THIS COURSE TAKES YOU ON A JOURNEY INTO EMULSIONS AND PURÉES. IT’S MAGICAL TO TRANSFORM OIL, VINEGAR, AND MUSTARD FROM A MESSY, IMMISCIBLE (UNMIXABLE) PUDDLE INTO SWIRLS OF SILKY GOLDEN VINAIGRETTE, OR WHIP UP CHEF JULIA CHILD’S MAYONNAISE.
Sauces bring out the best in food. Light sauces enhance food, while heavier ones partner up with foods in a costarring role. Many sauces are made by creating flavorful suspensions and emulsions, so science comes into play each time you mix them up.
Their viscosity (thickness) determines how well they flow, and the proportions of ingredients work together to create a balanced flavor.
“From experience, I know what a dish will taste like before I’ve ever tasted it. Understanding that fats carry flavor, that salt enhances it and that acidity provides balance allows you to build more complex flavors, creating deliciousness, a mouth-watering sensation that we chefs work to achieve.”
Tim McKee, chef, winner of the 2009 James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Midwest
“When I wasn’t at school, I was experimenting at home, and became a bit of a Mad Scientist. I did hours of research on mayonnaise, for instance, and though no one else seemed to care about it, I thought it was utterly fascinating… . By the end of my research, I believe, I had written more on the subject of mayonnaise than anyone in history.”
Julia Child, My Life in France
DASHING VINAIGRETTE |
CREATE THE BEST-DRESSED SALAD IN TOWN WITH THIS TANGY EMULSION.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon (11 g) Dijon mustard (good mustard makes good vinaigrette)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) vinegar (choose your favorite) or lemon juice
3 tablespoons (45 ml) mild olive oil or vegetable oil
EQUIPMENT
Fork or wire whisk
Small bowl
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
Choose your favorite vinegar for your vinaigrette. Rice or cider vinegar tend to be milder than red or white wine vinegar. Sherry vinegar is our family’s favorite.
If you prefer lemon juice, fresh-squeezed is best! Don’t like mustard? Mix 1 tablespoon (15 ml) lemon juice with 3 tablespoons oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.
RECIPE
1. Combine the mustard with vinegar or lemon juice in the bowl. (Fig. 1)
2. Whisk the mixture until well blended. (Fig. 2)
3. Drizzle the oil into the mustard/vinegar mixture a little bit at a time, whisking as you do.
4. Stir the mixture vigorously until a thick, shimmery emulsion forms between the oil and vinegar. (Fig.3)
5. Taste the salad dressing. If the vinegar is too strong for your taste, add another tablespoon of oil and taste it again. (Fig. 4)
6. If an emulsion won’t form, let the mixture sit for a few minutes, add a few drops of warm water and try again.
7. Use the vinaigrette to dress your favorite salad, sandwich, or vegetable. (Fig. 5)
Try your hand at making Awesome Aioli (Lab 16), another emulsion!
Make vinaigrettes using different vinegars and oils, depending on what flavors you want to pair with a salad.
AWESOME AIOLI |
THE WORD “AIOLI” IS USED TO REFER TO A MEDITERRANEAN EMULSION OF OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC, BUT TODAY PEOPLE USE IT TO REFER TO MAYONNAISE THAT’S BEEN FLAVORED WITH ANYTHING FROM GARLIC TO SRIRACHA. IT’S FUN AND DELICIOUS TO MAKE HOMEMADE MAYO AS A BASE FOR YOUR OWN CUSTOM CONDIMENT OR DIP.
Adapted from Julia Child’s mayonnaise recipe.
INGREDIENTS
1 large egg
2 teaspoons (10 ml) lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon (5 ml) cold water
1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil or neutral oil, such as safflower or canola
Hot sauce, optional, for taste
Garlic, optional, for taste
Chopped herbs, optional, for taste
EQUIPMENT
Glass or stainless-steel round-bottomed mixing bowl
Small saucepan for coddling eggs
Wire whisk
Thermometer
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
All of the ingredients should be at room temperature before you start.
I recommend coddling the eggs (see recipe) to kill any bacteria that may be present, but mayo can be made with raw eggs as well. Coddle large eggs for 3 minutes and extra-large eggs for 5 minutes.
RECIPE
1. Coddle a few eggs. In a saucepan on the stove, bring water to 140°F (60°C) and remove it from the heat. If it’s hotter than 140°F, wait for it to cool to the desired temperature. Place the eggs in the 140°F water for 3–5 minutes, depending on the size of the eggs. (Fig. 1) Remove them to a bowl of ice water for 3 minutes. (Fig. 2) Then, take the eggs out of the ice water and put them in a bowl of room-temperature water for a few more minutes.
