Any professional photographer knows that the most important first step in photography is learning the camera so thoroughly that he or she can operate it in the dark or blindfolded. Only then can camera adjustments be made instinctively and confidently without missing a shot.

You may not think that you need to know your camera that well, but the point is well taken. Knowing your camera inside and out not only instills confidence, but it also allows you to react quickly and get those important shots that you would otherwise miss or that you wish had been better.

Figure 1.1. EOS 30D front camera controls

Figure 1.2. EOS 30D top camera controls

Figure 1.3. Lens controls

Because of the design, the EOS 30D makes mastering the camera easy and fun. Easy-to-access body controls translate into ease of use, while the full-function features offer exceptional creative control. And internally, Canon's high-resolution CMOS (complementary metal oxide semiconductor) sensor dependably delivers vivid, rich, and crisp images, especially at full resolution.

The following sections help you achieve the goal of mastering the EOS 30D. And remember that the more you use the camera, the faster you'll master it.

Figure 1.4. EOS 30D bottom camera controls

Figure 1.5. EOS 30D CompactFlash compartment

Figure 1.6. EOS 30D rear camera controls

Viewfinder display

On the EOS 30D, the pentaprism viewfinder displays approximately 95 percent of the vertical and horizontal coverage. In addition to displaying the scene you're shooting, the viewfinder displays the essential shooting information you need.

Figure 1.7. EOS 30D LCD panel

Auto Focus (AF) points are etched in the focusing screen. If you manually change AF points, the viewfinder highlights AF points as you rotate the Multi-controller. The selected AF points are displayed in red on the focusing screen when you press the shutter button halfway down. The spot metering circle is etched in the center of the matte focusing screen.

To ensure that the viewfinder image and focusing screen elements are adjusted for your vision, you can adjust the diopter from −3 to +1 diopter. Simply rotate the diopter control, located to the right of the viewfinder eyecup, clockwise or counterclockwise until the AF points shown in the viewfinder are sharp.

Figure 1.8. EOS 30D viewfinder display

For quick shots, the programmed Basic Zone modes and Full Auto mode are convenient and easy to use. In the programmed modes, the camera automatically sets all the settings, but you can provide some control over the way the picture looks by specifying the type scene you're shooting.

Basic Zone modes

The Basic Zone modes are quick and easy to use because you set the camera to the type scene that you're shooting, and the camera automatically sets the exposure for you.

For example, if you want a softly blurred background for a portrait, you can select Portrait mode and the camera sets a wide aperture (f-stop), which allows the subject in the foreground to be sharp, but the background blurred.

In Basic Zone modes, the camera automatically sets the Image quality to JPEG, although you can select the level of JPEG quality. The camera also automatically selects the following settings in all Basic Zone modes:

• Automatic ISO selection

• sRGB color space

• Auto white balance

• Evaluative metering

• Auto flash depending on the light.

Full Auto mode

In Full Auto mode, the camera automatically sets the exposure. Because the camera does everything, this is a good mode to use for quick snapshots. However, this is not always true because the camera defaults to using the flash, even in scenes where you may not want to use the flash. And in low-light scenes, the camera may select high ISO that can introduce digital noise in the image. In Full Auto mode, the camera sets AI (Focus AF) with automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, Single-shot (one-image-at-a-time) drive mode, and Standard Picture Style.

Figure 1.9. This image was taken in Full Auto mode. The camera's automatic exposure was ISO 100, f/16 at 1/160 sec.

Portrait mode

In Portrait mode, the EOS 30D sets a wide aperture (small f-stop number) that makes the subject stand out against a softly blurred background. The EOS 30D also switches to Portrait Picture Style to enhance the subject's skin tones. This mode works well for quick portraits in good light. In low-light scenes, the camera automatically fires the flash, which may or may not be the effect you want in the portrait. In Portrait mode, the camera automatically selects One-shot autofocus and automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, and Low-speed continuous drive mode at 3 fps.

Figure 1.10. This image was taken in Portrait mode. The camera's automatic exposure was ISO 100, f/4, 1/1000 sec.

As with other programmed modes, you can use scene modes for a variety of other types of subjects. For example, Portrait mode works well for nature and still-life photos indoors and outdoors. If the camera detects insufficient light, the flash fires automatically.

Landscape mode

In Landscape mode, the EOS 30D chooses a narrow aperture to ensure that both background and foreground elements are sharp and that the fastest shutter speed possible, depending on the amount of light in the scene, is used. This mode works well not only for landscapes, but also cityscapes, portraits of large groups of people, and for some tabletop photography such as architectural models.

