Chapter 2

Selling and Your Personal Finances

IN THIS CHAPTER

check Considering the economics of “trading up”

check Grappling with downsizing your home, renting, or taking a reverse mortgage in retirement

check Understanding tax issues when selling

Buying a home can seriously shake up your personal finances. But selling your house and then buying another one generally leads to even bigger financial shock waves. If you’re considering the sale of your house, you may think, “No big deal. After all, the sale will pay off my mortgage debt and bring a big chunk of money my way. What do I have to stress over?”

In fact, the financial consequences of selling your house can be serious, especially if you’re trading up to a more expensive home. You must be well prepared and alert as you sail through the often treacherous waters of house selling. Consider this chapter your first mate, helping you make all the best moves you can.

Trading Up

Many people who still are in their prime working years and who want to sell their house and buy another in the same general geographic area are planning to “trade up,” which usually means moving into a “better” — and, therefore, more expensive — home. The desire to trade up is only natural; people usually want their next car, their next job, and their next set of living room or bedroom furniture to be better than the last. After all, you work hard for a living; you deserve “better.”

A nicer neighborhood, better schools, more rooms, bigger rooms, more luxurious bathrooms, a more spacious kitchen, better shopping nearby, a bigger yard, better parking and storage space — the list of things that can be better in your life is limitless. Your budget, on the other hand, is not.

Although you may want all these extra features and amenities in the next home you buy, those extra goodies are going to cost more money — in some cases, much more. So unless you’ve recently won the lottery or earned a huge windfall from stock options or the like, you’re going to have to prioritize your desires. You probably can’t have it all — only what fits with your budget and longer-term financial and personal plans.

Examining your housing budget

Before you set out to trade in your current house for a “better” one, you need to take a good look at your overall budget and determine how much more, if any, of your monthly spending can go toward housing costs. If you haven’t examined your monthly budget in a while, now is the time to do so — before you set the wheels in motion to trade up to a more expensive home.

Review your bank-account and credit-card transactions, paychecks, most recent year’s tax return, and anything else that helps you document where you’ve been spending your money during the past 6 to 12 months. You may also need to do some tracking or estimating of cash purchases that don’t leave an electronic or paper trail. Table 2-1 can help you to organize your spending by category.

TABLE 2-1 Figure Your Spending, Now and After a Home Purchase

Item

Current Monthly Average Spending in Your Current Home ($)

Expected Monthly Average Spending in Your Next Home ($)

Income

_____________

_____________

Taxes

Social Security

_____________

_____________

Federal

_____________

_____________

State and local

_____________

_____________

Housing expenses

Mortgage

_____________

_____________

Property taxes

_____________

_____________

Gas/electric/oil

_____________

_____________

Water/garbage

_____________

_____________

Phone

_____________

_____________

Cable TV

_____________

_____________

Furniture/appliances

_____________

_____________

Maintenance/repairs

_____________

_____________

Food and eating

Supermarket

_____________

_____________

Restaurants and takeout

_____________

_____________

Transportation

Gasoline

_____________

_____________

Maintenance and repairs

_____________

_____________

State registration fees

_____________

_____________

Tolls and parking

_____________

_____________

Bus or subway fares

_____________

_____________

Appearance

Clothing

_____________

_____________

Shoes

_____________

_____________

Jewelry/watches

_____________

_____________

Dry cleaning

_____________

_____________

Haircuts

_____________

_____________

Makeup

_____________

_____________

Other

_____________

_____________

Debt repayments

Credit cards and charge cards

_____________

_____________

Auto loans

_____________

_____________

Student loans

_____________

_____________

Other

_____________

_____________

Fun stuff

Entertainment (movies, concerts, and so on)

