Chapter 2
IN THIS CHAPTER
Considering the economics of “trading up”
Grappling with downsizing your home, renting, or taking a reverse mortgage in retirement
Understanding tax issues when selling
Buying a home can seriously shake up your personal finances. But selling your house and then buying another one generally leads to even bigger financial shock waves. If you’re considering the sale of your house, you may think, “No big deal. After all, the sale will pay off my mortgage debt and bring a big chunk of money my way. What do I have to stress over?”
In fact, the financial consequences of selling your house can be serious, especially if you’re trading up to a more expensive home. You must be well prepared and alert as you sail through the often treacherous waters of house selling. Consider this chapter your first mate, helping you make all the best moves you can.
Many people who still are in their prime working years and who want to sell their house and buy another in the same general geographic area are planning to “trade up,” which usually means moving into a “better” — and, therefore, more expensive — home. The desire to trade up is only natural; people usually want their next car, their next job, and their next set of living room or bedroom furniture to be better than the last. After all, you work hard for a living; you deserve “better.”
A nicer neighborhood, better schools, more rooms, bigger rooms, more luxurious bathrooms, a more spacious kitchen, better shopping nearby, a bigger yard, better parking and storage space — the list of things that can be better in your life is limitless. Your budget, on the other hand, is not.
Although you may want all these extra features and amenities in the next home you buy, those extra goodies are going to cost more money — in some cases, much more. So unless you’ve recently won the lottery or earned a huge windfall from stock options or the like, you’re going to have to prioritize your desires. You probably can’t have it all — only what fits with your budget and longer-term financial and personal plans.
Before you set out to trade in your current house for a “better” one, you need to take a good look at your overall budget and determine how much more, if any, of your monthly spending can go toward housing costs. If you haven’t examined your monthly budget in a while, now is the time to do so — before you set the wheels in motion to trade up to a more expensive home.
Review your bank-account and credit-card transactions, paychecks, most recent year’s tax return, and anything else that helps you document where you’ve been spending your money during the past 6 to 12 months. You may also need to do some tracking or estimating of cash purchases that don’t leave an electronic or paper trail. Table 2-1 can help you to organize your spending by category.
TABLE 2-1 Figure Your Spending, Now and After a Home Purchase
Item |
Current Monthly Average Spending in Your Current Home ($) |
Expected Monthly Average Spending in Your Next Home ($) |
Income |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Taxes |
||
Social Security |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Federal |
_____________ |
_____________ |
State and local |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Housing expenses |
||
Mortgage |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Property taxes |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Gas/electric/oil |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Water/garbage |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Phone |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Cable TV |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Furniture/appliances |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Maintenance/repairs |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Food and eating |
||
Supermarket |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Restaurants and takeout |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Transportation |
||
Gasoline |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Maintenance and repairs |
_____________ |
_____________ |
State registration fees |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Tolls and parking |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Bus or subway fares |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Appearance |
||
Clothing |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Shoes |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Jewelry/watches |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Dry cleaning |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Haircuts |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Makeup |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Other |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Debt repayments |
||
Credit cards and charge cards |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Auto loans |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Student loans |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Other |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Fun stuff |
||
Entertainment (movies, concerts, and so on) |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Vacation and travel |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Gifts |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Hobbies |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Pets |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Health club or gym |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Other |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Advisors |
||
Accountant |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Attorney |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Financial advisor |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Healthcare |
||
Physicians and hospitals |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Drugs |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Dental and vision |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Therapy |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Insurance |
||
Homeowners |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Auto |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Health |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Life |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Disability |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Educational expenses |
||
Courses and tuition |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Books |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Supplies |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Kids |
||
Day care |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Toys |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Other |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Charitable donations |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Other |
||
_______________ |
_____________ |
_____________ |
_______________ |
_____________ |
_____________ |
_______________ |
_____________ |
_____________ |
_______________ |
_____________ |
_____________ |
_______________ |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Total spending |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Amount saved (subtract “Total spending” line from “Income”) |
_____________ |
_____________ |
Knowing how you spend your money now on housing and other items is only half the picture. You also need to know how much you’ll spend after buying your next home.