Figure 1.11. This image was taken in Landscape mode. The camera's automatic exposure was ISO 100, f/10 at 1/400 sec.

In lower light, the camera uses slower shutter speeds to maintain a narrow aperture for good depth of field, and it may increase the ISO. As the light fades, watch the viewfinder or LCD panel to monitor the shutter speed and ISO. If the shutter speed is 1/30 second or slower, or if you're using a telephoto lens, be sure to steady the camera on a solid surface or use a tripod. In Landscape mode, the camera automatically sets One-shot autofocus with automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, Single-shot drive mode, Flash-off mode, and Landscape Picture Style

Close-up mode

In Close-up mode, the EOS 30D allows a close focusing distance and provides the same basic results as Portrait mode but chooses one-shot drive mode rather than low-speed continuous drive mode. You can enhance the close-up effect of a close-up image further by using a macro lens. If you're using a zoom lens, zoom to the telephoto end of the lens.

All lenses have a minimum focusing distance that varies by lens. For the best images, focus at the lens's minimum focusing distance. In Close-up mode, the camera automatically sets One-shot autofocus with automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, Single-shot drive mode, Automatic flash with the option to turn on red-eye reduction, and Standard Picture Style.

Figure 1.12. This image was taken in Close-up mode. The camera's automatic settings were ISO 100, f/5.6 at 1/1600 sec.

Sports mode

In Sports mode, the EOS 30D freezes subject motion by setting a fast shutter speed. While this mode is designed for action and sports photography, you can use it in any scene where you want to suspend motion such as the motion of a moving child or a pet. In addition to sports, this can be a useful mode for shooting news events, weddings and receptions, and some editorial assignments with a telephoto lens.

Figure 1.13. This image was taken in Sports mode. The camera's automatic settings were ISO 400, f/7.1 at 1/1600 sec.

In this mode, the EOS 30D automatically focuses on the subject and tracks the -subject's movement until good focus is achieved, which is confirmed with a low beep. If you continue to hold the shutter button down, the camera maintains focus for -continuous shooting. In Sports mode, the -camera automatically sets AI Servo autofocus with automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, High-speed continuous drive mode at 5 fps, Flash off, and Standard Picture Style.

Night Portrait mode

In Night Portrait mode, the EOS 30D uses the flash to correctly expose the person combined with a slow synch speed to correctly expose the background. With a longer exposure such as this, the subject should remain still during the entire exposure to avoid blur. Be sure to use a tripod or set the camera on a solid surface to take night portraits.

This mode is best used when people are in the picture rather than for general night shots because the camera blurs the background somewhat as it does in Portrait mode. For night scenes without people, use Landscape mode and a tripod. In Night Portrait mode, the camera automatically sets One-shot autofocus with automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, Single-shot drive mode, automatic flash with the ability to turn on red-eye reduction, and Standard Picture Style.

Flash Off mode

In Flash Off mode, the EOS 30D does not fire the built-in flash or an external Canon Speedlite regardless of how low the scene light is. In low-light scenes using Flash Off mode, be sure to use a tripod. This is the mode to use in scenes where flash is -prohibited and when the subject is out of range of flash coverage. In Flash Off mode, the camera automatically sets AI focus AF with automatic auto-focus point (AF) selection, single-shot.

Creative Zone modes

Creative Zone modes offer automatic, semiautomatic, or manual control over some or all exposure settings. This zone includes two automatic modes, Program AE and A-DEP, which offer both automation and creative opportunities. The other three Creative Zone modes, Aperture-priority AE, TV Shutter-priority AE, and Manual exposure mode, put full or partial creative control in your hands.

Program AE mode

Program AE mode, shown as P on the Mode dial, is a fully automatic but shiftable mode. When you shift the aperture or shutter speed, the camera automatically adjusts the other setting (aperture or shutter speed) to maintain the same or equivalent exposure.

Note

To learn about exposures and maintaining the same, or equivalent, exposure, see Chapter 3.

This mode allows you to control depth of field and/or shutter speed with a minimum of manual adjustments. For example, if the camera sets the aperture at f/8, but you want to soften background using a wide aperture. By holding down the shutter button halfway and turning the Main dial, you can shift the programmed exposure settings, and use a wide aperture, such as f/4.0 or f/2.8, while the camera automatically adjusts shutter speed to maintain the same exposure value.