_____________

_____________

Vacation and travel

_____________

_____________

Gifts

_____________

_____________

Hobbies

_____________

_____________

Pets

_____________

_____________

Health club or gym

_____________

_____________

Other

_____________

_____________

Advisors

Accountant

_____________

_____________

Attorney

_____________

_____________

Financial advisor

_____________

_____________

Healthcare

Physicians and hospitals

_____________

_____________

Drugs

_____________

_____________

Dental and vision

_____________

_____________

Therapy

_____________

_____________

Insurance

Homeowners

_____________

_____________

Auto

_____________

_____________

Health

_____________

_____________

Life

_____________

_____________

Disability

_____________

_____________

Educational expenses

Courses and tuition

_____________

_____________

Books

_____________

_____________

Supplies

_____________

_____________

Kids

Day care

_____________

_____________

Toys

_____________

_____________

Other

_____________

_____________

Charitable donations

_____________

_____________

Other

_______________

_____________

_____________

_______________

_____________

_____________

_______________

_____________

_____________

_______________

_____________

_____________

_______________

_____________

_____________

Total spending

_____________

_____________

Amount saved (subtract “Total spending” line from “Income”)

_____________

_____________

Figuring your expected expenses after trading up

Knowing how you spend your money now on housing and other items is only half the picture. You also need to know how much you’ll spend after buying your next home.

In Table 2-1, we shaded the Housing expenses category in the “Current” and “Expected” columns for a reason. These expenses probably are going to change the most when you sell your current house and buy a new home.

To help you fill in the holes in the expected costs column, check out these areas:

  • Mortgage payment: Unless you’ve been squirreling away extra savings while living in your current house, the total amount you’re borrowing through your mortgage (and, therefore, your monthly mortgage payment) will probably increase if you trade up. By using our handy-dandy mortgage payment calculator in Table 2-2, you can calculate the approximate monthly mortgage payment you’ll face in your new home.

    tip To calculate your monthly loan payment, multiply the relevant number from Table 2-2 by the total amount you’re borrowing, expressed in (that is to say, divided by) thousands of dollars. So, for example, if you intend to borrow $200,000 at 4.5 percent interest on a 30-year mortgage, you multiply 200 by 5.07 (from Table 2-2) to come up with a monthly payment of $1,014.

  • Property taxes: In most communities, the annual property taxes you pay on your next home purchase initially are set at a percentage of the property value. To find out the property tax rate in the area where you plan to purchase your new home, simply call the local tax collector, assessor, or other taxing authority (you can generally find these phone numbers online or in the government section of your local phone directory if you have access to one).

    warning Don’t base your property tax estimate on the amount the seller of the home you’re interested in buying is currently paying or on the amount you’re paying on your present house. When you trade up, the taxes on the home may be reassessed upward.

  • Utilities: If you’re trading up, some of your utility bills — such as cable TV — may stay the same, but others may change. Until you have in mind a specific home to buy, you can’t request hard numbers on utility usage. In the interim, make some educated estimates.

    For example, if you’re planning on moving into a larger home in your area with, say, 30 percent more square footage, you can estimate that your heating and electric bills will increase by about 30 percent. However, if you’re moving from an old, energy-inefficient home into a newer and more efficient one, the new home may not cost you more in utilities even if it’s a bit larger.

  • Furniture: If you buy a larger home, you’ll have more space to fill, so you’re probably going to spend more money on furnishings. Make a reasonable estimate of how much you expect to spend on new furnishings.

    tip If and when you trade up, remember the amount you budgeted for new furnishings; some trade-up buyers get carried away with redecorating and decimate their budgets after they move into their new properties.

  • Maintenance: If you’re buying a more expensive home, you’re probably also going to spend more on maintenance, even if the home isn’t a fixer-upper. A good way to estimate your annual maintenance costs is to multiply the purchase price of the home by 1 percent (use 1.25 percent of the purchase price for older and more run-down properties).
  • Federal and state income taxes: If you buy a more expensive home and have larger mortgage payments and property taxes, your income tax bill will probably go down. Why? Mortgage interest and property taxes are deductible expenses on Schedule A of your federal income tax Form 1040 and on most state returns.
  • Homeowners insurance: If you buy a more expensive home, your homeowners insurance premiums may increase. In the absence of a specific quote for a property you’re interested in buying, you can estimate that your homeowners insurance costs will increase in proportion to the increased size (square footage) of your home. Because land isn’t insured, ignore the extra land that may come with your next home.