In Table 2-1, we shaded the Housing expenses category in the “Current” and “Expected” columns for a reason. These expenses probably are going to change the most when you sell your current house and buy a new home.
To help you fill in the holes in the expected costs column, check out these areas:
Mortgage payment: Unless you’ve been squirreling away extra savings while living in your current house, the total amount you’re borrowing through your mortgage (and, therefore, your monthly mortgage payment) will probably increase if you trade up. By using our handy-dandy mortgage payment calculator in Table 2-2, you can calculate the approximate monthly mortgage payment you’ll face in your new home.
To calculate your monthly loan payment, multiply the relevant number from Table 2-2 by the total amount you’re borrowing, expressed in (that is to say, divided by) thousands of dollars. So, for example, if you intend to borrow $200,000 at 4.5 percent interest on a 30-year mortgage, you multiply 200 by 5.07 (from Table 2-2) to come up with a monthly payment of $1,014.
Property taxes: In most communities, the annual property taxes you pay on your next home purchase initially are set at a percentage of the property value. To find out the property tax rate in the area where you plan to purchase your new home, simply call the local tax collector, assessor, or other taxing authority (you can generally find these phone numbers online or in the government section of your local phone directory if you have access to one).
Don’t base your property tax estimate on the amount the seller of the home you’re interested in buying is currently paying or on the amount you’re paying on your present house. When you trade up, the taxes on the home may be reassessed upward.
Utilities: If you’re trading up, some of your utility bills — such as cable TV — may stay the same, but others may change. Until you have in mind a specific home to buy, you can’t request hard numbers on utility usage. In the interim, make some educated estimates.
For example, if you’re planning on moving into a larger home in your area with, say, 30 percent more square footage, you can estimate that your heating and electric bills will increase by about 30 percent. However, if you’re moving from an old, energy-inefficient home into a newer and more efficient one, the new home may not cost you more in utilities even if it’s a bit larger.
Furniture: If you buy a larger home, you’ll have more space to fill, so you’re probably going to spend more money on furnishings. Make a reasonable estimate of how much you expect to spend on new furnishings.
If and when you trade up, remember the amount you budgeted for new furnishings; some trade-up buyers get carried away with redecorating and decimate their budgets after they move into their new properties.
TABLE 2-2 Mortgage Payment Calculator
Interest |
Term of Mortgage |
|
Rate (%) |
15 Years |
30 Years |
4 |
7.40 |
4.77 |
4⅛ |
7.46 |
4.85 |
4¼ |
7.52 |
4.92 |
4⅜ |
7.59 |
4.99 |
4½ |
7.65 |
5.07 |
4⅝ |
7.71 |
5.14 |
4¾ |
7.78 |
5.22 |
4⅞ |
7.84 |
5.29 |
5 |
7.91 |
5.37 |
5⅛ |
7.98 |
5.45 |
5¼ |
8.04 |
5.53 |
5⅜ |
8.11 |
5.60 |
5½ |
8.18 |
5.68 |
5⅝ |
8.24 |
5.76 |
5¾ |
8.31 |
5.84 |
5⅞ |
8.38 |
5.92 |
6 |
8.44 |
6.00 |
6⅛ |
8.51 |
6.08 |
6¼ |
8.58 |
6.16 |
6⅜ |
8.65 |
6.24 |
6½ |
8.72 |
6.33 |
6⅝ |
8.78 |
6.41 |
6¾ |
8.85 |
6.49 |
6⅞ |
8.92 |
6.57 |
7 |
8.99 |
6.66 |
7⅛ |
9.06 |
6.74 |
7¼ |
9.13 |
6.83 |
7⅜ |
9.20 |
6.91 |
7½ |
9.28 |
7.00 |
7⅝ |
9.35 |
7.08 |
7¾ |
9.42 |
7.17 |
7⅞ |
9.49 |
7.26 |
8 |
9.56 |
7.34 |
8⅛ |
9.63 |
7.43 |
8¼ |
9.71 |
7.52 |
8⅜ |
9.78 |
7.61 |
8½ |
9.85 |
7.69 |
8⅝ |
9.93 |
7.78 |
8¾ |
10.00 |
7.87 |
8⅞ |
10.07 |
7.96 |
9 |
10.15 |
8.05 |
9⅛ |
10.22 |
8.14 |
9¼ |
10.30 |
8.23 |
9⅜ |
10.37 |
8.32 |
9½ |
10.45 |
8.41 |
9⅝ |
10.52 |
8.50 |
9¾ |
10.60 |
8.60 |
9⅞ |
10.67 |
8.69 |
10 |
10.75 |
8.78 |
10⅛ |
10.83 |
8.87 |
10¼ |
10.90 |
8.97 |
10⅜ |
10.98 |
9.06 |
10½ |
11.06 |
9.15 |
Some lucky folks can squeeze higher housing costs into their budgets without having to cut spending in other expense categories or fall short of their savings goals. If your budget has that much padding, terrific!
