Understanding the advantages of extra RAM
Shopping for a RAM upgrade
Choosing between internal and external hard drives
Determining your hard drive needs
Shopping for a new hard drive
Installing your upgrades
Most MacBook owners will make two upgrades — adding more memory (RAM) and additional hard drive space — during the lifetime of their computers. These two improvements have the greatest effect on the overall performance of Mac OS X. By adding RAM and additional hard drive space, not only do you make more elbow room for your applications and documents, but everything runs faster: Think of the Six Million Dollar Man, only a heck of a lot cheaper to operate (and no strange noises accompanying your every move).
In this chapter, I steer you around the hidden potholes along the way for those who aren't well versed in selecting memory modules or weighing the advantages of different types of hard drives. However, if you buy the wrong piece of hardware, remember that using a hammer to make it fit is not a workable option.
Of all the possible upgrades that you can make to your MacBook, adding more random access memory (RAM) is the single most cost-effective method of improving the performance of Mac OS X. (In fact, your machine will likely run faster with more memory than a reasonably faster processor!) Here is exactly what Mac OS X uses available RAM for:
Applications: Naturally, Mac OS X needs system RAM to run the applications that you launch. The more memory in your machine, the larger the applications that you can open and the faster they'll run.
Overhead: This includes the operating system itself, as well as various and sundry buffers and memory areas devoted for temporary work. As you would guess, the more memory here, the merrier.
Virtual memory: Aha! Now here's something that I mention lightly and politely in Book II but hasn't really amounted to a hill of beans until this moment. (Can you tell I'm a big fan of Bing Crosby?) Virtual memory allows Mac OS X to use empty hard drive space as temporary system memory, as shown in Figure 2-1. Data is written to your hard drive instead of being stored in RAM, and then it's erased when it's no longer needed. This is a neat trick that's also used by Windows and Linux. Virtual memory works automatically within Mac OS X.
At first, virtual memory sounds like absolute bliss, and it does indeed allow your MacBook to do things that would otherwise be impossible, such as running an application that requires 4GB of RAM in just 2GB of actual physical RAM. However, here come the caveats:
Virtual memory is as slow as molasses in December. Even today's fastest hard drive is many, many times slower than real silicon, so any use of virtual memory instead RAM slows down Mac OS X significantly.
Virtual memory abuses your hard drive. If you've ever run Photoshop on a Windows PC with 128MB of RAM, you're having flashbacks right now. Whenever your MacBook is using virtual memory, your hard drive remains almost constantly active. (Hardware types, like myself, call this phenomenon thrashing because we know what's happening inside that poor hard drive.) Over time, running any computer with insufficient RAM and behemoth applications will result in a significant increase in hard drive wear and tear.
Virtual memory costs you processing power. With sufficient RAM, Mac OS X gleefully runs as efficiently as it can. When virtual memory kicks in, however, your MacBook has to spend part of its quality time shuttling data to and from the hard drive, which robs your computer of processing power.
The moral of the story is very simple, so it's time for another of Mark's Maxims:
Note
The less Mac OS X needs to use virtual memory, the better.
To put it another way, physical memory (meaning memory modules) is always a better choice than virtual memory. This is why power users and techno-types crave as much system memory as possible.
Note
A little over five years ago, 256MB of RAM was a quite comfortable figure for most folks, but almost all of today's MacBooks can accept at least a whopping 4GB (that's short for gigabyte, or 1,024 megabytes) of system RAM. (The exception to this rule is the MacBook Air, which comes with 2GB of RAM and can't be expanded.)
If you'll be keeping your current MacBook for a few years more, install as much memory as you can afford — you'll thank me every time Mac OS X Snow Leopard boots.
Before you click some online computer store's Buy button, you need to determine two things that will help you determine which memory module to buy: how much RAM you already have and how much more your system can handle.