You cannot shift the program if you are using a flash. And, the camera automatically cancels program shifts and reverts to the automatic settings after you take a picture.

Figure 1.14. This image was taken in Program AE mode. The camera's automatic settings were ISO 100, f/4.0 at 1/1000 sec.

A-DEP mode

A-DEP, or Automatic Depth of Field, mode automatically sets the exposure to achieve the optimum depth of field (range of sharpness) between near and far subjects. This is a handy mode for photos where subjects are positioned at staggered distances: One subject is close to the camera, and the other subjects are each at successively farther -distances from the camera. A-DEP mode automatically detects near and far subject distances, and sets the aperture to achieve extensive depth of field to keep all subjects in sharp focus.

Figure 1.15. This image was taken in A-DEP mode. The camera's automatic settings were ISO 100, f/54.0 at 1/800 sec.

In A-DEP mode, you can select all settings except AF points and autofocus mode, which is automatically set to one-shot. The camera does not automatically switch to AI Servo or AI Focus if the subjects move.

Note

You can learn more about depth of field in Chapter 3.

To use A-DEP mode, first make sure the lens is set to AF because A-DEP doesn't work with the lens set to manual focus. Turn the Mode dial to A-DEP. Pressing the shutter button halfway down chooses the AF points.

You can also press the depth-of-field preview button on the front of the camera for a preview of the depth of field.

Aperture-priority AE mode

Aperture-priority AE mode, shown on the camera Mode dial as Av, allows you to set the aperture (f-stop), while the camera automatically chooses the appropriate shutter speed.

Figure 1.16. This image was taken in Aperture-priority AE mode. The exposure was ISO 100, f/9, 1/400 sec.

Note

To learn about aperture, see Chapter 3.

Tip

You can preview the depth of field for an image by pressing the depth-of-field preview button on the front of the camera. When you press the button, the lens diaphragm closes to the aperture you've set so you can see the range of acceptable focus.

For most day-to-day shooting, you'll care most about your ability to control the depth of field, and that makes Aperture-priority AE mode the mode of choice for most photographers.

To use Aperture-priority mode, turn the Mode dial to Av. Aperture values are displayed in the viewfinder in 1/3-stop increments. Turn the Main dial to set the aperture. If "30" blinks in the viewfinder, the image will be underexposed. If "8000" blinks, the image will be overexposed.

Shutter-priority AE mode

Shutter-priority AE mode, shown as Tv on the Mode dial, allows you to set the shutter speed. In this mode, you set the shutter speed, and the camera automatically chooses an appropriate aperture. The shutter speeds that you can choose from and freeze subject action depend on the light in the scene. In low-light scenes without a flash, you may not be able to get a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action.

Figure 1.17. This picture was taken in Shutter-priority AE mode. The exposure was ISO 100, f/22, 1/30 sec.

The EOS 30D features an electronic, focal-plane shutter with speeds from 1/8000 to 30 sec. in 1/3- and 1/2-stop increments, and a Bulb setting, a setting where the shutter remains open until you release the shutter button. Flash sync speed for most Speedlites and studio strobes is 1/125 sec. or slower, although high-speed sync (FP flash) is available for sync speeds faster than 1/250 sec. The sync speed for non-Canon flash units is 1/250 sec. or slower.

Note

To learn about shutter speeds, see Chapter 3.

Advantages of Program AE Mode

For any photographer who likes control and the convenience of some automation, Program AE mode is worth considering. Program AE gives you more control than Full Auto mode. Below are the settings that you can control in Program AE mode that you cannot control in Full Auto mode.

• Shooting settings. AF mode and AF point selection, drive mode, ISO, metering mode, program shift, exposure compensation, AEB, AE lock, depth-of-field preview, clear all camera settings, Custom Function and Clear All Custom Functions, and sensor cleaning.

• Built-in flash settings. Flash on/off, FE lock, flash exposure compensation.

• EX-series Speedlite settings. Manual/stroboscopic flash, high-speed sync (FP flash), FE lock, flash ration control, flash exposure compensation, FEB, second-curtain sync, and modeling flash.

• Image-recording settings. RAW, RAW+JPEG Large selection, choice of Picture Styles, color space, white balance, custom white balance, white balance correction, white balance bracketing, and color temperature setting.

