COURSE
04

DIVINE DIPS, DRESSINGS, AND SAVORY SAUCES

THIS COURSE TAKES YOU ON A JOURNEY INTO EMULSIONS AND PURÉES. IT’S MAGICAL TO TRANSFORM OIL, VINEGAR, AND MUSTARD FROM A MESSY, IMMISCIBLE (UNMIXABLE) PUDDLE INTO SWIRLS OF SILKY GOLDEN VINAIGRETTE, OR WHIP UP CHEF JULIA CHILD’S MAYONNAISE.

Sauces bring out the best in food. Light sauces enhance food, while heavier ones partner up with foods in a costarring role. Many sauces are made by creating flavorful suspensions and emulsions, so science comes into play each time you mix them up.

Their viscosity (thickness) determines how well they flow, and the proportions of ingredients work together to create a balanced flavor.

“From experience, I know what a dish will taste like before I’ve ever tasted it. Understanding that fats carry flavor, that salt enhances it and that acidity provides balance allows you to build more complex flavors, creating deliciousness, a mouth-watering sensation that we chefs work to achieve.”

Tim McKee, chef, winner of the 2009 James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Midwest

“When I wasn’t at school, I was experimenting at home, and became a bit of a Mad Scientist. I did hours of research on mayonnaise, for instance, and though no one else seemed to care about it, I thought it was utterly fascinating… . By the end of my research, I believe, I had written more on the subject of mayonnaise than anyone in history.”

Julia Child, My Life in France

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Lab 15

DASHING VINAIGRETTE

CREATE THE BEST-DRESSED SALAD IN TOWN WITH THIS TANGY EMULSION.

INGREDIENTS

Image  1 tablespoon (11 g) Dijon mustard (good mustard makes good vinaigrette)

Image  1 tablespoon (15 ml) vinegar (choose your favorite) or lemon juice

Image  3 tablespoons (45 ml) mild olive oil or vegetable oil

EQUIPMENT

Image  Fork or wire whisk

Image  Small bowl

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

Choose your favorite vinegar for your vinaigrette. Rice or cider vinegar tend to be milder than red or white wine vinegar. Sherry vinegar is our family’s favorite.

If you prefer lemon juice, fresh-squeezed is best! Don’t like mustard? Mix 1 tablespoon (15 ml) lemon juice with 3 tablespoons oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

RECIPE

1. Combine the mustard with vinegar or lemon juice in the bowl. (Fig. 1)

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Fig. 1: Add mustard and vinegar to a small bowl.

2. Whisk the mixture until well blended. (Fig. 2)

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Fig. 2: Whisk the mustard and vinegar.

3. Drizzle the oil into the mustard/vinegar mixture a little bit at a time, whisking as you do.

4. Stir the mixture vigorously until a thick, shimmery emulsion forms between the oil and vinegar. (Fig.3)

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Fig. 3: Stir in oil until a thick emulsion forms.

5. Taste the salad dressing. If the vinegar is too strong for your taste, add another tablespoon of oil and taste it again. (Fig. 4)

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Fig. 4: Taste the vinaigrette.

6. If an emulsion won’t form, let the mixture sit for a few minutes, add a few drops of warm water and try again.

7. Use the vinaigrette to dress your favorite salad, sandwich, or vegetable. (Fig. 5)

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Fig. 5: Dress your favorite salad with the vinaigrette you prepared.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Try your hand at making Awesome Aioli (Lab 16), another emulsion!

Make vinaigrettes using different vinegars and oils, depending on what flavors you want to pair with a salad.

Lab 16

AWESOME AIOLI

THE WORD “AIOLI” IS USED TO REFER TO A MEDITERRANEAN EMULSION OF OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC, BUT TODAY PEOPLE USE IT TO REFER TO MAYONNAISE THAT’S BEEN FLAVORED WITH ANYTHING FROM GARLIC TO SRIRACHA. IT’S FUN AND DELICIOUS TO MAKE HOMEMADE MAYO AS A BASE FOR YOUR OWN CUSTOM CONDIMENT OR DIP.

Adapted from Julia Child’s mayonnaise recipe.