TABLE 2-2 Mortgage Payment Calculator

Interest

Term of Mortgage

Rate (%)

15 Years

30 Years

4

7.40

4.77

4⅛

7.46

4.85

7.52

4.92

4⅜

7.59

4.99

7.65

5.07

4⅝

7.71

5.14

7.78

5.22

4⅞

7.84

5.29

5

7.91

5.37

5⅛

7.98

5.45

8.04

5.53

5⅜

8.11

5.60

8.18

5.68

5⅝

8.24

5.76

8.31

5.84

5⅞

8.38

5.92

6

8.44

6.00

6⅛

8.51

6.08

8.58

6.16

6⅜

8.65

6.24

8.72

6.33

6⅝

8.78

6.41

8.85

6.49

6⅞

8.92

6.57

7

8.99

6.66

7⅛

9.06

6.74

9.13

6.83

7⅜

9.20

6.91

9.28

7.00

7⅝

9.35

7.08

9.42

7.17

7⅞

9.49

7.26

8

9.56

7.34

8⅛

9.63

7.43

9.71

7.52

8⅜

9.78

7.61

9.85

7.69

8⅝

9.93

7.78

10.00

7.87

8⅞

10.07

7.96

9

10.15

8.05

9⅛

10.22

8.14

10.30

8.23

9⅜

10.37

8.32

10.45

8.41

9⅝

10.52

8.50

10.60

8.60

9⅞

10.67

8.69

10

10.75

8.78

10⅛

10.83

8.87

10¼

10.90

8.97

10⅜

10.98

9.06

10½

11.06

9.15

Some lucky folks can squeeze higher housing costs into their budgets without having to cut spending in other expense categories or fall short of their savings goals. If your budget has that much padding, terrific!

But most people need to cut some fat from their budgets to afford spending more on housing. If you hope to someday retire or be able to help pay for a portion of your children’s college costs, you have to be realistic about how much you need to save and how much you can afford to spend on housing and other expenses.

Determining the financial impact on your future goals

Before you trade up to a more expensive home, in addition to analyzing how the move affects your current financial picture, you also need to examine how it’s going to affect your future financial goals.

One such goal that many people share is to enjoy a comfortable retirement. If you completed Table 2-1 earlier in this chapter, you can see that the additional monthly housing expenses from a trade-up put the squeeze on — and can possibly even eliminate — your ability to save money. And if you end up contributing less to your tax-deductible retirement savings plans, your income taxes will increase.

tip Before you even consider trading up to a more expensive home, do yourself a big favor and make some savings calculations for your retirement and other important financial goals. If you completed the budgeting exercise in Table 2-1 (earlier in this chapter), you have a good idea about how much you’re currently saving from your monthly income and how much you may save if you trade up. Of course, you may discover that you aren’t even saving enough money right now, before trading up, to meet your long-term goals. In this case, trading up to a more expensive home is highly inadvisable.

Exploring the other costs of trading up

If you trade up to a more expensive home, your ongoing, monthly housing expenses are sure to increase. But those aren’t all the additional costs you’ll encounter.

Finding a new home to buy and selling your current one requires that you expend dozens, perhaps even hundreds, of hours of your precious free time. And if you hire real estate agents and others to help you with all the transactions, you’re going to spend a good deal of money for their services.

And then there’s moving — a stressful, time-consuming ordeal to get all your belongings (and family members!) to your new abode. Unless you have scads of free time and enjoy hauling heavy boxes and furniture, you’re likely to end up spending thousands of dollars paying a moving company to help you.

warning Before you go in search of your next great home, you need to understand all the one-time fees involved in trading up and moving. Otherwise, you may run out of money and be forced to use high-interest consumer credit, or worse. In Chapter 3, we walk you through all the important considerations and calculations so you don’t have any financial surprises upsetting your proposed move.