To use Shutter-priority AE mode, turn the Mode dial to Tv. Then turn the Main dial to the shutter speed that you want. Time values are shown in the viewfinder in 1/3-stop increments. The camera sets the aperture automatically.

Manual mode

Manual mode, as the name implies, allows you to set both the aperture and the shutter speed based on the light meter reading displayed in the viewfinder. Because it takes more time to set both the aperture and shutter speed, Manual mode is useful in scenes where you want to intentionally overexpose or underexpose the image. Otherwise, the semi-automation of Tv and Av modes is preferred.

However, Manual mode is helpful in difficult lighting situations when you want to override the automatic settings the camera sets in either Av Aperture-priority AE or Tv Shutter-priority AE modes and in situations where you want consistent exposures across a series of photos, such as for a panoramic series.

To use Manual mode, turn the Mode dial to M. Set the Power/Quick Control dial to the uppermost position. Turn the Main dial to set the shutter speed, and then turn the Quick Control dial to set the aperture you want. Then press the shutter halfway to meter the subject, and rotate the Quick Control dial and/or Main dial until the indicator under the exposure level meter in the viewfinder is in the center.

To make a good exposure, the camera has to know the amount of light that illuminates the subject or scene. To determine this, the camera's light meter measures the amount of light in the scene, and, based on the ISO, the camera calculates the aperture and shutter speed combinations required to make the standard exposure. On the EOS 30D, Canon's 35-zone through-the-lens (TTL) Evaluative metering is linked to the currently selected AF point. The EOS 30D offers four metering modes that are differentiated by how much of the scene the meter uses to take the reading:

Although you cannot manually switch among metering modes in Basic Zone modes, you can set the metering modes in all of the Creative Zone modes. In Basic Zone modes, the EOS 30D always uses Evaluative metering.

To set the EOS 30D to a metering mode, press the Metering mode button on the top of the camera, and rotate the Main dial until the icon for the metering mode you want appears in the LCD panel. The Partial metering mode icon is an empty circle. The Evaluative metering icon is a black dot in a partial circle, the Spot metering icon is a black dot in a rectangle, and the Center-weighted Averaging metering icon is an empty rectangle. The next sections explain these modes in more detail.

Evaluative metering

Evaluative metering, the default metering mode on the EOS 30D, analyzes light from the entire viewfinder area to calculate exposure. Canon's 35-zone Evaluative metering system is linked to the autofocus system. The meter analyzes the point of focus and automatically applies compensation if surrounding areas are much lighter or darker than the point of focus. To determine exposure, the camera analyzes subject position, brightness, background, front lighting, and backlighting to determine the proper exposure.

Figure 1.18. This picture was taken using Evaluative metering.

Evaluative metering produces excellent exposures in average scenes that include an average distribution of light, medium, and dark tones, and it functions well even in backlit conditions. However, in scenes where there is a large expanse of predominately light or dark areas, the metering averages the tones to middle gray, thereby rendering snow scenes and large expanses of dark water as gray. In these situations, you can use exposure compensation to increase or decrease exposure by one to two stops for scenes with predominately light or dark tones, respectively.

Partial metering

Partial metering meters from the centermost 9 percent of the viewfinder. Partial metering is handy in backlit or side lit scenes where you want to ensure that the main subject is properly exposed, although spot metering is also a good option in those types of scenes.

Figure 1.19. This picture was taken using Partial metering.

Spot metering

The Spot metering mode evaluates the subject using the centermost 3.5 percent of the view-finder area. This is a very precise metering method that is best used when exposure for a -specific area of the subject or scene is critical. In general shooting situations where specific expo-sure is not critical, Spot metering does not consider the overall scene, and the results may not be what you want.

Figure 1.20. This picture was taken using Spot metering.

Center-weighted average metering

Center-weighted average metering gives more weight to the area of the scene within the center area of the viewfinder. The center area encompasses a slightly larger area than used with Partial metering. Then the camera averages the reading for the entire scene.

Figure 1.21. This picture was taken using Center-weighted average metering.

In scenes with large expanses of white or dark areas, you can use exposure compensation to override the camera's default exposure. This is convenient for snowscapes and ocean and lake scenes. Exposure compensation resets the camera's standard exposure setting by the amount of compensation (in partial or whole f-stops) that you choose.

For example, if you're taking a picture of a snow scene, setting positive exposure compensation adds light to produce white snow instead of gray. In this situation, a positive compensation of +1 to +2 f-stops does the trick.