But most people need to cut some fat from their budgets to afford spending more on housing. If you hope to someday retire or be able to help pay for a portion of your children’s college costs, you have to be realistic about how much you need to save and how much you can afford to spend on housing and other expenses.
Before you trade up to a more expensive home, in addition to analyzing how the move affects your current financial picture, you also need to examine how it’s going to affect your future financial goals.
One such goal that many people share is to enjoy a comfortable retirement. If you completed Table 2-1 earlier in this chapter, you can see that the additional monthly housing expenses from a trade-up put the squeeze on — and can possibly even eliminate — your ability to save money. And if you end up contributing less to your tax-deductible retirement savings plans, your income taxes will increase.
If you trade up to a more expensive home, your ongoing, monthly housing expenses are sure to increase. But those aren’t all the additional costs you’ll encounter.
Finding a new home to buy and selling your current one requires that you expend dozens, perhaps even hundreds, of hours of your precious free time. And if you hire real estate agents and others to help you with all the transactions, you’re going to spend a good deal of money for their services.
And then there’s moving — a stressful, time-consuming ordeal to get all your belongings (and family members!) to your new abode. Unless you have scads of free time and enjoy hauling heavy boxes and furniture, you’re likely to end up spending thousands of dollars paying a moving company to help you.
If you’re an older homeowner, your home equity — the difference between the market value of your home and the outstanding mortgage(s) on it — can be one of your largest (if not your largest) assets. Many folks nearing retirement and retirees who own their homes find that their home equity is surprisingly large. Why? First, if all goes well, the value of your property increases over the years. Second, all those years of monthly mortgage payments add up; by the time you’re ready to retire, your mortgage balance should be low or even zero.
Your house’s equity can help supplement the cost of your retirement … with or without selling. Of course, the obvious option is selling your house and buying or renting something less expensive. The less-obvious option is taking out a reverse mortgage that provides you with income based on your home’s equity without selling your home. In this section, we cover these important options along with important tax and personal issues that you need to weigh before deciding what to do with your home when you retire.
Perhaps, when you’re in your living room, you hear more noise than you used to notice. Or one day, you just can’t muster the desire to skim the leaves out of the pool that no one swims in anymore. And ever since your daughter went off to college, maybe you get a hollow feeling when you walk past her empty bedroom. You suddenly realize, now that the kids have moved out of the house, you have more space than you really need or want.
Even if you don’t have kids, you may find that, now that you’re no longer working, you don’t need to live within driving distance of the city where you spent your entire life working. You suddenly have the freedom to step out of the rat race and move to a place where life moves a bit more slowly (and costs a bit less).
If you’re like most near or actual retirees, these feelings may also accompany the realization that you don’t have as much money to live on during your retirement as you want. You may be “house rich and cash poor,” or, to put it another way, you have “more house than you need and less cash than you want.”
Don’t despair! You’re in an enviable position if you have a house with a good deal of equity in it. Now may be the time for you to trade down — sell your current house and either buy a less expensive home or become a renter. For some seniors, trading down is a wise move that can simultaneously meet financial and emotional needs.