2. Warm a mixing bowl using hot water. Dry the bowl. Crack an egg and put the yolk in the mixing bowl.
3. Whisk the egg yolk for 2 minutes.
4. Add the lemon juice, mustard, salt and 1 teaspoon cold water and whisk everything together until frothy. (Fig. 3)
5. Whisking constantly, slowly dribble in the oil a drop at a time until the mayonnaise starts to thicken and the oil is incorporated. (Fig. 4)
6. When the mayonnaise emulsifies and gets thicker, you can add the oil in a thin stream instead of drop by drop. (Fig. 5)
7. (Optional) Mix the mayonnaise with garlic, herbs, or your favorite hot sauce to create a dip or spread. (Fig. 6)
Add homemade pesto (Lab 20) to your aioli to give it a basil and garlic punch.
HEAVENLY HUMMUS |
HUMMUS IS DELICIOUS ON EVERYTHING FROM PITA CHIPS TO CARROT STICKS. THIS VERSATILE HIGH-PROTEIN PURÉE ORIGINATED IN THE MIDDLE EAST AND IS QUICK AND SIMPLE TO MAKE AT HOME USING CANNED CHICKPEAS.
Adapted from Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi.
INGREDIENTS
2 cups (480 g) canned chickpeas
2 tablespoons (28 ml) ice-cold water, more if needed
1 lemon
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup (120 g) tahini (sesame seed paste)
Olive oil (optional)
EQUIPMENT
Food processor or blender
Juicer or citrus press
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
A food processor works best for making hummus, but a blender will do.
Food processor blades are extremely sharp. Adult supervision is recommended.
RECIPE
1. Juice a lemon. (Fig. 1)
2. Add the chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, and tahini to a food processor or blender. (Fig. 2)
3. Blend into a thick paste. (Fig. 3)
4. Add the ice-cold water and blend again until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Taste it and add salt as needed. (Fig. 4)
5. Drizzle with olive oil (optional) and serve with pita bread, pita chips, potato chips, or fresh vegetables. You can also serve hummus as a main dish, or as a bed for meatballs or lamb. (Fig. 5)
Make meatballs (Lab 28) using ground lamb or turkey and Mediterranean seasoning to serve with the hummus.
LIP-SMACKING ALFREDO |
THIS EGG-FREE VERSION OF A CLASSIC RECIPE IS PERFECT FOR COATING PASTA WITH A CREAMY, RICH SAUCE THAT EVEN THE PICKIEST EATER WILL LOVE. PAIR WITH VEGETABLES AND PROTEIN TO CREATE A MOUTHWATERING MEAL.
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons (55 g) butter
1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 cup (100 g) grated Parmesan cheese, lightly packed, plus more for thickening sauce and serving
Salt
Pepper
1 clove garlic (optional)
EQUIPMENT
Cheese grater
Knife
Large skillet or sauté pan
Mixing spoon
Stove
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
Good-quality Parmesan makes the best Alfredo sauce.
If you want thinner sauce, add more cream. For a thicker sauce, throw in more Parmesan cheese.
RECIPE
1. Grate the Parmesan cheese.
2. If using garlic, finely dice it.
3. Melt the butter in a large skillet. If you’re using garlic, add it to the butter and cook on medium for 2 minutes. Don’t allow the garlic to brown, or the sauce will have a bitter taste.
4. Add the cream to the butter and stir.
5. Add the grated Parmesan and stir over medium-low heat for a few minutes, until the sauce is smooth. (Fig. 1)
6. Taste the sauce. If you want it thinner, add more cream. To make it thicker, add more shredded cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Serve sauce plain, or add chicken and veggies. (Fig. 2, 3, 4, 5)
Stir-fry or steam some veggies (Lab 30) to go with the Alfredo. A salad (Lab 32) would make a super side dish.
TONY TOMATO SAUCE |
WITH THIS SIMPLE TOMATO SAUCE, COOKBOOK AUTHOR MARCELLA HAZAN CREATED A PERFECT PAIRING OF ACID AND BUTTERFAT. ONE BITE WILL WIN YOUR HEART (AND YOUR TASTE BUDS).
Adapted from a recipe by Marcella Hazan.
INGREDIENTS
5 tablespoons (70 g) butter
1 (28-ounce [800 g]) can of whole, peeled tomatoes with their juices (around 2 cups)
1 yellow, white, or sweet onion
Salt
Basil, for flavor
EQUIPMENT
Blender or hand blender (optional)
Knife
Large saucepan
Spoon
Stove
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
If you like tomato chunks, you can skip blending.