Making Retirement Housing Decisions

If you’re an older homeowner, your home equity — the difference between the market value of your home and the outstanding mortgage(s) on it — can be one of your largest (if not your largest) assets. Many folks nearing retirement and retirees who own their homes find that their home equity is surprisingly large. Why? First, if all goes well, the value of your property increases over the years. Second, all those years of monthly mortgage payments add up; by the time you’re ready to retire, your mortgage balance should be low or even zero.

Your house’s equity can help supplement the cost of your retirement … with or without selling. Of course, the obvious option is selling your house and buying or renting something less expensive. The less-obvious option is taking out a reverse mortgage that provides you with income based on your home’s equity without selling your home. In this section, we cover these important options along with important tax and personal issues that you need to weigh before deciding what to do with your home when you retire.

Trading down

Perhaps, when you’re in your living room, you hear more noise than you used to notice. Or one day, you just can’t muster the desire to skim the leaves out of the pool that no one swims in anymore. And ever since your daughter went off to college, maybe you get a hollow feeling when you walk past her empty bedroom. You suddenly realize, now that the kids have moved out of the house, you have more space than you really need or want.

Even if you don’t have kids, you may find that, now that you’re no longer working, you don’t need to live within driving distance of the city where you spent your entire life working. You suddenly have the freedom to step out of the rat race and move to a place where life moves a bit more slowly (and costs a bit less).

If you’re like most near or actual retirees, these feelings may also accompany the realization that you don’t have as much money to live on during your retirement as you want. You may be “house rich and cash poor,” or, to put it another way, you have “more house than you need and less cash than you want.”

Don’t despair! You’re in an enviable position if you have a house with a good deal of equity in it. Now may be the time for you to trade down — sell your current house and either buy a less expensive home or become a renter. For some seniors, trading down is a wise move that can simultaneously meet financial and emotional needs.

(Huge) tax perk for house sellers

As we discuss in detail in Chapter 16, house sellers can shield a big portion of their house sales profits from taxation. Single taxpayers can avoid capital gains taxation on up to $250,000 and couples filing jointly up to $500,000 of profit.

As long as you lived in the house as your primary residence for at least two of the previous five years, this tax exclusion is available to you without age restriction, and you can take the exclusion as many times as you want (but no more than once every two years).

This law (passed in 1997) is more expansive than the old exclusion rules, which required you to be at least 55 years old. (The old rules allowed you to take an exclusion only once per lifetime, and even then allowed an exclusion of up to only $125,000 in house sales profit from capital gains taxation.)

Presuming that you’re willing to sell your primary residence, the new house sales tax law makes it easier to convert your home equity directly into liquid investments you can live off during retirement. Of course, such a strategy requires you to either trade down or become a renter. Trading to an equal cost or more expensive home won’t free up more of your money.

Renting versus trading down

Usually, trading down is financially savvier than becoming a renter. If you’re able to pay for your new home in cash, your housing costs during retirement could be greatly reduced.

The price range you should consider depends on a couple of factors:

  • How much other money do you have for retirement? If you’re really pinched for money to live on during retirement, you may be willing to buy a considerably less expensive home to free up more money for living expenses. Until you run some retirement projections to see where you stand, however, you won’t know how much or how little you need to carve off your home’s equity. And, as we cover in the next section, you can use a reverse mortgage to tap into your property’s equity while you still live there.
  • What do you want to buy? If your retirement dream is to live on New York’s Upper West Side or near the water in Hawaii, you may not be able to trade down much. However, if living in Manhattan is more your idea of a retirement nightmare than a dream, and you want to scale down and move out to the countryside, you can probably spend much less on your next home.