INGREDIENTS

Image  1 large egg

Image  2 teaspoons (10 ml) lemon juice

Image  1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Image  1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Image  1 teaspoon (5 ml) cold water

Image  1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil or neutral oil, such as safflower or canola

Image  Hot sauce, optional, for taste

Image  Garlic, optional, for taste

Image  Chopped herbs, optional, for taste

EQUIPMENT

Image  Glass or stainless-steel round-bottomed mixing bowl

Image  Small saucepan for coddling eggs

Image  Wire whisk

Image  Thermometer

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

All of the ingredients should be at room temperature before you start.

I recommend coddling the eggs (see recipe) to kill any bacteria that may be present, but mayo can be made with raw eggs as well. Coddle large eggs for 3 minutes and extra-large eggs for 5 minutes.

RECIPE

1. Coddle a few eggs. In a saucepan on the stove, bring water to 140°F (60°C) and remove it from the heat. If it’s hotter than 140°F, wait for it to cool to the desired temperature. Place the eggs in the 140°F water for 3–5 minutes, depending on the size of the eggs. (Fig. 1) Remove them to a bowl of ice water for 3 minutes. (Fig. 2) Then, take the eggs out of the ice water and put them in a bowl of room-temperature water for a few more minutes.

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Fig. 1: Coddle the eggs.

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Fig. 2: Chill briefly on ice.

2. Warm a mixing bowl using hot water. Dry the bowl. Crack an egg and put the yolk in the mixing bowl.

3. Whisk the egg yolk for 2 minutes.

4. Add the lemon juice, mustard, salt and 1 teaspoon cold water and whisk everything together until frothy. (Fig. 3)

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Fig. 3: Mix lemon juice, mustard, and salt.

5. Whisking constantly, slowly dribble in the oil a drop at a time until the mayonnaise starts to thicken and the oil is incorporated. (Fig. 4)

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Fig. 4: Drizzle oil in as you whisk.

6. When the mayonnaise emulsifies and gets thicker, you can add the oil in a thin stream instead of drop by drop. (Fig. 5)

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Fig. 5: Whisk until thick.

7. (Optional) Mix the mayonnaise with garlic, herbs, or your favorite hot sauce to create a dip or spread. (Fig. 6)

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Fig. 6: Mix with garlic, herbs, or hot sauce.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Add homemade pesto (Lab 20) to your aioli to give it a basil and garlic punch.

Lab 17

HEAVENLY HUMMUS

HUMMUS IS DELICIOUS ON EVERYTHING FROM PITA CHIPS TO CARROT STICKS. THIS VERSATILE HIGH-PROTEIN PURÉE ORIGINATED IN THE MIDDLE EAST AND IS QUICK AND SIMPLE TO MAKE AT HOME USING CANNED CHICKPEAS.

Adapted from Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi.

INGREDIENTS

Image  2 cups (480 g) canned chickpeas

Image  2 tablespoons (28 ml) ice-cold water, more if needed

Image  1 lemon

Image  1 clove garlic, minced

Image  1 teaspoon kosher salt

Image  1/2 cup (120 g) tahini (sesame seed paste)

Image  Olive oil (optional)

EQUIPMENT

Image  Food processor or blender

Image  Juicer or citrus press

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

A food processor works best for making hummus, but a blender will do.

Food processor blades are extremely sharp. Adult supervision is recommended.

RECIPE

1. Juice a lemon. (Fig. 1)

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Fig 1: Juice the lemon.

2. Add the chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, and tahini to a food processor or blender. (Fig. 2)

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Fig. 2: Add the ingredients to the blender.

3. Blend into a thick paste. (Fig. 3)

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Fig. 3: Blend the mixture into a thick paste.

4. Add the ice-cold water and blend again until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Taste it and add salt as needed. (Fig. 4)

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Fig. 4: Taste and adjust seasoning.

5. Drizzle with olive oil (optional) and serve with pita bread, pita chips, potato chips, or fresh vegetables. You can also serve hummus as a main dish, or as a bed for meatballs or lamb. (Fig. 5)

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Fig. 5: Serve hummus with veggies and pita bread or chips.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Make meatballs (Lab 28) using ground lamb or turkey and Mediterranean seasoning to serve with the hummus.

Lab 18

LIP-SMACKING ALFREDO

THIS EGG-FREE VERSION OF A CLASSIC RECIPE IS PERFECT FOR COATING PASTA WITH A CREAMY, RICH SAUCE THAT EVEN THE PICKIEST EATER WILL LOVE. PAIR WITH VEGETABLES AND PROTEIN TO CREATE A MOUTHWATERING MEAL.