Conversely in scenes with predominately dark tones, you can set a negative exposure compensation of −1 to −2 to get true dark tones. Exposure compensation is also useful when you want to maintain detail in highlight areas other than specular highlights.

Exposure compensation is set in 1/3-stop increments up to +/−2 stops. Whatever exposure compensation amount you set is used until you change the exposure back to standard exposure indicated by the exposure level indicator in the viewfinder.

You can set exposure compensation by following these steps:

With Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB), you can take three pictures at three different exposures: one picture at the standard exposure, one picture at an increased (lighter) exposure, and another picture at a decreased (darker) exposure. AEB, a favorite technique of film photographers for years, is a way to ensure that at least one exposure in a series of three images is acceptable. And with the advent of digital photography, AEB is a way to capture a high-dynamic range scene that exceeds the dynamic range of the sensor. By capturing two or more exposures metered for highlights, midtones, and shadows, photographers can later composite the exposures in Photoshop to maintain highlight detail, clean shadow detail, and properly exposed midtones.

You can set AEB in 1/3-stop increments up to +/−2 stops for three successive exposures. AEB is extremely useful for getting the best exposure in tricky lighting.

While exposure bracketing isn't necessary in all scenes, it's a good technique to use in scenes that are difficult to set up or that can't be reproduced and in scenes with contrasty lighting, such as a landscape with a dark foreground and much lighter sky area. AEB can't be used with the flash or when the shutter is set to Bulb.

Here's how AEB works in the different drive modes:

In either case, the camera takes the standard exposure first, the decreased exposure second, and then the increased exposure.

AEB settings are temporary. If you change lenses, replace the CF card or battery, or turn off the camera, the AEB settings are cancelled. You can also use AEB in combination with exposure compensation.

Table 1.2 shows examples of AEB. Bracketing here is set in 1-stop increments.

On the EOS 30D, you can set AEB by following these steps:

To cancel AEB, you can repeat Steps 1 and 2, and then rotate the Quick Control dial until the indicators move back to the middle mark on the exposure level indicator. Then press the Set button. Or just turn the camera off and back on again.

With the EOS 30D, the exposure and the focus are locked simultaneously by pressing the shutter button halfway down. However, there are times when you don't want to meter on the same area where you set the focus. For example, if a subject is lit by a spotlight, the brightest light may fall on the subject's cheek or nose. Metering and setting the exposure for the brightest area maintains detail in the brightest area, but that isn't where you want the focus. You want to focus on the subject's eyes. In short, you have to de-couple the autofocusing from the metering, and you can do this by using auto-exposure or AE lock.

However, there are a couple of situations worth noting with AE lock:

You can set AE lock by following these steps:

As old as cameras themselves, Bulb exposure allows the shutter to remain open as long as the shutter button is completely depressed. Using Bulb, you can make pictures of fireworks, star trails, and other extremely low-light scenes.

In long exposures, digital noise can become more obvious. You can set custom function 2 (C.Fn-02, Long exp. Noise reduction) to Auto or On to reduce noise in long exposures. You should also use a remote control such as Remote Switch RS-80N3 or Timer Remote Controller TC-80N3 to reduce the possibility for camera movement during bulb exposures.

To set Bulb exposure, follow these steps:

Getting an accurate exposure is critical to getting a good image, but you may be wondering how you can judge whether an image is accurately exposed at the time you take the picture. On the EOS 30D, you can evaluate the exposure immediately after you take the picture by looking at the image histogram.

If you're new to digital photography, the concept of a histogram may also be new. A histogram is a bar graph that shows grayscale brightness values in the image from black (level 0) to white (level 255) along the bottom. The vertical axis displays the number of pixels at each location.

Naturally, some scenes cause a distribution of values that are weighted more toward one side of the scale or the other. For example, in scenes that have predominately light tones, the pixels are weighted toward the right side of the histogram. But in average scenes, the goal of good exposure is to have the values, or tones, with a fairly even distribution across the entire graph and, in most cases, to avoid having pixels crowded against the far left or right side of the graph.

Figure 1.22. The tones in this image are primarily dark as shown by the weighting of pixels to the left side of the histogram.

Figure 1.23. Despite the bright tones in the foreground in this image, the distribution of tonal values is relatively even across the histogram.

Figure 1.24. The tones in this image are primarily light as shown by the weighting of pixels to the right side of the histogram.