Memory modules are made in standard sizes, so you need to determine how much memory you already have and which of your memory slots are filled. To do this, open the Apple System Profiler by clicking the Apple menu, choosing About This Mac, and then clicking the More Info button.
After you launch this application, it takes a few seconds to scan your laptop and display all sorts of identifying information about the hardware and software that you're using. Check out the Memory item in the Hardware section. Here you can see exactly how many memory modules you have, what type they are, and how much memory each provides. For example, in Figure 2-2, this machine has two memory slots — labeled Bank0/DIMM0 and Bank1/DIMM1. Both those slots are filled to the brim with a 1GB module each, giving me a total physical memory of 2048MB, or 2GB. Jot down the name and contents of each slot on a piece of paper — or, if you're a real Mac OS X power user, add a Sticky to your Desktop with this information. (Stickies are covered in Book III, Chapter 2.)
However, on some machines, only one memory module can be upgraded by a mere mortal. For example, on many older Mac laptops, DIMM0 is an internal module and can be upgraded only by an Apple technician. (Insert sound of harps playing here.)
Unfortunately, this arrangement differs on just about every model of Macintosh ever made — some have more memory slots, and others allow you to upgrade all the system memory instead of just one module. The only way to determine which modules are accessible on your MacBook is to identify the exact model of your laptop.
Most folks know the type and model of their computers, but there's a catch here, too: Sometimes the memory that you need varies by the processor in your MacBook. Your eye should be on the actual processor speed and bus speed — the transfer speed that data reaches whilst speeding across your motherboard — because they're the identifying factors here.
Again, your salvation turns out to be Apple System Profiler. Just click the Hardware section to display both the machine speed (or processor speed) and the bus speed. (For example, my machine has a 1.83 GHz Intel Core Duo CPU running at 667 MHz bus speed.) Grab that same piece of paper (or open that same Sticky) and add these two figures to your list.
Now you're armed with the information that you need to go online and buy the right memory — or, if you'd rather work directly with a human being, you can visit your local Apple dealer, present that most august personage with the list, and have the memory upgrade ordered for you.
Tip
Buying memory online is much cheaper. I recommend the following online stores:
Next, turn your attention to the other popular MacBook upgrade — adding extra hard drive space. With today's cutting-edge, 3-D games using a gigabyte of space each and Photoshop CS4 expanding to a minimum of 2GB, IDC (short for Insidious Data Creep) is a growing problem. (Bad pun most certainly intended.)
You can save space by deleting those files and folders you don't need, but what fun is that? To reduce your MacBook's waistline before you consider adding more room, I recommend using Spring Cleaning from Smith Micro Software, which you can find at mysmithmicro.com. It's a great tool for locating duplicates, removing empty folders, and uninstalling old programs that you no longer use.
To determine how much free space remains on a hard drive, click the drive's icon on your Desktop and press
As a general rule, the following factors indicate that you're ready to upgrade your hard drive territory:
You have less than 10GB of space on your current hard drive.
You've cleaned all unnecessary files, and your MacBook is still lagging behind in storage.
You need to share a large amount of data between computers that aren't on the same network. (Read on to discover why.)
Most people who upgrade their existing hard drive do so because they need extra space; however, you might also need to add a hard drive to your system that can go mobile whenever necessary. Unlike an internal drive — which resides hidden inside your MacBook's case — an external drive is a lean, mean, self-contained traveling storage machine that's perfect for road warriors.
Tip
External removable cartridge drives, such as a REV drive from Iomega (www.iomega.com), are perfect for folks who have to send cartridges to other locations. Unfortunately, however, the capacities of these drives are rapidly falling behind conventional, nonremovable external hard drives. Also, all MacBooks now have an internal DVD-R drive (except for the MacBook Air), which make it easy to send up to 9GB of data through the mail. Therefore, if you're considering an external unit, go with the most popular pick — a high-capacity nonremovable hard drive, which offers the most storage for your dollar.