INGREDIENTS

Image  4 tablespoons (55 g) butter

Image  1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream

Image  1 cup (100 g) grated Parmesan cheese, lightly packed, plus more for thickening sauce and serving

Image  Salt

Image  Pepper

Image  1 clove garlic (optional)

EQUIPMENT

Image  Cheese grater

Image  Knife

Image  Large skillet or sauté pan

Image  Mixing spoon

Image  Stove

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

Good-quality Parmesan makes the best Alfredo sauce.

If you want thinner sauce, add more cream. For a thicker sauce, throw in more Parmesan cheese.

RECIPE

1. Grate the Parmesan cheese.

2. If using garlic, finely dice it.

3. Melt the butter in a large skillet. If you’re using garlic, add it to the butter and cook on medium for 2 minutes. Don’t allow the garlic to brown, or the sauce will have a bitter taste.

4. Add the cream to the butter and stir.

5. Add the grated Parmesan and stir over medium-low heat for a few minutes, until the sauce is smooth. (Fig. 1)

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Fig. 1: Add cream to melted butter.

6. Taste the sauce. If you want it thinner, add more cream. To make it thicker, add more shredded cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Serve sauce plain, or add chicken and veggies. (Fig. 2, 3, 4, 5)

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Fig. 2: Throw together a pasta bar.

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Fig. 3: Invite your friends.

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Fig. 4: Alfredo sauce can stand on its own or be paired with other pasta toppings.

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Fig. 5: You can add chicken and vegetables to make a meal.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Stir-fry or steam some veggies (Lab 30) to go with the Alfredo. A salad (Lab 32) would make a super side dish.

Lab 19

TONY TOMATO SAUCE

WITH THIS SIMPLE TOMATO SAUCE, COOKBOOK AUTHOR MARCELLA HAZAN CREATED A PERFECT PAIRING OF ACID AND BUTTERFAT. ONE BITE WILL WIN YOUR HEART (AND YOUR TASTE BUDS).

Adapted from a recipe by Marcella Hazan.

INGREDIENTS

Image  5 tablespoons (70 g) butter

Image  1 (28-ounce [800 g]) can of whole, peeled tomatoes with their juices (around 2 cups)

Image  1 yellow, white, or sweet onion

Image  Salt

Image  Basil, for flavor

EQUIPMENT

Image  Blender or hand blender (optional)

Image  Knife

Image  Large saucepan

Image  Spoon

Image  Stove

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

If you like tomato chunks, you can skip blending.

This sauce is good with any kind of canned tomatoes, but San Marzano are my favorite. Use whole, peeled tomatoes without added sugar or corn syrup for the best results.

RECIPE

1. Cut an onion in half, keeping the ends intact to hold it together. Remove the peel. (Fig. 1, 2)

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Fig. 1: Cut the onion.

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Fig. 2: Remove the peel.

2. Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat.

3. Add the tomatoes and halved onion to the pan, along with a pinch of salt. (Fig. 3)

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Fig. 3: Add tomatoes.

4. Cook the sauce, uncovered, for 45 minutes or so. (Fig. 4)

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Fig. 4: Cook the sauce uncovered.

5. Mash the tomatoes with a spoon, stir the sauce, and taste it, adding salt as needed. Remove the onion.

6. Ladle the sauce into a blender or use a hand blender to purée it (optional). (Fig. 5)

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Fig. 5: Puree the tomatoes (optional)

7. Serve the sauce over your favorite pasta and share the recipe with a friend. (Fig. 6)

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Fig. 6: Serve the sauce over pasta.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Make homemade pasta (Lab 22) to go with your sauce or use it on pizza crust (Lab 24).

Lab 20

NUT-FREE PESTO

BURSTING WITH FLAVOR, THIS VERDANT SAUCE MADE FROM FRESH BASIL IS DELICIOUS ON EVERYTHING FROM POTATO CHIPS TO BOW-TIE PASTA. AFTER YOU TRY IT WITH BASIL, EXPERIMENT WITH YOUR FAVORITE HERBS TO CREATE A CUSTOM BLEND.

INGREDIENTS

Image  4 cups (120 g) fresh basil leaves, lightly packed (or herb of your choice)

Image  1 cup (100 g) fresh Parmesan cheese (you can use dehydrated Parmesan, but freshly-grated is better!)

