Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:173
Book
e:172
162-175_30034.indd 173 2/27/13 4:55 PM
Patternmaking 173
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Marking: Cross marks, dots, and corners are the basic markings found on a draped pattern.
In areas such as the side seam of a bodice, the designer need only mark the top and the bot-
tom with a corner, knowing that a straight line will connect them. In curved areas, a dot can
be placed approximately every half inch (1.3 cm). The apex of a dart should be marked with a
cross mark of two pins.
Truing the Pattern: Once all the necessary markings have been made on the draped piece, it
is unpinned and laid out flat. At this point, it is trued: All the lines, straight and curved, are
clearly drawn on the fabric, ascertaining that corresponding areas match up. During this pro-
cess, the designer will add the desired amount of ease to areas that allow for greater freedom
of movement, such as the armhole, across the upper back and seat, and the center front
neck. The “down and out” formula for armholes cuts deeper into the armhole (down) and adds
fullness across the torso at this point (out). Squaring corners helps to avoid dips and points
where pieces are sewn together.
Positive and Negative Ease: In woven garments, ease involves adding to an area to create
more room. Knitted garments can have negative ease as well. This is best illustrated in how a
swimsuit will look much smaller than the size of the body for which it has been designed, yet
stretches not only to conform to the body but also to support it.
Seam Allowance: All designers establish their own in-house rules for seam allowance. The
traditional amount is half an inch (1.3 cm) for most seams, a quarter inch (0.6 cm) at the neck,
and two inches (5.1 cm) at the hem. Larger allowances are important when the designer an-
ticipates fluctuations in size, as in the case of a bride who might be putting on pounds due to
stress or be dieting before her big day.
Facings: Areas in a pattern piece meant to be finished with a clean edge require facings. Neck-
lines, armholes, center-front lapels, keyhole openings, and other similar features are ideal
candidates for facings. These pattern pieces are duplicate reflections of the intended section
of the original pattern. Facings may be separate pattern pieces or be designed as a mirrored
extension of the original pattern piece and drafted along a fold line. The facings are attached
to the designated area, right sides facing, and then turned in to provide the desired finish.
Seams that are curved should be clipped for ease so that they lie flat. These facings might
remain loose, be tacked down, or be sewn to the lining.
Cutting: Much care should be taken when cutting away the extra fabric that is not a part of the
finished pattern. When dealing with an area with darts, close them with a pin at the base and
fold the fabric of the darts toward the side seam. Positioning the dart in this manner before
cutting will ensure that there is enough fabric at the base of the dart to be caught in the seam
when sewn together. This will provide a clean, finished appearance.
15
Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:173
Book
e:172
162-175_30034.indd 173 2/27/13 4:55 PM