Some people sell their houses and simply rent in retirement. By selling, you free up all the money invested in your house and make it available to live on or do with as you desire. And when you rent, you have more flexibility to move in the future.

warning If you’re considering the sale of your house and becoming a renter in retirement, be aware of these potential drawbacks:

  • Exposure to rental inflation: As a renter, unless you live in a unit protected by local rental-control ordinances, your monthly rental payment is fully exposed to inflation. Today, $1,000 per month in rent may not sound like a mountain of cash, but consider that, with annual increases of only 4 percent, in 20 years, your rent will mushroom to nearly $2,200 per month. With 6 percent annual rental increases — which can happen if the United States returns to a 1970s-style period of higher inflation — that $1,000 monthly rent balloons to more than $3,200. Ouch!
  • Obeying your landlord: As a homeowner, you get to call the shots. You can change the interior and exterior of your home as you please. As a renter, you’re largely at the mercy and whims of your landlord. If you’re used to owning your own home and not having to answer to a landlord, adjusting to the realities of tenant life can be difficult. So, if you do sell and return to the ranks of renters, spend as much time inspecting and interviewing your prospective landlord as you do examining the rental unit. Remember that your landlord can sell the building, possibly forcing you to move again — with added expenses.

Researching reverse mortgages

If you’re happy with your home but want more money to live on in retirement, a reverse mortgage may be for you. If you’re house rich but cash poor, a reverse mortgage enables you to tap into the equity in your home while you still live in it.

However, if you’re like most older homeowners, you’ve worked so hard for many years to eliminate a mortgage and get your darn home “paid for” that the thought of reversing that process and rebuilding the debt owed on your home is troubling. Reverse mortgages are loan vehicles that few people understand. And most of today’s reverse mortgage borrowers are low-income, single seniors who’ve run out of other money for living expenses.

Thus, it isn’t too surprising that people who don’t fully understand reverse mortgages often have preconceived, mostly negative notions about how they work. Your first reaction may be to say, “I don’t want to be forced out of my home; I could end up owing more than the house is worth.”

Rid yourself of those notions. You won’t be forced out of your home, and you (or your heirs) won’t end up owing more than your house is worth. Federal law requires that reverse mortgages be non-recourse loans, which simply means the home’s value is the only asset that can be tapped to pay the reverse mortgage debt balance. In the rare case when a home’s value does drop below the amount owed on the reverse mortgage, the lender must absorb the loss.

remember Some reverse mortgages are good, many are mediocre, and some are just plain bad. The best reverse mortgages merit your consideration. A good reverse mortgage enables you to cost-effectively tap your home’s equity and enhance your retirement income. So if you have bills to pay, want to buy some new carpeting, need to paint your home, or simply feel like eating out and traveling more, a good reverse mortgage can be your salvation.

Reverse mortgage basics

So what exactly is a reverse mortgage, and how does it work? Well, as the name suggests, a reverse mortgage reverses the traditional mortgage process. Think back to when you bought your first home. Unless you had generous and affluent relatives, you probably had to scrape together the money for the down payment and seeming never-ending closing costs. And then you were likely saddled with what seemed like a mountain of mortgage debt.

Every month, thereafter, you dutifully mailed to the mortgage lender a check for the monthly mortgage payment. In the early years of your mortgage, a major portion of those monthly mortgage payments went to pay interest on your outstanding loan balance, but a small amount of each of payment went toward lowering the principal, or in other words, reducing the loan balance. (As the years roll by, the loan balance should pay down at a faster and faster rate until, eventually, your mortgage is paid off.)

A reverse mortgage reverses that process. When you take out a reverse mortgage, the mortgage lender typically sends you a monthly check. Imagine that! You can spend the check any way your heart desires. And, because the check represents a loan, the payment to you isn’t taxable.

As the reverse mortgage lender gives you more payments, you accumulate an outstanding loan balance. You typically don’t have to pay back your reverse mortgage loan until the home is sold (and then the loan and the accrued interest is paid back from the sale proceeds) or, with most reverse mortgage programs, when you move out of the property.

Reverse mortgage payment options

The whole point of taking out a reverse mortgage on your home is to receive money that is drawn from the equity you have in your home. How much can you tap? That amount depends mostly on how much your home is worth, how old you are, and the interest and other fees that a given lender charges. The more your home is worth, the older you are, and the lower the interest rate and other fees a lender charges, the more you should realize from a reverse mortgage.