Image  1 cup (235 ml) olive oil

Image  1 clove fresh garlic, minced (optional)

EQUIPMENT

Image  Blender or food processor

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

Don’t blend in vain! Stop the blender periodically to push the leaves down with a wooden spoon.

RECIPE

1. Wash the basil well, rinse it and pat it dry. (Fig. 1)

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Fig. 1: Wash the basil.

2. Add the garlic, basil, Parmesan, and oil to the blender or food processor. (Fig. 2)

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Fig. 2: Add the ingredients to the blender.

3. Blend until smooth. You may have to stop the blender and push down on the basil with a spoon a few times. (Fig. 3, 4)

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Fig. 3: Use a spoon to smash the leaves down.

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Fig. 4: Blend until smooth.

4. Serve pesto as a dip or use it as pizza or pasta sauce. (Fig. 5, 6)

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Fig. 5: Mix with your favorite pasta.

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Fig. 6: Enjoy!

5. Store refrigerated or freeze pesto in an ice cube tray to use later.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Make your own pasta (Lab 22) or pizza dough (Lab 24) to enjoy with the pesto.

Experiment with other green sauces, such as chimichurri, by blending other herbs. Choose one strong-flavored herb (such as basil, mint, or dill) and mix it with milder herbs (such as parsley or chives). You can also play with the texture of the green sauce by chopping herbs by hand.

Lab 21

BEST BEURRE BLANC

JULIA CHILD LEARNED TO MAKE THIS CLASSIC FRENCH SAUCE AT A DINNER PARTY. IT COMBINES BUTTER, WINE, AND VINEGAR TO CREATE A DREAMY TOPPING THAT BRINGS OUT THE BEST IN VEGETABLES, CHICKEN, OR FISH.

Adapted from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home by Julia Child and Jacques Pépin.

INGREDIENTS

JULIA CHILD’S SAUCE

Image  1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine vinegar

Image  1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine

Image  1 tablespoon (10 g) minced shallots (optional)

Image  2 sticks (225 g) cold butter (not clarified butter)

Image  Salt

Image  Pepper

WINE-FREE VERSION

Image  1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine vinegar

Image  1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy whipping cream

Image  1 tablespoon (10 g) minced shallots (optional)

Image  1 stick (112 g) cold butter (not clarified butter)

Image  Salt

Image  White pepper

OPTIONAL

Image  Vegetables to roast

Image  Olive oil

EQUIPMENT

Image  Medium or large skillet

Image  Mixing spoon

Image  Stove, grill, and/or oven

Image  Wire whisk

RECIPE

1. If you’re making vegetables, toss them with some olive oil. (Fig. 1)

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Fig. 1: Toss the vegetables in olive oil.

2. Grill or roast the vegetables (see Lab 30) while you make the sauce. (Fig. 2)

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Fig. 2: Grill or roast veggies to go with your sauce.

3. Cut the butter into 16 pieces. (Fig. 3)

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Fig. 3: Cut the butter into smaller pieces.

4. Add the wine (if using) and vinegar to a medium or large skillet. Turn the heat up to medium high.

5. Add the shallots (if using) to the liquid.

6. Reduce the liquid by boiling it down to a syrupy glaze and remove it from the heat. (Fig. 4)

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Fig. 4: Reduce the wine and vinegar. Add butter.

7. Immediately whisk in two lumps of cold butter. If you’re making the wine-free version, add the cream here.

8. Set the pan back on the stove over low heat and continue to whisk in the butter a piece at a time, adding a new one each time the previous one melts.

9. When the last piece of butter has melted, turn the heat off and taste the sauce. Add salt and pepper to season.

10. Serve the sauce with fish, chicken, or sweet corn. (Fig. 5)

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Fig. 5: Serve with fish, chicken, or sweet corn.

11. Buerre Blanc is delicious on vegetables and rice too. (Fig. 6)

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Fig. 6: Beurre blanc is delicious with rice and vegetables too.

CREATE AND COMBINE

Toss homemade pasta (Lab 22) with beurre blanc or drizzle it over roasted potatoes (Lab 31).

SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS

The alcohol in wine evaporates during cooking, but there is a wine-free alternative for those who prefer it.

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