Chapter 20
IN THIS CHAPTER
Adding memory
Upgrading your internal drive
Checking out add-ons
“No laptop is an island.” Somebody famous wrote that, I’m sure.
Without getting too philosophical — or invoking the all-powerful Internet yet again — the old saying really does make sense. All computer owners usually add at least one peripheral (external device), such as a printer, trackball, backup drive, or scanner. I talk about the ports on your MacBook in Chapter 1. These holes aren’t there just to add visual interest to the sides of your treasured laptop. I cover your ports (and what you can plug into them) in detail in this chapter.
But what about the stuff inside your road warrior? That’s where things get both interesting and scary at the same time. In this chapter, I describe what you can add to the innards of your computer, as well as how to get inside there if you work up the courage to go exploring.
Every computer benefits from more memory — and no, there’s no however stuck on the end of that statement! For once, I’m happy to report, there’s no exception, no matter what type of computer you own. Hard as it is to believe, just keep in mind this Mark’s Maxim:
Period. End of statement. No matter what type of computer you own, how old it is, or what operating system you use, adding more memory to your system (to the maximum that it supports) significantly improves the performance of both your operating system and practically every application you run.
If your MacBook is already stuffed with the maximum amount of memory it can hold, you can skip this section.
Unfortunately, owners of all the latest MacBook models can skip this section as well, because these models can’t be upgraded. Because these laptops are sealed units — literally — you must visit your local Apple hardware technician if your laptop’s memory malfunctions and needs replacing. The same is true of the battery in all current MacBook models.
If you’re using an older MacBook with upgradeable memory, read on.
To see how much memory your computer has, click the Apple menu () and choose About This Mac. In the dialog that appears, your MacBook displays the machine speed (processor speed), the amount of memory it carries, and the common identifier that Apple uses to refer to your specific model. My older MacBook Air has a 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7 processor, it’s equipped with 8GB of memory, and it’s identified as an early 2015 model. Write down these figures. You’re starting a handy list that will help you when you order your memory!
How you plan memory upgrades depends on how much memory you want. Most MacBook owners simply opt to install the maximum amount of memory possible. So if your 4GB 13-inch non-Retina MacBook Pro is upgradeable to 8GB, and it currently uses the two default 2GB modules supplied by Apple, you can add 4GB of RAM by replacing the existing memory modules with two 4GB memory modules. At the time of this writing, a 4GB memory module should set you back less than $30.
In the past, Apple’s prices for upgrade RAM were … well, outrageous (as in, “Boy howdy, I can’t afford that!”). Recently, however, Apple’s prices have become far more competitive. If you’re interested in comparison shopping, I can heartily recommend any of these online sources that cater to Mac owners:
www.macmall.com
https://www.cdw.com/content/cdw/en/brand/apple.html
https://www.newegg.com
I’m happy to report that adding extra memory to your older laptop is one of the easiest internal upgrades you can perform. Therefore, I recommend that you add memory yourself unless you simply don’t want to mess with your laptop’s internal organs. Your local Apple service specialist will be happy to install new RAM modules for you (for a price).
To add memory modules to an older MacBook model, follow these steps:
Spread a clean towel on a stable work surface, such as your kitchen table.
The towel helps protect your screen from scratches.
Find a small Phillips screwdriver.
Some new models use a “star” screwdriver, so take a second to make sure that you’re using the right tool!
Ground thyself!
Check out the nearby “Let’s get grounded!” sidebar.
Remove the screws and bottom cover.
Depending on the model, you may have to remove up to 10 screws before you can put aside the cover. Note that some screws may be longer than others; if so, they must be replaced in the same locations. Place the screws in a handy plastic bowl for safekeeping. Tah-dah! That wasn’t much of a challenge, was it? Here’s your chance to gaze with rapt fascination at a portion of the bare innards of your favorite computer.
If you’re replacing an existing memory module, remove it.
To remove a memory module, gently spread the two tabs at the ends of the socket, as shown in Figure 20-1. Then lift and slide the module away from the socket.
Save the old module in the static-free packaging that held the new module. Your old RAM (which you can sell on eBay) will be protected from static electricity.
Line up the notch in the module with the matching spacer in the socket.
See what I mean in Figure 20-2.
Press gently but firmly on both ends of the module until the module’s tabs click into place at both ends of the socket.
Figure 20-3 shows the direction in which you should press on the module. If the module doesn’t seem to fit, make sure once again that the notch on the module connector lines up with the spacer in the socket. Never attempt to make it fit through sheer force!
Replace the bottom covers and screws.
