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Chapter 12: Silhouette
Silhouette plays a big part in the initial impact of a design. Color, texture,
pattern, and detail ll the body of the garment, but it is the form that provides
a structural setting for the design concept. The combination of silhouettes is
another factor to consider when an ensemble is composed of multiple gar-
ments. The contours and dimensions of shapes will in uence perceptions of
its presence in an environment. Is a dress sleek and uid? Is a suit bold and
angular? Is a blouse billowy and voluminous?
BASIC SILHOUETTES
When combining silhouette shapes, scale will help to accentuate whatever the designer in-
tends to emphasize. A triangular shape creates an A frame, which produces variations such as
the A-line, swing, tent, or trapeze. This shape flares out to skim over the body. Inverting the
triangle so that it tapers toward the bottom can be described as a V frame. When this shape
is paired with a vertical rectangle, it is defined as a Y silhouette. Flipping the Y creates an at-
tractive trumpetlike composite. The hourglass silhouette consists of inverse triangles. Round
and oval shapes are effective in adding mass where desired. Stacking the same shapes on
top of each other without varying scale or inverting shapes generally results in an overwhelm-
ing and unflattering shape. One exception is two rectangles joined as an H frame. This combi-
nation will work in narrow proportions for suits and tunics over skirts. Substituting a square for
the rectangle can be used to block up and shorten a silhouette. Garments are transformed by
silhouette and the ratio of combinations. A fitted bodice paired with a pegged skirt will have
an hourglass appearance, while a full shirt or blouse tucked into a straight pant will give the
impression of a Y. A dress with padded shoulders and a tapered hemline results in a V-shaped
chemise.
A Silhouette Y SilhouetteH Silhouette
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131
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GARMENT COMPONENTS
The menu of fundamental garments embraces both wovens, which include the fitted bodice,
blouse, skirt, pants, jumpsuit, dress, jacket, blazer, coat, vest, bustier, corset, kimono, and hal-
ter, and knits, which include the T-shirt, sweater, leggings, bodysuit, unitard, and or camisole.
Many fitted garments are made up of several pieces that can be shortened, lengthened, and
sculpted into more specific shapes. A bodice is composed of a front and back, with or without
a sleeve. A blouse may also incorporate a collar, cuff, button placket, and shoulder yokes.
The particular placement of the darts, seams, armholes, and waistline will customize either.
The depth and breadth of a neckline will carve out negative space. Cutting away the top of
this garment or extending the front sections can produce a strapless bodice or a wrap top,
respectively.
Darts, Seams, and Cutways
Bust Line Darts: Center, waist, French, side seam, armhole, neckline, shoulder, T-dart,
inverted T-dart
Princess Line: Side seam, armhole, shoulder, neckline, closed
Seams: Center front, center back, side, armhole, shoulder
Waistline: Empire, high, true, low-rise, dropped
Cutways: Scallops, cut outs, keyholes
Yokes: Replace darts with continuous horizontal seam
Neckline Dart Shoulder Dart T-Dart Inverted T-Dart
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Details
Necklines: Jewel, crew, V-neck, square, sweetheart, asymmetrical, scoop, U-neck, keyhole,
boat or bateau, f unnel or built-up
Flat Collars: Sailor, Peter Pan, Bertha, convertible, pilgrim
Built-up Collars: Cutaway, spread, point, rounded club, tab, button-down, band,
mandarin, or shawl
Hoods:
Gable, French, calash, academic
Lapels: Shawl, peaked, notched, cloverleaf
Armholes: Inset, dropped, raglan, gusset
Cuffs: French, roll back, shirt tailored, barrel
Pockets: Welt, kangaroo, cargo, patch, ap, inseam, besom
Sleeves
Shape: Fitted, straight, bell, f ull, puf f , peasant, leg-o’-mutton, petal or tulip, Juliet, kimono,
lantern, bishop
Length: Cap, short, half , three-quarter, seven-eights, long
Fitted Sleeve Straight Sleeve Bell Sleeve Full Sleeve
S
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Le
Pe
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Skirts
Shape: Pegged, straight or pencil, A-line, bell or f ull, tulip, circle, dirndl
Length: Micro, mini, short, above the knee, below the knee, tea length, maxi or f ull
Pegged Skirt Straight Skirt A-line Skirt Bell Skirt
Pants
Shape: Tapered, straight, ared (bell-bottom, boot-cut), f ull or palazzo, harem
Length: Hot pant or tap pant, short-short, boy short, short, Bermuda, jams, capri, pedal
pusher, clam digger, toreador, long
Tapered Pant Straight Pant Flared Pant Full Pant
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Dress
Any combination of top and skirt described above, with or without a seam at the waistline
Popular Full Silhouettes: Chemise or shift, shirtwaist, blouson, tent, trapeze or swing,
coat dress, caftan, kimono
Popular Fitted Silhouettes: Sheath, mermaid, princess, slip, cheongsam or qípáo
Jumpsuit
Any combination of top and pant described above, with or without a seam at the waistline
Popular Silhouettes: Coveralls or overalls, ski suit, trouser gown, pantsuit, catsuit
Suiting, Layering, and Outerwear
Suiting: Jacket, blazer, bolero, waistcoat
Layering: Cardigan, shrug, stole
Outerwear: Coat, cape, cocoon, stadium, trench, wrap, duster, bomber
Waistline Heights Sleeve Lengths Skirt Lengths Pant Lengths
Fl
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