Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:181
Book
e:180
176-181_30034.indd 181 2/27/13 5:00 PM
Stitching 181
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PRODUCTION
When the sewing falls to others, designers must carefully supervise the sample-making and
production-run processes to guarantee quality control. Companies that specialize in sample
making will work closely with the designer to ensure that the garment is executed correctly
and according to the designer’s specific standards. For a designer who does not have a large
staff, sample-making services can greatly help with cutting, stitching, and finishing. Larger
scale runs will be done in factories, locally or overseas. In either scenario, the designer should
provide as much detailed information as possibletechnical or spec sketches, cutting tick-
ets, swatches, photographs—to help avoid miscommunication.
TAILORING STITCHES
Back or Prick Stitches:
Used to reinforce an area or to add detail
Buttonhole Stitches: Very strong stitches used to secure fasteners and make buttonholes
Catch Stitches: X-shaped stitches for hemming and joining pieces of interfacing. Also called flat or blind catch stitches
Cross Stitches: X- or cross-shaped stitches used to tack things in place
Diagonal Basting: A longer type of pad stitch
Feather or Briar Stitches: Decorative stitches used to secure appliqués or as embroidery detail
Felling Stitches: Slant stitches used to secure the under collar of a jacket or to close seams
French Tack Stitches: Used to secure segments of a garment together
Overcast or Whip Stitches: Used on a seam or edge to prevent raveling
Pad Stitches: Chevron or V-shaped stitches used to provide firmness when attaching interfacing to a garment
Running Stitches: Similar to basting but more permanent; used to create ease, fine gathers, and for darning
Saddle Stitches: Long running stitches used for hand-done topstitching
Slip or Blind Stitches: Sewn under fold lines to give the illusion of being invisible
Slip Basting: Temporary stitch used for matching and securing plaids and other patterns
Stab Stitches: Permanent stitches used in shoulder pads and quilting to secure multiple layers
Whip or Slant Stitches: Used to join seams and finish edges, preventing raveling on hems
Cutting Tickets
A cutting ticket, or a cutters must, is record of all pertinent information that goes from the
patternmaker to the cutter and eventually the stitcher. Certain basics should appear on all
tickets, but they can also be customized to include every component that is to accompany a
given garment as it goes through the production cycle.
result of skilled steaming and pressing that shapes and molds fabric to the contours of the
body in a way that balances structural integrity with smooth, clean surfaces and seams.
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Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:181
Book
e:180
176-181_30034.indd 181 2/27/13 4:59 PM
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