It is important to know that half of the tonal values in an image are contained in the first f-stop of bright tones. In an image with a six-stop dynamic range (12-bits per channel per pixel for a possible 4,096 levels in each channel), the first f-stop contains 2,048 levels while the second f-stop contains 1,024 levels, the third f-stop contains 512 levels, the fourth f-stop contains 256 levels, the fifth f-stop contains 128 levels, and the sixth f-stop, the darkest shadows, contains only 64 levels.

This means that with RAW images, you should expose toward the right side of the histogram to get the maximum levels from a capture. In other words, check the histogram to ensure that the exposure maintains highlight detail (pixels should not be slammed against the right side of the graph), but also to ensure that there is no empty space between the right edge of the histogram and where the pixels begin.

During image playback, you can press the Info button twice to display the image with a histogram. This display also has a highlight alert that flashes to show areas of the image that are overexposed (or areas that have no detail in the highlights). Although the histogram is based on the JPEG image rather than RAW, if you're shooting RAW capture, you can evaluate the exposure and retake the picture if the highlights are blown or shadow areas are solid black (the pixels are pushed against the left side of the scale).

You can set the 30D to display either Brightness (or luminance) or RGB color levels during image playback.

To set the type of histogram displayed, follow these steps:

The success of a picture depends as much on crisp focus as it does on good exposure. In addition to keeping the camera steady, getting tack-sharp focus depends on three factors: the resolving power of the lens (or its ability to render fine details sharply), the resolution of the image sensor, and the resolution of the printer (if you print the image).

For sharp focus in quick shooting situations, autofocus speed is equally important. Autofocus speed depends on factors such as the size of the lens and the speed of the lens focusing motor, the speed of the autofocus sensor in the camera, and how easy or difficult the subject is to focus on.

Three AF modes are available: One-Shot AF for still subjects, AI Servo AF for moving subjects, and AI Focus AF that switches from One-Shot AF to AI Servo AF if the subject begins to move. For most shooting situations, the EOS 30D's wide-area AI (artificial intelligence) autofocus (AF) system — a system tied closely to the camera's drive modes — provides acceptable results.

In Basic Zone modes, the camera automatically chooses the AF mode and the AF point or points. You can choose the AF mode in all Creative Zone modes except A-DEP, where the AF mode is set to one-shot and AF points are automatically selected.

Table 1.4 shows which mode is selected in each drive and exposure mode.

To set the AF mode, follow these steps:

The EOS 30D uses a wide-area artificial intelligence (AI) Auto Focus (AF) system with 9 autofocus (AF) points. An AF point determines the area of the subject that is in sharpest focus. In Basic Zone modes, the camera automatically selects the autofocus point or points. In Creative Zone modes except A-DEP, you can select the autofocus point. When no focus point is selected, the camera automatically determines the focus point by analyzing the scene and determining which AF point is over the closest part of the subject. The camera shows the selected AF point in red in the viewfinder.

Although wide-area AI Focus AF is handy, it weights focus to the part of the subject that is nearest the lens. This area of the subject may or may not be what you want in sharpest focus. For example, in a close-up portrait, the closest area the subject to the lens may be the nose, but you want to focus on the eyes. You can shift your position slightly to try to force the camera to reset focus on the eyes, or you can switch to a Creative Zone mode (except A-DEP) and set the focus point manually — the most reliable way to ensure accurate focus on the part of the subject that you want rendered in sharpest focus.

Figure 1.25. Nine autofocus points, shown in the viewfinder, are selectable in Creative Zone modes except A-DEP mode.

The autofocus system is reliable, but it can fail if subjects are in low light, if subjects are low in contrast or monotone in color, or when other objects overlap the main subject. For this reason, be sure to confirm in the LCD that the camera selected the best autofocus point. If you still can't get sharp focus, you can switch the lens to manual focus (MF) and turn the focusing ring manually to focus on low-contrast, dim, or monotone subjects.

In One-Shot AF, you cannot release the shutter until focus is established. In AI Servo AF, you can release the shutter whether or not the subject is in focus because the focus subsequently catches up with the subject's movement.

To manually select the AF point, follow these steps:

The ability to see the picture immediately after you take it is one of the primary benefits of using digital photography. On the EOS 30D, you can not only view images after you take them, but you can also magnify images to verify that the focus is sharp, display multiple images stored on the memory card, display the image with a histogram showing the tonal distribution, display images as a slideshow, and display the image along with the exposure settings.