Most external drives are shock-mounted (meaning that they can take more abuse than an internal hard drive), and they carry their own power supply. In fact, some external drives actually don't need a separate power supply because they draw their power through your MacBook's Universal Serial Bus (USB) or FireWire port. (The next chapter in this minibook tells all about USB and FireWire.) You can also use a superfast external SATA drive with a MacBook Pro if you invest in a SATA card adapter for your laptop's ExpressCard/34 slot.
External drives also have a number of other advantages:
No installation hassle: You can easily install a USB or FireWire drive in seconds. Simply plug in the drive to the proper connector on your MacBook, connect the power supply (if necessary), and turn it on. (No software installation necessary. As the folks in Cupertino are fond of saying, "Look, Ma — no drivers!")
No extra space needed: Naturally, MacBooks simply don't have the internal space for another drive. Therefore, if you want to keep your existing internal drive as-is while you're adding more storage, an external drive is your only choice.
File sharing with ease: With an external drive, you can easily share your data between multiple Macs, even if they're not connected over a network.
Safe from prying eyes: Unlike an internal drive, external drives can be secured in a different spot, away from your MacBook. Take your sensitive information home with you or lock it in a safe.
After you plug in an external drive, Mac OS X displays it just like any other hard drive volume. Figure 2-4 illustrates my 60GB FireWire drive in action.
Your other alternative is to upgrade your internal drive, which can be a hassle. As does a memory upgrade, adding or swapping an internal drive involves opening your MacBook's case. In fact, it's a somewhat more complex procedure than adding memory.
Tip
I usually recommend that folks add a second drive rather than swap out their existing drive. You'll avoid the hassle of backing up and restoring your system on a new drive or (even worse) reinstalling Mac OS X and then reinstalling all the applications that you use. (Swapping a hard drive should be the definition of the word hassle.) Instead, add a second drive and leave your current hard drive as is (or if you're already using an external drive as a Time Machine backup, add a second external drive).
However, here are a number of very important reasons why many MacBook owners choose updating internal drives, even with the hassle of swapping:
They're cheaper. You'll spend significantly less on an internal drive because it doesn't need the case and additional electronics required by an external drive.
They're faster. Even a FireWire or USB 2.0 drive isn't as fast as an internal drive.
They take up less space in your work area. An internal drive eliminates the space taken by an external drive, which can range anywhere from the size of a paperback to the size of a hardback book.
After you establish that you are in fact ready for more space — and you've decided whether you want to add an internal drive, an external drive, or (if you enjoy punishment) upgrade your existing internal drive — you're ready to consider how big of a drive you need.
Your next step is to decide just how much hard drive space is enough. I suppose that if your last name is Gates and you had something to do with that Windows thing, you can probably pick just about any drive on the market. However, I have a family, a mortgage, a car payment, and lust in my heart for the latest computer games; therefore, I must be a little more selective.
I have two hard-and-fast rules that I follow when I'm determining the capacity of a new drive:
If you're buying a replacement for your existing drive, shop for a drive with at least twice the capacity of the existing drive (if possible).
If you're buying an external drive, shop for a drive with at least the same capacity as your existing internal drive (if possible).
Those rules seem to work pretty doggone well in most circumstances, with these two exceptions: gamers and digital video gurus. These folks need to shoehorn as much space as they possibly can into their systems. If you're a hardcore gamer or if you work primarily with digital video, you need a wheelbarrow's worth of hard drive capacity. Trust me: Buy the biggest hard drive that you can afford.
Ready to brave the local Wireless Shed superstore (or perhaps its Web site)? Here's a list of guidelines to keep handy while you're shopping for a new internal or external hard drive:
Faster is indeed better. You'll pay more for a 10,000 revolutions per minute (rpm) drive than a slower 5,400 or 7,200 rpm drive, but the extra cash is worth it. Faster drives can transfer more data to your MacBook's processor in less time, especially if you're replacing your MacBook's internal Serial ATA drive.
