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FIELD GUIDE: HOW TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER
Once they have been used, patterns
are stored in envelopes or hung from
hooks, in order to avoid wrinkling.
THE MOULAGE
This is a technique that consists in the
three-dimensional creation of a design
or pattern, molding the fabric directly
onto a body, whether it be the body of
a sewing dummy or a model. For this
reason it might be said that it is a form
of “sculpting on a body with cloth.”
Despite being an artisanal process, it
is a technique that allows for the cre-
ation of atypical volumes that would
be very difficult to obtain one-dimen-
sionally. This characteristic makes it
a technique utilized rather frequently
in haute couture, and some designers
of prêt-à-porter also employ it in the
creation of certain garments.
THE TEST GARMENT
This is the first sample of the garment
once the pattern has been developed.
Generally it is done with calico, per-
cale, or some other fabric with the
same weight and behavior as the
fabric that will be used for the final
garment, as it is possible that a pat-
tern will not function with a fabric
different from the one for which it has
been conceived. For instance, if the
fabric to be used for the garment is
elastic, a knit fabric must be used for
the test garment. Normally, the fabric
is white or natural, given that these
colors make the cuts and tailoring of
the pattern easier to see.
In this first sample, it is not neces-
sary to sew the lining or the pock-
ets. Only the elements involved in
the construction of the garment are
made, so as to be able to visualize
the piece in three dimensions prior
to its construction. Thus, it is pos-
sible to fine-tune the proportions and
details, as well as to confirm that
the pattern is properly made and the
garment adapts well to the body. In
the case of the latter, it is at this time
that corrections must be made and
the garment modified, which can be
executed directly onto the test gar-
ment with tailor’s chalk. Once all the
changes have been made the correc-
tions must then be incorporated into
the patterns.
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