To replace the bottom cover, just reverse the steps at the beginning of this list. (It’s rather like changing the oil in my Dad’s 1970 Ford pickup truck.)
Congratulations! You’ve done it. You’re a MacBook Pro memory guru! To verify that all is well with your road warrior, boot the computer and choose ⇒ About This Mac. Your laptop should report the additional memory.
Asking whether you can upgrade your internal drive is a trick question. Yes, you certainly can upgrade your hard drive. But before you start cruisin’ the Internet for a 2TB monster, I have two suggestions:
Apple’s pretty generous when it comes to configuring drive storage for its base systems. Current models run with anywhere from a 128GB solid-state drive to a 2TB solid-state drive.
Most folks simply don’t need more than 256GB or 500GB of drive space (even with Windows loaded in a separate partition for use with Boot Camp, which I discuss in Chapter 19). You’re likely to find that you still have plenty of elbow room on your drive for a typical family’s needs unless you’re heavily into
If you find that you need additional hard drive space, I recommend using an external drive. Use a high-speed Thunderbolt or USB port to connect a second hard drive the quick and easy way.
Most of today’s external peripherals don’t even require the driver software that Mac old-timers remember with such hatred. You simply plug in a Thunderbolt or USB device, and it works. You can move your external drive between Macs with a minimum of fuss and bother. A typical external USB 3.0 hard drive that holds 1TB costs less than $60.
An external drive can do anything that your internal drive can do. You can boot from it, for example, or install a different version of macOS (great for beta testers like me). External optical drives work the same way as internal models. Apple sells a USB SuperDrive optical drive for the MacBook for about $80.
A MacBook can carry two kinds of high-speed ports, either of which is a good match for connecting any external device:
USB 2.0/3.0/C: The USB standard is popular because it’s just as common in the PC world as it is in the Mac world. (Most PCs don’t have Thunderbolt ports.) Your MacBook offers a USB-C port (which acts as a USB 3.0 port with the proper connector but can also charge the laptop), whereas older models usually carry at least two USB 2.0 or 3.0 ports. Hardware manufacturers can make one USB device that works on both types of computers.
Naturally, USB-C and USB 3.0 offers faster data transfer speeds than the older USB 2.0 standard. So if your MacBook model sports USB 3.0 or USB-C ports, you should buy only USB 3.0 external hard drives, DVD recorders, or flash drives. ’Nuff said.
With Thunderbolt or USB, you can install an external hard drive without opening your laptop’s case. With your MacBook turned on, follow these steps:
Plug the external drive into a convenient surge protector or uninterruptible power supply (if necessary).
Note that some external devices are bus-powered, meaning that they don’t need a separate power supply. These devices draw their power directly from the port — but will also drain your MacBook’s battery faster.
If the drive is unformatted or formatted for use in Windows, partition and format the external drive.
The drive comes with instructions or software for you to do this. Don’t worry — your external drive comes from the factory empty, and you won’t damage anything by formatting it. Partitioning divides the new drive into one or more volumes.
If the drive comes preformatted for use with a Windows PC, I strongly suggest reformatting it for use with macOS. Doing so will result in faster performance and more efficient use of space.
After the drive is formatted and partitioned, the volumes you’ve created immediately appear on the desktop. Shazam!
If you decide that you must upgrade your existing internal drive — or if your internal drive fails and needs to be replaced — you should always take your MacBook to an authorized Apple service center and allow the techs there to sell you a drive and make the swap. Here are four darned good reasons why:
The USB toys I cover in this section might add a cable or two to your collection at the side of your road warrior, but they’re well worth the investment. And they can really revolutionize how you look at technologies such as television, digital audio, and computer gaming.
If you’re ready to take a shot at the enemies — whether they be Nazi soldiers, chattering aliens, or the latest jet fighters — you’ll likely find your keyboard and mouse somewhat lacking. (And if that enemy happens to be a friend of yours playing across the Internet, you’ll be ruthlessly mocked while you fumble for the right key combination.) Instead, pick up either a USB joystick (for flying games) or a gamepad (for arcade and first-person shooting games).
For armchair directors, specialized USB digital video controllers make editing easier. The Shuttle Xpress from Contour Design (https://www.contourdesign.com
) provides a five-button jog control that can be configured to match any DV editor. For $60, you get the same type of editing controller as dedicated video-editing stations that cost several thousand dollars.
Ready to put GarageBand to the test with your favorite version of “Chopsticks”? You’ll need a USB piano keyboard. I recommend the Keystation 49 MK3 from M-Audio (https://m-audio.com
), which retails for a mere $100. It provides 49 keys and uses a USB connection.