Tip
Faster drives are especially important for storing digital video.
Serial ATA and EIDE drives are different. If you're replacing your internal drive, you have to get the same type of drive that you already have: EIDE or Serial ATA. (EIDE is a common parallel ATA standard hard drive used in PCs and older Macs.) Again, System Profiler can tell you which type of drive your MacBook is currently using.
Avoid used or refurbished drives. Hard drives are one of the few components in your computer that still have a large number of moving parts. Therefore, buying a used drive isn't a good idea unless it's priced very low.
Tip
Because the prices on new hard drives are constantly dropping, make sure that you check on the price for a new, faster drive of the same capacity before you buy that bargain used drive.
Pick FireWire over USB. Compared with a FireWire connection, a USB 2.0 external hard drive is less efficient and slightly slower. Because most MacBooks with USB ports also have FireWire ports, make very sure that you buy a FireWire drive! (If your Mac has USB 2.0 ports, which will show up in System Profiler as well, you can buy a USB 2.0 drive without being embarrassed. Or invest in a drive that has both FireWire and USB 2.0 connectors!)
Watch the size of the drive when buying internal drives. Your MacBook's internal drive must fit in a small form factor, so don't invest in a standard half-height 3.5-inch unit!
Tip
Do what I do, and call your local Apple certified technician and verify that you're evaluating the right drive before you spend a dime.
After you get your memory modules or hard drive, pick one of two methods of installing them: easy or hard. Guess which method will cost you money?
Your Apple dealer can perform either type of hardware installation for you. You can rest easy knowing that the job will be done right, but money will definitely change hands.
Tip
Personally, I always recommend that owners of MacBook and MacBook Pro laptops allow their dealers to install hard drives because these laptops are much more complex than a desktop, and they're much easier to damage.
If you're familiar with the inside of your MacBook, you can install your own upgrade and save that cash. A memory upgrade is one of the simpler chores to perform, but that doesn't mean that everyone feels comfortable taking the cover off and jumping inside a computer; hard drives are a tad more complex.
Tip
If you have a knowledgeable friend or family member who can help you install your hardware, buy him the proverbial NSD (short for Nice Steak Dinner) and enlist him in your cause. Even if you still do the work yourself, it's always better to have a second pair of experienced eyes watching, especially if you're a little nervous.
Because the installation procedures for both memory modules and hard drives are different for every model of MacBook, I can't provide you with any step-by-step procedures in this chapter. Many online stores include installation instructions with their hardware. Other sources for installation instructions include the Apple Web site (www.apple.com) and your Apple dealer. You can use Safari's Google search feature to scan the Internet for installation information for your particular model. However, here are guidelines to follow during the installation:
Watch out for static electricity. When opening your MacBook and handling hardware, make certain that you've touched a metal surface beforehand to discharge any static electricity on your body. (You can also buy a static wrist strap that you can wear while working within the bowels of your Mac.)
Check the notches on memory modules. Most types of memory modules have notches cut into the connector. These notches make sure that you can install the module only one way, so make certain that they align properly with the slot.
Make sure you're using the right memory slot. As I mention earlier in this chapter, MacBooks have multiple memory slots, so check the label on the circuit board to make sure that you're adding the memory to the correct slot. (Naturally, this won't be a problem if you're installing a module into an unoccupied slot.)
Take good care of older hardware. If you replace an existing memory module or hard drive with a new one, put the old hardware in the leftover anti-static bag from your new hardware and immediately start thinking of how you'll word your eBay auction ...Used 1GB Memory Module for MacBook, for example.
Tip
To determine whether a memory upgrade was successful, you can again turn to the Apple System Profiler. Open the Profiler again and compare the memory overview specifications with the original list that you made earlier. If the total amount of memory has increased and the memory module is recognized, you've done your job well. If not, switch off the MacBook and check the module to make sure it's completely seated in the slot.