You can decide how you want to receive your reverse mortgage money:

  • Monthly: Most people need monthly income to live on. Thus, a commonly selected reverse mortgage payment option is monthly. However, not all monthly payment options are created equal. Some reverse mortgage programs commit to a particular monthly payment for a preset number of years, and other programs make payments as long as you continue living in your home or for life. Not surprisingly, if you select a reverse mortgage program that pays you for the rest of your life, you’re going to receive less monthly, probably a good deal less, than from a program that pays you for a fixed number of years.
  • Line of credit: Rather than receiving a monthly check, you can simply create a line of credit from which you draw money by writing a check, whenever you need income. Because interest doesn’t start accumulating on a loan until you actually borrow money, the advantage of a credit line is that you pay for only what you need and use. If you have fluctuating and irregular needs for additional money, a line of credit may be for you. Because you have to take the initiative to draw on a line of credit, some thrifty seniors have a hard time tapping and spending the money. The size of the line of credit is either set at the time you close on your reverse mortgage loan or may increase over time.
  • Lump sum: The least beneficial type of reverse mortgage is the lump sum option. When you close on this type of reverse mortgage, you receive a check for the entire amount that you were approved to borrow. Lump sum payouts usually only make sense if you have an immediate need for a substantial amount of cash for some purpose, such as wanting to gift money to family or to make a major purchase.
  • Mix and match: Perhaps you need a large chunk of money soon for some purchases you’ve been putting off, but you also want the security of a regular monthly income. You can usually put together combinations of the preceding three programs. Some reverse mortgage lenders even allow you to alter the payment structure as time goes on. Not all reverse mortgage lenders offer all the combinations, so shop around even more if you’re interested in mixing and matching your payment options.

The costs of reverse mortgages

Reverse mortgage lenders, of course, aren’t charities; they make money on reverse mortgages by charging an interest rate on the amount borrowed and by collecting other fees. Although many of the costs of a reverse mortgage are similar to those charged on a traditional mortgage loan, some are unique. On a reverse mortgage, you typically see these types of fees:

  • Interest: As with a traditional mortgage, the interest rate on a reverse mortgage can either be fixed or adjustable. Fixed-rate loans offer peace of mind because you know upfront what your loan’s interest rate will be. However, you typically end up paying more interest over the life of the loan for the security of a stable interest rate.

    With adjustable-rate reverse mortgages, the overall level of market interest rates determines your loan’s future interest rate. If you get an adjustable-rate mortgage and rates significantly increase, your outstanding loan balance increases faster, thus leaving less equity for the day when your home is finally sold. Odds are better, though, that an adjustable-rate loan will save you on interest costs over the long run because interest rates rarely skyrocket and remain elevated. Because you’re taking on additional risks with an adjustable loan, you’ll probably owe less total interest on your reverse mortgage with more equity remaining for you and your heirs after your house is sold.

    tip Fixed-rate reverse mortgages make the most sense for seniors who anticipate using their loans over a number of years — preferably seven or more. Fixed-rate loans also help you sleep better at night if you’re the type who frets over fluctuating interest rates.

  • Upfront fees: Most reverse mortgage lenders charge you fees for processing your application, fees for pulling a copy of your credit report, and other fees for originating your loan.
  • Closing costs: Your reverse mortgage lender will want to appraise your home to determine its worth. This appraisal helps determine how much you can borrow on your home. The more your home is worth, the more money a reverse mortgage lender lets you tap from your home’s equity. Other common closing costs include title insurance, local recording fees, and inspections.
  • Insurance costs: When a reverse mortgage lender commits to giving you a reverse mortgage, the institution is taking a risk. If you live much longer than the lender expects, and your home’s future value falls far short of the expected worth, the reverse mortgage lender can lose money if the amount of your outstanding loan balance exceeds the value of your home. To reduce the risk, mortgage lenders buy insurance. And guess what? You get to pay for the insurance, either as a yearly fee (sometimes called a risk pooling fee) or as a percentage of your home’s value when you take out your reverse mortgage.

