insects (Buzz Off), and to resist abrasions, punctures, and even bullets (ballistic
nylon, Cordura). These fabrics are found predominantly in outerwear and active sportswear,
but are making their way into many other apparel categories. Micro ber is tightly woven from
polyester or nylon laments half the diameter of a strand of silk. The fabric is so ne and soft
to the touch that it is used for evening gowns. The owners of such gowns enjoy the added
bene t of wearing a fabric that protects against water and wind.
FABRIC FINISHING
Greige, or gray, goods are un nished fabrics just removed from a loom or knitting machine.
They are usually rough to the touch and require cleaning before they are t for consumption.
These fabrics undergo several processes in the nal stages of production to re ne them for
the marketplace.
Burling: Removes foreign matter, loose threads, knots, and slubs
Scouring: Removes dirt, oils, sizing, and lint
Mercerization (for cotton): Increases luster, improves strength and af nity for dyes
Bleaching: Prepares fabrics for dyeing
Glazing: Enhances appearance
Sizing: Affects surface touch
Preshrinking: Enhances performance
DYEING
Different fabrics require distinct types of dyes, depending on their ber content. Natural and
man-made fabrics include both cellulose (cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, bamboo and rayon) and
protein (wool, angora, mohair, cashmere, silk, and soy) forms. Cellulose-based fabrics are suc-
cessfully colored using ber-reactive, direct/substantive, and vat dyes (colorless, soluble dyes
xed by light or oxygen). Protein fabrics are best colored by vat, acid, or indirect/mordant dyes
that require a bonding agent. Synthetics do not fall into one category; each require its own
method: polyester (disperse dyes), nylon (acid, disperse, and pigment dyes), spandex (metal
complex acid dyes), rayon acetate (disperse dyes), and acrylic (disperse and basic dyes).
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Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:124
116-129_30034.indd 124 2/27/13 4:40 PM