Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
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18 2 THE FASHION DESIGN REFERENCE + SPECIFICATION BOOK
(Text)
Chapter 17: Finishing
During the nal stages of a garment, the designer has to display a light touch.
Any and all details added at this point must be about balance and polish.
Finishing also affects the drape and t. Final work on a garment includes add-
ing closures and decoration, hemming, and pressing. In addition, the designer
should check for loose threads, missed stitches, and any other aws. When
making garments for a speci c client (or samples that will be worn by a model
in photographs or on the runway), a nal tting will ensure a good presentation.
CLOSURES
Buttons
The two basic button types are the sew-thru, which usually has two or four holes for securing
it to the fabric, and the shank style, which has a loop. Buttons can be fashioned of practically
any material. Special button blanks can be covered in fabric to match the garment. For added
strength, a reinforcement button can link to the button from the wrong side. Multi-ply thread
chains known as thread loops provide an alternative way to fasten a button. Machines can
sew on a button, but this type of procedure is more apt to loosen and come undone with time
and wear. Hand-sewn buttons are preferred because of their strength and lifespan.
The placement of any kind of closure needs to be planned out so that both sides align to lie
at and to avoid gaps. Temporary stitches are used as guides for buttonholes, whether they
are machine stitched, hand worked, bound, corded, or keyhole. Thread buttonholes usually
have bar tacks to reinforce the ends. Correct positioning can be established by using the
original pattern piece or a buttonhole template. Buttonholes are usually placed vertically on
shirtfronts, with the exception of the collar position where a horizontal buttonhole is preferred.
As a rule, suit jackets, waistcoats, outerwear, and waistbands employ horizontal buttonholes.
Hook and Eyes
Fashioned from metal wire, two-sided hook and eyes come in many different sizes and can be
painted any color or be covered with thread. They are often used to secure the top of a zipper,
close a keyhole opening, or to bustle a fabric train. Flat-back hook and eyes are commonly
used for waistbands on skirts and pants for a ush nish. Rows of hook and eyes are found on
bras, corsets, and other undergarments. Strips of twill tape equipped with multiple hook and
eyes can be machine stitched into garments.
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Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:182
182-191_30034.indd 182 3/5/13 6:31 PM