    A reverse mortgage insurance premium of up to 2.5 percent of the home’s value is payable at closing. This premium is just 0.5 percent if you take no more than 60 percent of the approved funds. In addition to the upfront insurance charge paid at closing, there is also an annual mortgage insurance premium of 1.25 percent of your reverse mortgage balance. This ongoing premium accumulates and is owed and paid once your loan ends and is paid back.

  • A portion of your home’s value or future appreciation: Some reverse mortgages include an additional cost. On some loans, this cost is based on a portion of the appreciation in your home’s value from when your reverse mortgage began. On other loans, this added cost is a portion of the value of your home when your reverse mortgage is ultimately paid off from the sale of your home.

tip Understanding and shopping for reverse mortgages takes time and patience. Don’t rush the process. A number of nonprofit counseling agencies, supported through government funding, stand ready to assist you with sorting through the reverse mortgage options in your area. At the state level, check with the Department of Aging; at the local level, check with the Area Agency on Aging (call the Eldercare Locator Service at 800-677-1116 or visit its website at www.eldercare.gov/ for the agency nearest you). We also encourage you to pick up a copy of the latest edition of Mortgage Management For Dummies (which Eric co-wrote with Robert S. Griswold) for its wealth of useful material about all types of mortgages, including reverse mortgages.

Tax Facts Sellers and Landlords Ought to Know

You can exclude from taxation a large amount of profits on the sale of a house: up to $250,000 for single taxpayers and $500,000 for couples filing jointly. Conditions are relatively lax: The seller must have used the property as his or her principal residence for at least two of the previous five years. The exclusion is allowed as many times as a taxpayer sells a principal residence but no more than once every two years.

warning If you’re considering renting your home, even for just a short time, after you move out of it and before you sell it, tread carefully! After you’ve converted your house into rental property, you can’t avoid taxation on the profits from that property simply by purchasing another primary residence. See Chapter 18 for more details.

We don’t mean to frighten you out of turning your house into a rental property. You don’t lose all your tax breaks; you get different ones. If you decide to turn a property into a rental, and then later sell it, you can roll over your capital gain into another “like kind” investment real estate property. Currently, the IRS broadly defines what a “like kind” property is. It allows you, for example, to exchange undeveloped land for a multi-unit rental building. Just remember that the IRS draws a sharp line between a primary residence and a rental property, and it won’t let you roll profits over that line.

The rules for rolling over a gain from one rental property to another (called a 1031 exchange) are strict. To begin with, you’re allowed little time to complete the rollover — only six months — and you must also identify a replacement property within 45 days of the sale of the first property. You aren’t allowed to handle the proceeds: They must pass through an escrow account. Because of the complexity of the transaction, please do yourself a favor and find an attorney and/or tax advisor who can guide you through the process and ensure that you do it right.

remember Before you consider converting your home into a rental property, in addition to understanding the tax issues that we just discussed, also weigh the following:

  • How do you feel about being a landlord? Managing a rental property takes time, patience, and knowledge of local rent-control laws. Some tenants are a pain, and premises occasionally need repairs. You can hire a property manager, but this service costs money, and finding a good one can be a challenge.
  • What about wear and tear? If you’ve gone to great lengths to make your house immaculate, realize that renters aren’t going to treat your home with the same loving care that you gave it. Although you can protect your interests somewhat by securing from your tenants a large security deposit (at least one month’s rent), you can’t expect them to pay for the inevitable and gradual wear and tear.

    tip For documentation purposes, you may also videotape the interior of the rental, including the condition of floors, walls, and so on. Beware, though; you may find that, at the end of the lease, your tenants disagree with you over what you think is unreasonable wear and tear.

  • What’s the cash flow? Tally up all the monthly property expenses that you anticipate and compare that amount with the expected rental income. If you’ve recently bought your property or have little equity in it, you may be unable to turn a profit. The worst-case scenario is that the additional monthly cash drain cramps your budget and causes you to accumulate consumer debt or underfund your tax-deductible retirement accounts.

See Chapter 18 for more information about selling rental property.

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