This sauce is good with any kind of canned tomatoes, but San Marzano are my favorite. Use whole, peeled tomatoes without added sugar or corn syrup for the best results.
RECIPE
1. Cut an onion in half, keeping the ends intact to hold it together. Remove the peel. (Fig. 1, 2)
2. Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat.
3. Add the tomatoes and halved onion to the pan, along with a pinch of salt. (Fig. 3)
4. Cook the sauce, uncovered, for 45 minutes or so. (Fig. 4)
5. Mash the tomatoes with a spoon, stir the sauce, and taste it, adding salt as needed. Remove the onion.
6. Ladle the sauce into a blender or use a hand blender to purée it (optional). (Fig. 5)
7. Serve the sauce over your favorite pasta and share the recipe with a friend. (Fig. 6)
Make homemade pasta (Lab 22) to go with your sauce or use it on pizza crust (Lab 24).
NUT-FREE PESTO |
BURSTING WITH FLAVOR, THIS VERDANT SAUCE MADE FROM FRESH BASIL IS DELICIOUS ON EVERYTHING FROM POTATO CHIPS TO BOW-TIE PASTA. AFTER YOU TRY IT WITH BASIL, EXPERIMENT WITH YOUR FAVORITE HERBS TO CREATE A CUSTOM BLEND.
INGREDIENTS
4 cups (120 g) fresh basil leaves, lightly packed (or herb of your choice)
1 cup (100 g) fresh Parmesan cheese (you can use dehydrated Parmesan, but freshly-grated is better!)
1 cup (235 ml) olive oil
1 clove fresh garlic, minced (optional)
EQUIPMENT
Blender or food processor
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
Don’t blend in vain! Stop the blender periodically to push the leaves down with a wooden spoon.
RECIPE
1. Wash the basil well, rinse it and pat it dry. (Fig. 1)
2. Add the garlic, basil, Parmesan, and oil to the blender or food processor. (Fig. 2)
3. Blend until smooth. You may have to stop the blender and push down on the basil with a spoon a few times. (Fig. 3, 4)
4. Serve pesto as a dip or use it as pizza or pasta sauce. (Fig. 5, 6)
5. Store refrigerated or freeze pesto in an ice cube tray to use later.
Experiment with other green sauces, such as chimichurri, by blending other herbs. Choose one strong-flavored herb (such as basil, mint, or dill) and mix it with milder herbs (such as parsley or chives). You can also play with the texture of the green sauce by chopping herbs by hand.
BEST BEURRE BLANC |
JULIA CHILD LEARNED TO MAKE THIS CLASSIC FRENCH SAUCE AT A DINNER PARTY. IT COMBINES BUTTER, WINE, AND VINEGAR TO CREATE A DREAMY TOPPING THAT BRINGS OUT THE BEST IN VEGETABLES, CHICKEN, OR FISH.
Adapted from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home by Julia Child and Jacques Pépin.
INGREDIENTS
JULIA CHILD’S SAUCE
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1 tablespoon (10 g) minced shallots (optional)
2 sticks (225 g) cold butter (not clarified butter)
Salt
Pepper
WINE-FREE VERSION
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 tablespoon (10 g) minced shallots (optional)
1 stick (112 g) cold butter (not clarified butter)
Salt
White pepper
OPTIONAL
Vegetables to roast
Olive oil
EQUIPMENT
Medium or large skillet
Mixing spoon
Stove, grill, and/or oven
Wire whisk
RECIPE
1. If you’re making vegetables, toss them with some olive oil. (Fig. 1)
2. Grill or roast the vegetables (see Lab 30) while you make the sauce. (Fig. 2)
3. Cut the butter into 16 pieces. (Fig. 3)
4. Add the wine (if using) and vinegar to a medium or large skillet. Turn the heat up to medium high.
5. Add the shallots (if using) to the liquid.
6. Reduce the liquid by boiling it down to a syrupy glaze and remove it from the heat. (Fig. 4)
7. Immediately whisk in two lumps of cold butter. If you’re making the wine-free version, add the cream here.
8. Set the pan back on the stove over low heat and continue to whisk in the butter a piece at a time, adding a new one each time the previous one melts.
9. When the last piece of butter has melted, turn the heat off and taste the sauce. Add salt and pepper to season.
10. Serve the sauce with fish, chicken, or sweet corn. (Fig. 5)
11. Buerre Blanc is delicious on vegetables and rice too. (Fig. 6)
Toss homemade pasta (Lab 22) with beurre blanc or drizzle it over roasted potatoes (Lab 31).
SAFETY TIPS AND HINTS
The alcohol in wine evaporates during cooking, but there is a wine-free alternative for those who prefer it.