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Fairs
Pitti Immagine Filati (yarns and latest
trends), Florence
Milano Unica (fabrics), Milan
Première Vision Pluriel, Paris
Texworld (fabrics), Paris
Munich Fabric Start (fabrics), Munich
Seasons
January–February 2009
Spring–Summer 2010
September 2009
Fall–Winter 2010-2011
RAW MATERIALS FAIR CALENDAR
the process. They are held in January
and February to meet the supply needs
of spring and summer collections and
in September for fall and winter collec-
tions of the following year. This means
that innovations and trends in raw
materials are known eighteen months
before the consumer can acquire the
finished garment from the store.
The most important fairs in Europe
are the Prèmiere Vision Pluriel, which
takes place in Paris and includes
Prèmiere Vision for fabrics, Expofil
for fabrics and yarns, Mod’Amont for
accessories, and Le cuir a Paris for
leather; Pitti Immagine Filati in Flor-
ence for yarns and latest trends, and
fairs devoted exclusively to fabrics
such as Milano Unica, Munich Fabric
Start and Texworld, in Paris, which
brings in Asian weavers.
Navigating a fair is not easy, espe-
cially the first time around. Prèmiere
Vision, for example, brings together
around 700 exhibitors, and it is prac-
tically impossible to visit them all.
The most practical thing to do is to
begin with the latest-trends show. It
provides information about fabric pro-
posals for the upcoming season, with
samples accompanied by the name of
the manufacturer, and thus can serve
as a point of departure.
PURCHASING ALTERNATIVES
Aside from fairs, another option consists
of contacting distributors or agents,
businesses that work with different
manufacturers. Sometimes this proves
an attractive alternative because an
intermediary can facilitate the process.
Through direct contact with the man-
ufacturer, prices can be negotiated
according to amounts, as the interme-
diary customarily works with various
designers or different brands.
For a first contact, another useful
resource is the Internet, with its spe-
cialized pages for searching for raw
materials.
THE SUPPLIERS
Whether one chooses to do so through
associations, fairs, distributors or
agents, the most complicated decision
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© Expofil
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is where and how to buy, for it is a
choice that involves many factors and
entails the manufacturer becoming
the supplier to the designer. This is
true both of the textile and leather
sectors, with an added difficulty in the
latter case: leather is an expensive
material.
A good and close relationship between
the supplier and the designer is essen-
tial, whether one is just starting out or
has already made a name for oneself.
In fact, designers now refer to suppli-
ers as partners or collaborators given
that they are partly responsible for
a designer’s success. In the case of
luxury brands, for instance, suppliers
are one of the brand’s main assets, as
the two often develop collections con-
sisting of exclusive fabrics together,
not only to surprise clients, but also
to avoid copies.
When buying the materials it is nec-
essary to know the amount of fabric
needed for the entire collection. At
the outset of negotiations, the first
thing that the weaver will demand is
an order for a minimum of meters.
So if a designer does not have a large
production in mind, it is advisable
for her to buy a large quantity of a
limited range of fabrics. It must be
remembered that the less meters
ordered, the more difficult it will be to
negotiate prices and, consequently,
the more expensive the fabric will
be. Occasionally, one finds surplus
fabric or fabrics from other seasons
in stock, at lower prices. In foot-
wear, moreover, it is difficult to cal-
culate the amount of meters needed
because the shoe production process
is very complex.
Once the order is made, it is advisable
to stay in touch with the supplier and,
once received, to make sure the deliv-
ery corresponds with the order.
In any event, between the time of
the negotiation of amounts, prices,
and delivery dates and the reception
of the order, it is normal to maintain
contact in order to manage possible
modifications and ensure agreement
down to the smallest detail that might
have been overlooked, such as who
will be responsible for shipping costs,
the suppler or the designer, something
that should be reflected in the invoice.
During this period it is also important
to control the duration of time in the
processes as any delay in the arrival
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