The first image playback that you see is right after you take a picture, when it is displayed on the LCD. The default setting is 2 seconds, which is hardly enough time to move the camera from your eye in time to catch the image preview. The display time is intentionally set to a short amount of time to maximize battery life, but given the excellent performance of the battery, a longer display time of 4 to 8 seconds is more useful. You can change the display time on the Playback menu. You also can select the Hold option for review that displays the image until you press the Shutter button to dismiss it.

To change the initial image playback review time, follow these steps:

The following sections cover viewing options.

Single-image playback

In Single-image playback, the EOS 30D displays one image at a time on the LCD. If you have multiple pictures on the CF card, you can use the Main dial or the Quick Control dial to move forward and backward through the images.

Playback begins with the most recent image displayed on the LCD. You also can turn either dial counterclockwise to begin viewing the first image on the CF card.

Figure 1.26. This diagram shows the information that is shown in single-image mode by pressing the Info button twice.

In this mode, you also can set how little or how much information about the image is displayed along with the image on the LCD. You have three display options:

• Single-image display with no shooting or exposure information.

• Single-image display with basic information. This provides the file number, shutter speed setting, aperture, and image number on the CF card as an overlay on the image preview. Press the Info button once to get this display.

• Shooting information displays the file number, histogram, color space, color temperature setting, exposure settings, metering mode, mode setting, image quality, and other information. In addition, any overexposed areas of the image blink, alerting you that you may want to reshoot using a negative exposure compensation to avoid blowing out detail in the highlight areas. If AF points are set to Display, the AF point that achieved focus in One-Shot AF mode is displayed, or the AF points in AI Servo AF mode are displayed. Press the Info button twice to display full exposure, shooting information, and the histogram.

Tip

You can set the AF points to display by pressing the Menu button, navigating to the Playback (blue) menu, highlighting AF points, and then choosing Display. Then press the Set button to confirm your selection.

Erasing images is a fine advantage only when you know without a doubt that you don't want the image you're deleting. From experience, however, I know that some images that appear to be mediocre on the LCD often can be salvaged with some judicious image editing on the computer. For that reason, erase images with due caution.

If you want to delete an image, follow these steps:

On the other end of the spectrum from erasing images is the ability to ensure that images you want to keep do not get accidentally deleted. When you have that perfect or once-in-a-lifetime shot, apply protection to it so you can be sure it doesn't get erased.

Setting protection means that no one can erase the image when using the Erase or Erase All options.

You can protect an image by following these steps:

Using either the built-in or a Canon EX-series Speedlite, the EOS 30D allows you to make flash images that look more natural than previously possible, and the camera and Speedlite controls allow you to control flash exposure more precisely. In addition, the EOS 30D features a PC sync terminal so that you can use studio strobes with the camera, and the EOS 30D is a standout performer in studio conditions.

The EOS 30D features E-TTL II autoflash that uses evaluative flash metering and preflash for calculating exposure in both automatic and flash exposure compensation modes. The built-in flash has a guide number of 13, which means the flash works at approximately 3.3' at 17 mm and 2.3' at 85 mm using an ISO 100 setting.

The built-in flash recycle time is approximately 3 seconds. The maximum flash sync speed is 1/250 second, which the camera sets automatically, although in some exposure modes, you (or the camera in automatic modes) can set a slower shutter speed. Flash exposure compensation is +/−2 stops in 1/3 or 1/2-stop increments.

Figure 1.27. This image was taken using the automatic flash exposure.

Tables 1.5 and 1.6 describe the behavior of the built-in flash and the options in various exposure modes, the ranges of the flash, and flash sync speed and aperture settings. Table 1.7 describes using the built-in flash in Creative Zone modes and in Basic Zone exposure modes that automatically activate the flash.

Figure 1.28. This image was taken using the flash exposure compensation of −1 stop.

Custom functions enable you to customize camera controls and operation to better suit your shooting style and to save you time. After you set a custom function option, it remains in effect until you change it. Some custom functions are exceptionally handy while others are specific to different situations. For example, if you grow weary of pressing the AF Point Selection button and trying to simultaneously adjust the Multi-controller, then by all means, check out Custom Function 13, where you can assign AF point selection to the Quick Control dial to save time and make your selection more quickly than the standard method.

The EOS 30D offers 19 Custom Functions. Some custom functions are more broadly useful than others, and some are useful for specific shooting specialty areas. Be sure to remember how you have set the custom functions because some options change the behavior of the camera and, in some cases, the lens controls.

To set a Custom Function, follow these steps: