Choose Backup Hardware

You’re almost certainly going to need one or more external hard drives for your backups. (Even if you use a Time Capsule, other network storage, or a cloud backup service, you’ll need a separate external hard drive at least to store a bootable duplicate.) You can find hard drives with every imaginable combination of capacity, speed, interface, and case design—and the selection changes constantly.

In this chapter, I start by walking you through the calculations of how much storage capacity you’ll need for backups (see Decide on Capacity). Then, in Decide on a Storage Configuration, I help you understand whether you should be looking for standalone hard drives, a RAID or other multi-drive enclosure, a NAS or similar network storage device, or drives that you’ll hook up to another computer on your network that will function as a backup server.

I end the chapter with a few thoughts on Hardware You Should Probably Avoid.

Decide on Capacity

The most important consideration in a backup drive, by far, is its capacity—how many gigabytes or terabytes of data it will hold. In general, the bigger, the better. In fact, I could simply recommend, as a rule of thumb, that you get the largest hard drive you can afford.

However, if you can’t afford an especially large drive, or if the amount of data you have to back up is exceptionally large, you may want more guidance. So, figure out the size you’ll need for duplicates, then the size you’ll need for versioned backups, and finally the total size to look for.

Duplicate Size

You’ll store, on your external hard drive (or a partition thereof), an exact, bootable copy of your Mac’s regular startup volume. (If you use a Time Capsule, NAS, or other network storage destination that can’t store bootable duplicates, you’ll need an entirely separate drive for this purpose.) But the volume that stores your duplicate needs to be only as large as the amount of data on your startup volume, not necessarily the whole disk. For example, if your Mac came with 1 TB of storage but you’ve filled up only 500 GB of that space, you can fit a duplicate on a 500 GB disk or partition. (If you’re creating Bootable Duplicates with Versioning, you’ll need to add more space to accommodate the older versions.)

Over time, though, you’ll add more files to your Mac, so if you cut it that close, you’ll soon outgrow your backup drive. Therefore, I suggest that you allot at least one and a half times the amount of space currently occupied on your startup volume for a duplicate. So, if you have 500 GB of data on your startup volume, you want at least 750 GB for the duplicate. More space is perfectly fine, to give you even more room to grow.

To find out how much space on your startup volume is being used, select the your disk’s icon in the sidebar of any Finder window. Then press ⌘-I to display the Info window (Figure 1). The number after “Used” is the amount of space currently occupied on the disk.

Figure 1: To see how much space is occupied on a disk, select it, press ⌘-I, and look at the number after “Used.”
Figure 1: To see how much space is occupied on a disk, select it, press ⌘-I, and look at the number after “Used.”

If you choose to make duplicates of non-startup volumes (such as external disks used for supplemental storage; see Duplicates of Non-Boot Volumes), follow the same procedure. You can either add the figures and buy a single huge drive (but see also Consider RAIDs and RAID-Like Tech) or buy separate backup drives for each one.

Versioned Backup Size

Time Machine requires that your destination volume have, as a bare minimum, 1.2 times the space occupied by the data you’re backing up. (That gives some extra space to store multiple versions of at least some files.) So, as a first pass, multiply the “Used” value you saw in the Get Info window by 1.2 to find out the smallest partition size Time Machine can use. (If you plan to back up additional disks, be sure to factor in their sizes before multiplying by 1.2.)

I must emphasize that 1.2 times is an absolute rock-bottom minimum. You’ll be far better off setting aside 1.5, 2, or even 3 times the amount of space used on your disk for backups. The reason is simple: the more space Time Machine has to work with on the destination drive, the more backups it can store—and the farther back in time you can reach when you restore data.

What if you’re not using Time Machine? Well, the general principle still holds that you’ll want more free space than is currently occupied on your drive, with a bit of a cushion. But a twist is that most other backup software offers compression, deduplication, and/or delta encoding, all of which make your files take up less space on the backup drive than they otherwise would. So, for most people, having free space equal to 1.5 times the amount of data you want to back up should be adequate. But, again, more space is always better.

Total Size

Unless you’re using a Time Capsule or other network storage device, in which you’ll have a separate drive just for a duplicate, your duplicate and versioned backups will ideally live on the same physical disk, so you must now add those two numbers together. For example, if you have 500 GB worth of data, you might choose to allot 750 GB for a duplicate and another 750 GB for versioned backups, bringing the total to a tidy 1.5 TB. That means you should look for a 1.5 TB or larger-capacity drive. But also consider the next-larger size, which is typically 2 TB. If the cost difference is small, as it probably will be, you’ll be glad for that extra capacity later on.

You can use a single drive to back up more than one Mac (as I discuss later, in Choose Local or Network Backups and, more specifically—in the context of Time Machine—in Use a Single Backup Disk with Multiple Macs). And if you have a few Macs, each with only a modest amount of data to back up, combining backups on a single drive makes sense. Be sure to calculate the space needed (for both duplicates and versioned backups) for all the Macs you intend to back up and add them together before deciding which drive to buy.

Now that you have a total, keep that number handy as you go through the rest of the chapter. If you’re looking at a very large number for your total storage capacity—that is, more than you can fit on even the largest hard drive you can find—don’t panic. We’ll address that issue shortly.

Decide on a Storage Configuration

Back in Choose Local or Network Backups, you decided whether you’ll attach your backup storage directly to your Mac, access it over your network, or do both. Now that you also know how much storage space you’ll need, you have additional decisions to make:

If you already know your area of interest, use the links above to jump right to a topic; otherwise, feel free to read through them all in turn.

Decide How Many Drives to Buy

Regardless of whether you plan to do your backups locally or over a network, you’ll need at least one external hard drive, because that’s necessary for a bootable duplicate.

A single, sufficiently large drive can be divided into two partitions—one for your duplicate and the other for versioned backups. So, assuming you have a modest amount of data, a single hard drive could meet all your backup needs. However, that drive could break down or get stolen, leaving you with no backups. So for extra safety, I suggest having a secondary backup of some sort that can be kept in another location, as I describe in Store an Extra Backup Offsite.

One way to get a secondary backup is to use an internet backup service. If that’s the way you choose to go, you can indeed get by with a single external drive and not significantly compromise your data safety.

Another option is to buy a second drive and then switch between the two drives every so often, moving one of them offsite each time. In that case, the optimal number of hard drives is two. Of course, you can do lots of useful things with a hard drive besides storing backups, so having a second one, on general principle, is not a terrible idea.

If you want to be extraordinarily cautious, or if you’re paranoid, or if you’ve had bad experiences with hard drive failures, then you could go a step further and get three hard drives. (I think three is excessive for most people these days.)

But before you hand over your credit card, you might want to skim through the rest of this chapter to explore other hardware options. In particular, if you have a great deal of data to back up, if you demand the highest possible performance, or if you want extra, extra protection against hardware failures, you might consider, in lieu of an individual hard drive, a RAID or other multi-drive enclosure, as I discuss next.

Consider RAIDs and RAID-Like Tech

RAID stands for Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks (or, more commonly now, Redundant Array of Independent Disks); it’s a way of combining several physical hard drives into a single logical volume using either software or a special hardware controller. Of the numerous ways to configure a RAID, two are particularly relevant to the discussion of backups:

  • Striped: A striped RAID (RAID 0) alternates between two or more disks when writing segments of data. (So, the capacity of the RAID is equal to the total capacity of the member disks.) Striped RAIDs let you combine multiple disks into larger volumes with faster performance (since all disks can be accessed in parallel), but if an error occurs on any disk, the entire RAID will fail.

  • Mirrored: A mirrored RAID (or RAID 1) writes the same data simultaneously to two or more disks. (So, the RAID capacity equals the capacity of the smallest member disk.) If any one drive fails, another can take over instantly and seamlessly with no loss of data and no down time; you can then replace the faulty drive at your leisure.

RAIDs with more than two disks can have other configurations, including RAID levels 2 through 6 and several combinations of levels. (You can read about the various forms of RAID in Wikipedia.)

Before I explain why you might care about a striped or mirrored RAID, I want to mention a few technologies that look superficially like RAID but are in fact quite different underneath:

  • JBOD: Some manufacturers sell enclosures for multiple disks that share a power supply, controller, and interface(s)—but each of these disks is independently accessible from your computer. Although you could use software to combine them into a RAID, in their native state they’re JBOD (Just a Bunch of Disks).

  • Concatenation: You can also use either hardware or software to combine two or more independent disks into a single logical volume whose size is the total of all the disks combined. That might sound like a striped RAID, but the data doesn’t alternate between disks; it’s stored sequentially, so there’s neither a performance benefit as with RAID 0 nor data redundancy as with RAID 1—and if any one drive fails, the whole volume can fail. Concatenated disks sometimes go by the names BIG or SPAN (which don’t stand for anything) and are sometimes incorrectly referred to as RAIDs. The size of a concatenated volume is equal to the sum of the sizes of all its member disks.

  • BeyondRAID: Data Robotics uses the trademarked name BeyondRAID to refer to a method of combining disks into a larger volume that provides data redundancy while maintaining the capability to use disks of different sizes and to dynamically change the array’s configuration, things you can’t ordinarily do with a RAID. I say more about this ahead, in Drobo Storage Devices.

Why You Might Care About a Striped RAID, JBOD, or Concatenated Storage

The highest-capacity individual drive mechanism available to the general public in early 2019 holds 14 TB. (At publication time, prices start around $500.) But you might have more than 14 TB of data to back up, or be unable to afford a single jumbo-sized drive. There’s a solution: a number of companies sell devices that appear to be external hard drives but hold more than 14 TB, because their cases contain multiple drive mechanisms (for example, two 8 TB disks). The enclosure’s circuitry combines the two disks into a larger volume; sometimes it’s a high-performance striped RAID 0 volume, sometimes it’s merely concatenated, and sometimes it’s JBOD but with hardware or software features that let you reconfigure it as a RAID (perhaps even a mirrored RAID 1, for more fault tolerance but half the capacity).

The good news is that such devices offer the benefit of a large, fast disk without making you cobble together your own hardware- or software-based RAID and deal with lots of boxes and cables. The bad news is that if you use RAID 0 and a mechanism in your enclosure dies, you could lose all the data on both drives. Even in the best case, you’ll have to send the device back to the manufacturer for repair. And, if one of two or more concatenated disks fails, you may not be able to get the data on the remaining disk(s) without the manufacturer’s intervention.

I’m not saying you should avoid such devices; I’m saying you should know what you’re getting into if you rely on them. Mathematically, your chances of losing the data on RAID 0 or concatenated disks are at least double that of a single mechanism of the same type. So if you get a multi-drive enclosure and have the choice, I suggest that you use RAID 1 or higher, because all levels of RAID beyond 0 offer redundancy to protect data in case of drive failure (along with a reduction in capacity).

Why You Might Care About a Mirrored RAID

Mirrored RAIDs have at least two copies of your data, so, unlike striped RAIDs, they protect you against drive failure. The downside is that you need twice as many disks for a given amount of capacity. Some people believe that a mirrored RAID consisting of their Mac’s internal drive plus an external drive of the same capacity is effectively the same thing as a duplicate—only better, because it’s always 100% up to date. I beg to differ.

I have nothing against mirrored RAIDs. However, a RAID, by itself, is no substitute for multiple duplicates as described in this book. A mirrored RAID’s best feature is also its Achilles’ heel: because changes are reflected on all drives at once, an accidentally deleted (or damaged) file will be immediately deleted (or damaged) on your “backup” drives too! (Standalone duplicates—especially if you maintain two or more of them—reduce this risk greatly.) RAIDs address the problem of drive failures but provide no insurance against human error, theft, or any of the other catastrophes that make backups so important. And, like backups stored on extra internal hard drives, RAIDs do you no good if your computer is stolen or in the shop for repairs.

So, if you use a mirrored RAID to protect yourself against drive failure, that’s fine…but you still need a separate bootable duplicate. (A mirrored RAID with more than two disks can, in certain situations, substitute for a bootable duplicate; I explain one way to set this up ahead, in Creating a RAID with SoftRAID.)

The BeyondRAID system used in Drobo devices also provides data redundancy, and can also (in some cases) be used as a bootable duplicate. However, Drobo’s benefits and limitations are fundamentally different from those of a conventional mirrored RAID, as I explain in Drobo Storage Devices.

Creating a RAID with SoftRAID

 

I said earlier that you can join multiple external disks into a RAID using either software or a special hardware controller. Apple’s Disk Utility lets you create simple software RAIDs. (This capability disappeared in 10.11 El Capitan but was restored in 10.12 Sierra.) For anyone needing more flexibility than what Disk Utility offers (or for Mac users running El Capitan), the best tool for the job is SoftRAID. Install this software (included free with some multi-drive enclosures) and you can create a RAID with any of several configurations and modify it as necessary if you add or replace hard drives.

For the purpose of this book, what I find most interesting about SoftRAID is that when it comes to bootable duplicates, it lets you have your cake and eat it too. You can create a RAID in which your internal disk is mirrored onto two or more external drives at once. Then, periodically rotate one of the drives offsite, where it will function as a standalone duplicate of your disk at an earlier state. When you plug it back into your Mac, it will automatically synchronize with the remaining drives in the RAID. The beauty of this approach is that you never have to set up, schedule, or run backup software to make duplicates; it happens automatically and is always perfectly up to date.

You’ll still need a separate way to handle versioned backups, of course, such as Time Machine or ChronoSync. One extremely clever configuration is to split each of your external drives into two partitions—one for your mirror and one for your versioned backups. That way, you don’t have to maintain separate drives for each purpose—whichever drive you have connected at any moment will be both a mirror (and, when disconnected, a bootable duplicate) and a versioned backup.

To pull this off, you’ll need the full version of SoftRAID and two or more external drives, each with plenty of capacity (ideally, three or more times that of your internal drive). For example, if I were doing this on a Mac with a 1 TB SSD, I’d use 4 TB external drives. I refer you to the SoftRAID documentation for the details of each step, but the broad outline is as follows:

  1. With SoftRAID installed on your Mac, create a bootable duplicate of your startup volume (see Create and Use a Bootable Duplicate).

  2. Boot your Mac from the duplicate.

  3. Connect the (blank) external drive you’ll use for the RAID.

  4. Use SoftRAID to initialize your Mac’s internal disk and the external disk.

  5. Create a mirror (RAID 1) volume with these two disks.

  6. Still using SoftRAID, create a second volume with the remaining partition space on the external drive. This is what you’ll use for your versioned backups.

  7. Use whichever app you employed in step 1 to clone your current startup volume (the bootable duplicate) back onto the new RAID.

  8. Open SoftRAID again, select the newly cloned volume, and choose Volume > Rebuild Boot Cache. (Without this step, your Mac won’t boot from the RAID.)

  9. Go to System Preferences > Startup Disk, select the newly created RAID as your startup disk, and click Restart.

Once your Mac has restarted from the RAID, you can set up Time Machine (or another backup app) to store versioned backups on the external drive’s spare partition. Then, if you want to include another external drive in the RAID, you can connect it and use SoftRAID to initialize it and add it to your existing RAID volume.

Whenever you disconnect an external drive from your RAID, your Mac continues running from the internal drive (and the remaining external drives, if any), but if you disconnect all the external drives, Time Machine won’t run until one of them is reconnected. Reconnecting a drive that’s part of the RAID causes it to rebuild itself automatically, so that it matches the internal drive.

This configuration amounts to a nearly bulletproof backup system. As long as you remember to swap external drives periodically (say, once a day), you’ll have all the benefits of a mirrored RAID, a bootable duplicate, and a versioned backup. Great, right? (Granted, this solution works better for desktop Macs than for laptops, because it requires you to keep at least one external drive attached much of the time.)

There are, however, some limitations in SoftRAID 5.7.3 (the latest version shipping at publication time) and earlier that you’ll want to be aware of:

  • SoftRAID 5.x doesn’t support APFS drives at all, so if you’re running High Sierra or Mojave and your startup disk is formatted as APFS, SoftRAID would be useful only for other, non-startup volumes.

  • SoftRAID does not support any disk configuration that depends on Apple’s CoreStorage technology, which includes both Fusion drives and FileVault when the drive is formatted using the HFS Plus file system. (Again, SoftRAID 6 running on APFS drives should fix this.)

  • If you’re using one or more hard drives in a mirrored RAID along with an SSD startup volume, your overall performance could suffer since the hard drives will be unable to read and write data as quickly as the SSD. Of course, you can add external SSDs to a RAID…if you can afford them!

I can’t wait for version 6.0 to appear, because a multi-drive, bootable, encrypted, mirrored RAID setup with versioned backups as I’ve described here has been a goal of mine for a number of years!

Drobo Storage Devices

Drobo storage devices are much like RAIDs, in that they let you combine multiple disks into a single, higher-capacity volume. Depending on the model, a Drobo can hold anywhere from five to eight hard drive (or SSD) mechanisms. Some have local interfaces such as USB 3.0, Thunderbolt 2, or Thunderbolt 3; others have gigabit Ethernet interfaces. Although the models have various other differences too, they all have the following in common:

  • You can hot-swap drives.

  • You can mix and match drives—any number, capacity, speed, or manufacturer.

  • Part of the space on each drive is set aside for data redundancy, so if any single drive fails, all the data remains intact. You can simply swap out the malfunctioning drive as if nothing happened.

  • The Drobo automatically reconfigures itself as you add or remove drives; no manual intervention is required at all.

This set of capabilities (along with a few other niceties) is collectively known as BeyondRAID. That’s an apt name, because Drobo does all the things a RAID can do and then some. With a conventional RAID, for example, all disks must have the same capacity, and adding or removing a volume requires lengthy, tedious reconfiguration.

As a result, a Drobo is a good way to ensure you always have enough capacity for your backups. All Drobo models work with Time Machine, and those with local interfaces can also be used as Mac boot volumes. You can even partition a Drobo into two volumes, one for bootable duplicates and the other for versioned backups.

However, even though you can use a Drobo for bootable duplicates and can remove one (or in some cases two) of them without data loss, you cannot boot from any individual drive, nor can you use the drives apart from the entire set to reconstruct your disk. That means the trick I described earlier with SoftRAID—using two or more mirrored disks and rotating one offsite in lieu of maintaining separate bootable duplicates—isn’t feasible with a Drobo. And although you could back up to two or more Drobos and rotate one offsite, the hassle and expense of doing so may be prohibitive.

So, while it could be a valuable component of a backup system, especially if you work with extremely large files, a Drobo alone probably won’t meet all your backup needs.

Choose an Interface

Your hard drive, RAID, or other multi-drive enclosure will use one of several interfaces to connect to your Mac: Thunderbolt, Thunderbolt 2, Thunderbolt 3, USB 3.0, USB 3.1 Gen 1, or USB 3.1 Gen 2 (see the sidebar USB 3.1, USB-C, and Thunderbolt 3, ahead). You can buy hard drives with various combinations of these interfaces. In general, drives with a single interface are less expensive than drives with more than one, and as single-interface drives go, USB 3.0 drives are nearly always the cheapest, while Thunderbolt 3 is the most expensive. However, money isn’t the only consideration.

When considering which interface(s) to get, keep in mind the following factors:

  • Speed: In general, the faster the interface’s transfer speed, the less time it will take to back up and restore files. However, after an initial full backup, extra speed offers much less benefit for backups than it does for, say, real-time video editing; since backups typically happen in the background anyway, you may not notice the speed boost from a faster interface.

    On paper, the theoretical speed with which these interfaces can transfer data goes in this order, from slowest to fastest: USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 Gen 1 (5 Gbps); Thunderbolt and USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10 Gbps); Thunderbolt 2 (20 Gbps); and Thunderbolt 3 (40 Gbps). However, note that theoretical speeds don’t necessarily match up to real-world performance. In addition, be aware that for nearly all modern hard drives, the bottleneck is their built-in SATA III interface, which maxes out at 6 Gbps. That means that for single drives, a higher-speed interface (such as Thunderbolt 2 or 3) won’t provide speed benefits over Thunderbolt or USB 3.1 Gen 2.

  • Hardware support: Recent Macs have ports supporting one or more of the following standards: USB 3.0, USB 3.1, Thunderbolt 2, and Thunderbolt 3 (see the sidebar USB 3.1, USB-C, and Thunderbolt 3, ahead). Macs can boot from external drives connected to any of these ports.

    Think about not only what interface(s) your current Mac has but also what your next Mac will have. Apple has completely phased out the old FireWire and USB 2.0 interfaces. USB 3.0 is still hanging on, but barely, while USB 3.1 and Thunderbolt 3 (which share the same connector) are the interfaces most likely to be with us for years into the future.

So what’s the bottom line? Nowadays, USB 3.x is generally your best bet, because USB 3 drives are extremely fast (even if not quite up to Thunderbolt speeds), plus cheaper and far more plentiful than Thunderbolt drives. And remember, even though Thunderbolt is faster, individual drives can’t take advantage of that speed; only RAIDs and similar devices will benefit from that speedy Thunderbolt throughput.

Given the choice, a drive with a USB-C connector and support for USB 3.1 Gen 2 is the highest-performance and most future-proof option, and you can easily connect such a drive to a Mac with a USB 3.0 port using an adapter cable. A USB 3.0 drive can still be plenty fast, however, and you can use that very same adapter cable to connect it to a newer Mac with a USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 port.

Evaluate Network Storage Options

If you know that you’ll be using network backups—alone or in combination with local drives—you’ll next want to figure out whether to use a standalone appliance for this purpose, and if so, which one (see Network Storage Devices, next); or whether you want to use another computer on your network as a backup server (see Local Network Servers).

Network Storage Devices

The term NAS, or network-attached storage, typically refers to a box containing one or more hard drives, a bit of computing power, and a wired or wireless network interface—sort of a minimalist file server. (Sometimes NAS devices are simply called network drives.)

Ethernet-equipped Drobo models are examples of NAS devices. Apple’s Time Capsule was also a type of NAS device (more on this in a moment). Similarly, an Apple AirPort Extreme Base Station with an external USB drive (an AirPort Disk) could be considered a NAS, but only the most recent (tower-shaped) AirPort Extreme models let you use an AirPort Disk for Time Machine backups.

NAS devices are frequently marketed as backup (and all-purpose file storage) solutions for small networks. The idea is that you can set up a centralized file server without needing an additional computer, and every computer on your network can back up files to it. Some NAS equipment can also communicate with your home entertainment system, providing storage for audio and video. And newer NAS devices that use the Btrfs file system can take snapshots of your data manually or at scheduled intervals, which produces an effect similar to storing versioned backups: you can at any time restore your data to its state when a snapshot was taken.

Although a NAS device can indeed be useful in many situations, you should keep in mind a few important considerations when thinking about using one as a backup destination:

  • Some NAS models can run their own backup software (that is, the NAS runs the server app, and each of your Macs runs a client). That’s a perfectly valid setup, but because you can’t install just any arbitrary backup software on any given NAS, you may be stuck with whatever app the manufacturer offers, or whatever third-party options may be available for that particular platform. This approach may limit your flexibility and prevent you from setting up your backups in precisely the way you’d prefer.

  • If your NAS can’t run its own backup software—or if you’re unhappy with the software it offers—you can still use it for push backups (see Network Backup Approaches) and run the backup app of your choice on each Mac. Performance and reliability may take a hit over what client-server backups offer, however.

  • Irrespective of the points above, some NAS models—mostly newer ones—support Time Machine. If the model you choose does, you can follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set it up as a destination for your Macs. But be sure to confirm compatibility before you make your purchase.

  • Some older NAS devices can only be formatted using FAT32, a Windows file system. Although macOS can read from and write to FAT32 volumes, some metadata may not be stored properly. Your backup software may address this limitation by storing data in a special archive file, but if it backs up files in a Finder-readable format, you risk losing data.

  • You can’t create a bootable duplicate onto a NAS (and even if you could, you wouldn’t be able to boot your Mac from it). The only way to create a bootable duplicate over a network is to back up to a drive connected to a Mac running one of a very few backup apps specially designed for this purpose (Carbon Copy Cloner, ChronoSync, or Retrospect).

  • And don’t forget, your NAS itself should be backed up to another destination; see Back Up a NAS.

All that said, with the right hardware and software a NAS can make an excellent storage medium for versioned backups of several computers’ files, and thus a valuable component of a broader backup strategy.

For those wanting to use Time Machine to back up to a NAS, Apple’s AirPort Time Capsule was once the optimal solution. Even though it was more expensive than competing products, it was expressly designed to work in this configuration. Unfortunately, as I mentioned in Time Capsules Officially Bite the Dust, since the previous version of this book was published Apple stopped selling the Time Capsule and all other AirPort products. If you still have one, you can use it (until the hardware eventually fails), but it’s no longer a good long-term solution.

Local Network Servers

If, in your home or office, a Mac or PC is functioning as a file server, it’s worth considering whether you could use a network volume as a backup destination. After all, a full-blown computer is likely to give you both better performance and greater flexibility than even the fanciest NAS. (And, if you have the computer already, you won’t need to buy another device.)

In general, if you have control over the server yourself and it’s not already bogged down with other tasks, using it for backups is a fine idea. I strongly recommend adding a separate physical hard drive, and either configuring the server—if it’s a Mac running High Sierra or later—as a Time Machine server (see Use a Mac as a Time Machine Server) or installing client-server backup software (see Network Backup Approaches). Otherwise, your backups will be commingled with other files, making it difficult to store them offsite and potentially creating a security risk.

If you do not personally have control over the server (for example, if it’s a shared company server), resist the urge to use it for backups. You could easily use up more space and network bandwidth than you should (thus incurring the wrath of your IT department), and you’ll have less control over your data than if you use local media.

Hardware You Should Probably Avoid

One final word before we move on to the next chapter. I’ve said that hard drives of one kind or another are your all-around best bet as a storage medium and that online storage is worth considering as an easy, secure alternative to rotating physical media offsite. But there are other kinds of backup hardware, and I want to head off all the “Yeah, but what about…” inquiries.

So let me give you a quick rundown of hardware I think you should probably not consider:

  • Optical media: The various flavors of recordable CDs and DVDs are collectively known as optical media. Apple has moved past optical drives in Macs, and even if your older Mac does have an optical drive, it will be slower and have a much smaller capacity than a hard drive. The data on optical discs can deteriorate to the point where it’s unreadable, sometimes in just a few years (see Consider Long-Term Archive Storage). And who knows if you’ll be able to attach an optical drive of any kind to the Mac you might own in five or ten years? If you used optical media in the past, I recommend moving to hard drives for backups right now.

  • Flash drives (including external SSDs): You can buy USB 2 or USB 3 “thumb” drives that will store as much as 2 TB in a very small space. These drives are handy for moving data from place to place, and they’re fine for making quick extra backup copies of truly critical files as you work. But for regular backups, the cost per gigabyte is still way higher than even a high-end hard drive, making them unattractive as the primary storage medium for full backups. The same goes for higher-speed external SSDs packaged in USB and Thunderbolt enclosures (although, admittedly, prices are finally starting to drop). If you can afford them, knock yourself out. On the other hand, I think flash drives are an increasingly logical choice for partial backups while on the road, and as prices fall even further and capacities increase, I wouldn’t be surprised if they eventually become an even more economical choice than hard drives.

  • SD cards: Some Mac models include built-in SD card slots, which are primarily designed to let you easily transfer data from your digital camera or camcorder. But since the SD card mounts as a regular Finder-accessible volume, you can easily use it to store backups, too. What I said just previously about USB flash drives applies here too: there’s nothing wrong with them in principle, but they’re currently too limited in capacity, and too expensive per gigabyte, to use as one’s main backup medium. That said, where a flash drive would work for a quick backup on the go, an SD card should work equally well.

  • Tape drives: Drives that store your data on digital tape cartridges of one kind or another are common in big businesses, but they’re more cumbersome than hard drives, they require a lot of media swapping (or a robot to do it for you), and they’re relatively expensive (that is, the drives are expensive; the media itself isn’t). For home or small-office users, they’re a poor choice.

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