As we discuss in detail in Chapter 16, house sellers can shield a big portion of their house sales profits from taxation. Single taxpayers can avoid capital gains taxation on up to $250,000 and couples filing jointly up to $500,000 of profit.
As long as you lived in the house as your primary residence for at least two of the previous five years, this tax exclusion is available to you without age restriction, and you can take the exclusion as many times as you want (but no more than once every two years).
This law (passed in 1997) is more expansive than the old exclusion rules, which required you to be at least 55 years old. (The old rules allowed you to take an exclusion only once per lifetime, and even then allowed an exclusion of up to only $125,000 in house sales profit from capital gains taxation.)
Presuming that you’re willing to sell your primary residence, the new house sales tax law makes it easier to convert your home equity directly into liquid investments you can live off during retirement. Of course, such a strategy requires you to either trade down or become a renter. Trading to an equal cost or more expensive home won’t free up more of your money.
Usually, trading down is financially savvier than becoming a renter. If you’re able to pay for your new home in cash, your housing costs during retirement could be greatly reduced.
The price range you should consider depends on a couple of factors:
Some people sell their houses and simply rent in retirement. By selling, you free up all the money invested in your house and make it available to live on or do with as you desire. And when you rent, you have more flexibility to move in the future.
If you’re happy with your home but want more money to live on in retirement, a reverse mortgage may be for you. If you’re house rich but cash poor, a reverse mortgage enables you to tap into the equity in your home while you still live in it.
However, if you’re like most older homeowners, you’ve worked so hard for many years to eliminate a mortgage and get your darn home “paid for” that the thought of reversing that process and rebuilding the debt owed on your home is troubling. Reverse mortgages are loan vehicles that few people understand. And most of today’s reverse mortgage borrowers are low-income, single seniors who’ve run out of other money for living expenses.
Thus, it isn’t too surprising that people who don’t fully understand reverse mortgages often have preconceived, mostly negative notions about how they work. Your first reaction may be to say, “I don’t want to be forced out of my home; I could end up owing more than the house is worth.”
Rid yourself of those notions. You won’t be forced out of your home, and you (or your heirs) won’t end up owing more than your house is worth. Federal law requires that reverse mortgages be non-recourse loans, which simply means the home’s value is the only asset that can be tapped to pay the reverse mortgage debt balance. In the rare case when a home’s value does drop below the amount owed on the reverse mortgage, the lender must absorb the loss.
So what exactly is a reverse mortgage, and how does it work? Well, as the name suggests, a reverse mortgage reverses the traditional mortgage process. Think back to when you bought your first home. Unless you had generous and affluent relatives, you probably had to scrape together the money for the down payment and seeming never-ending closing costs. And then you were likely saddled with what seemed like a mountain of mortgage debt.
Every month, thereafter, you dutifully mailed to the mortgage lender a check for the monthly mortgage payment. In the early years of your mortgage, a major portion of those monthly mortgage payments went to pay interest on your outstanding loan balance, but a small amount of each of payment went toward lowering the principal, or in other words, reducing the loan balance. (As the years roll by, the loan balance should pay down at a faster and faster rate until, eventually, your mortgage is paid off.)
A reverse mortgage reverses that process. When you take out a reverse mortgage, the mortgage lender typically sends you a monthly check. Imagine that! You can spend the check any way your heart desires. And, because the check represents a loan, the payment to you isn’t taxable.
As the reverse mortgage lender gives you more payments, you accumulate an outstanding loan balance. You typically don’t have to pay back your reverse mortgage loan until the home is sold (and then the loan and the accrued interest is paid back from the sale proceeds) or, with most reverse mortgage programs, when you move out of the property.
The whole point of taking out a reverse mortgage on your home is to receive money that is drawn from the equity you have in your home. How much can you tap? That amount depends mostly on how much your home is worth, how old you are, and the interest and other fees that a given lender charges. The more your home is worth, the older you are, and the lower the interest rate and other fees a lender charges, the more you should realize from a reverse mortgage.
You can decide how you want to receive your reverse mortgage money:
Reverse mortgage lenders, of course, aren’t charities; they make money on reverse mortgages by charging an interest rate on the amount borrowed and by collecting other fees. Although many of the costs of a reverse mortgage are similar to those charged on a traditional mortgage loan, some are unique. On a reverse mortgage, you typically see these types of fees:
Interest: As with a traditional mortgage, the interest rate on a reverse mortgage can either be fixed or adjustable. Fixed-rate loans offer peace of mind because you know upfront what your loan’s interest rate will be. However, you typically end up paying more interest over the life of the loan for the security of a stable interest rate.
With adjustable-rate reverse mortgages, the overall level of market interest rates determines your loan’s future interest rate. If you get an adjustable-rate mortgage and rates significantly increase, your outstanding loan balance increases faster, thus leaving less equity for the day when your home is finally sold. Odds are better, though, that an adjustable-rate loan will save you on interest costs over the long run because interest rates rarely skyrocket and remain elevated. Because you’re taking on additional risks with an adjustable loan, you’ll probably owe less total interest on your reverse mortgage with more equity remaining for you and your heirs after your house is sold.
Fixed-rate reverse mortgages make the most sense for seniors who anticipate using their loans over a number of years — preferably seven or more. Fixed-rate loans also help you sleep better at night if you’re the type who frets over fluctuating interest rates.
Insurance costs: When a reverse mortgage lender commits to giving you a reverse mortgage, the institution is taking a risk. If you live much longer than the lender expects, and your home’s future value falls far short of the expected worth, the reverse mortgage lender can lose money if the amount of your outstanding loan balance exceeds the value of your home. To reduce the risk, mortgage lenders buy insurance. And guess what? You get to pay for the insurance, either as a yearly fee (sometimes called a risk pooling fee) or as a percentage of your home’s value when you take out your reverse mortgage.
A reverse mortgage insurance premium of up to 2.5 percent of the home’s value is payable at closing. This premium is just 0.5 percent if you take no more than 60 percent of the approved funds. In addition to the upfront insurance charge paid at closing, there is also an annual mortgage insurance premium of 1.25 percent of your reverse mortgage balance. This ongoing premium accumulates and is owed and paid once your loan ends and is paid back.
You can exclude from taxation a large amount of profits on the sale of a house: up to $250,000 for single taxpayers and $500,000 for couples filing jointly. Conditions are relatively lax: The seller must have used the property as his or her principal residence for at least two of the previous five years. The exclusion is allowed as many times as a taxpayer sells a principal residence but no more than once every two years.
We don’t mean to frighten you out of turning your house into a rental property. You don’t lose all your tax breaks; you get different ones. If you decide to turn a property into a rental, and then later sell it, you can roll over your capital gain into another “like kind” investment real estate property. Currently, the IRS broadly defines what a “like kind” property is. It allows you, for example, to exchange undeveloped land for a multi-unit rental building. Just remember that the IRS draws a sharp line between a primary residence and a rental property, and it won’t let you roll profits over that line.
The rules for rolling over a gain from one rental property to another (called a 1031 exchange) are strict. To begin with, you’re allowed little time to complete the rollover — only six months — and you must also identify a replacement property within 45 days of the sale of the first property. You aren’t allowed to handle the proceeds: They must pass through an escrow account. Because of the complexity of the transaction, please do yourself a favor and find an attorney and/or tax advisor who can guide you through the process and ensure that you do it right.
What about wear and tear? If you’ve gone to great lengths to make your house immaculate, realize that renters aren’t going to treat your home with the same loving care that you gave it. Although you can protect your interests somewhat by securing from your tenants a large security deposit (at least one month’s rent), you can’t expect them to pay for the inevitable and gradual wear and tear.
For documentation purposes, you may also videotape the interior of the rental, including the condition of floors, walls, and so on. Beware, though; you may find that, at the end of the lease, your tenants disagree with you over what you think is unreasonable wear and tear.
See Chapter 18 for more information about selling rental property.