Chapter 14

Negotiating Strategies for Sellers

IN THIS CHAPTER

check Mastering your feelings to control your sale

check Understanding the negotiating process

check Demystifying purchase offers and counteroffers

check Exploring techniques for negotiating from positions of strength or weakness

check Separating real buyers from fakes

check Handling deal-making credits in escrow

Bargaining isn’t part of this country’s mass-marketing culture. You’d be laughed out of your friendly neighborhood McDonald’s if you tried haggling with the counter person over the price of your Big Mac. Americans don’t generally dicker to drive prices down. Instead, they comparison shop on the Internet or drive from shopping center to shopping center to find lower prices.

Face it. Whether you’re aware of it or not, all the ads that you read in newspapers, hear on the radio, and see on TV through the years eventually take their toll. With most consumer products other than cars, we’ve been conditioned for generations to docilely pay the sticker price. (As we discuss in Chapter 11, smart sellers know how to use this conditioning to their advantage when pricing houses.)

Like it or not, you must sit at the bargaining table if you offer your house for sale to the public. Even if you’re not the haggling sort, you certainly don’t want to sell your house for less than it’s really worth. And you have every right to be cautious regarding the advice of real estate agents and others involved in your transaction who stand to profit from a quick sale.

Knowing your house’s worth, which we cover in Chapter 10, isn’t enough. You must also be a good negotiator to minimize the chances of being forced into accepting a crummy offer and to maximize the proceeds from your house’s sale.

We can’t offer you a magical, one-size-fits-all, guaranteed best negotiating strategy you can use in every situation because no such strategy exists. Smart sellers adjust their negotiating strategies to accommodate such factors as whether they’re dealing from a position of strength or weakness, how well-priced their houses are, how motivated the buyers are, and, of course, how motivated they, themselves, are.

remember Negotiation doesn’t have to be complicated. On the contrary, good negotiation is based on a few simple concepts. Apply the concepts in this chapter to your negotiations to maximize the chances of getting precisely what you want when you sell your house.

Mastering Your Feelings

Unless you’re an unquenchable emotional vampire, the massive pulses of intense feelings radiating from both sides of the bargaining table will quickly drain your energy. House sales are usually emotional roller coasters for everyone involved. You probably still bear the emotional scars from the turmoil you endured as a homebuyer.

Now, as a house seller, you’re about to sit on the other side of the table. If you don’t get enough from the sale, you may not be able to buy your next dream home. Buyers may accuse you of being greedy if you try to sell your house for a great deal more than you paid for it. Conversely, buyers won’t shed any tears if you lose money when you sell; it’s not their fault the local economy went as soft as a jelly doughnut.

Consider the powerful emotions acting on you when you sell your house:

  • Big needs: Food, security, and shelter are the three most basic necessities of life. Like two bears fighting for a single cave, you and the buyers will do verbal battle over a place to live.
  • Big egos: The house you’re about to sell is your castle. If buyers or their agents attempt to justify a low offering price for your house by citing its real and imagined flaws, your blood may boil.
  • Big money: Whether this house is the first you sell or the last, the money you have in it probably represents one of your largest investments. The amount of money you receive when you sell isn’t the issue. When major sums of real money are at stake, the emotional intensity for you and the buyer is just as great, no matter whether your house sells for $150,000 or $1.5 million.
  • Big changes: Selling a house would be stressful enough if you had to deal only with the impact of needs, egos, and money. Throw in a major life change, such as job relocation, marriage, divorce, birth, death, or retirement, and the result is an emotional minefield.

Putting emotions in their place

Suppose you’ve been trying for months, without success, to sell your house in a profoundly depressed real estate market. In your dreams, you find buyers who fall so blindly in love with the property that they simply must have it and eagerly offer to pay your modestly inflated asking price. You conveniently ignore the glaring reality that property values in your area have plummeted since you bought the house several years ago — a fact that ought to dash any hope of selling the property for the amount you paid for it.

Allowing such wishful thinking to seep into a negotiation can cost you dearly, but what choice do you have? Unless your heart is a lump of coal, how can you not get emotionally involved when you sell something you love that holds many dear memories (not to mention most of your hard-earned money)?

Because you can never eliminate emotions from the process of selling your house, the next best option is to understand and manage them. Your choice is simple: Either you control your emotions, or your emotions control you. People can’t upset you unless you let them. Folks who do the best job of controlling their emotions usually end up getting the best deals.

tip To control your emotions, try using the following time-tested tactics:

  • Keep your sale in perspective. Which would you rather have fail — your house sale or your open-heart surgery? No matter how bad circumstances are with the sale, keep reminding yourself that this isn’t a life-or-death situation. Tomorrow is another day. The sun will rise again, tulips will bloom again, and children will laugh again. Life goes on. If worse comes to worst, the deal will die — but you’ll survive to find another buyer.
  • Make time your ally. Even if you must sell because of some momentous life change — such as getting married or divorced, having a baby, or retiring — you probably have advance notice before the big event occurs. Don’t put yourself under needless pressure by procrastinating. Give yourself enough time to sell your house. Allocate time properly and it will be your friend, not your enemy.
  • Maintain an emotional arm’s length. Be prepared to walk away from a sale if you and the buyer can’t reach a satisfactory agreement on price and terms. Mentally condition yourself to the possibility that the deal may fall through; keep other options open. Buyers are like buses — if you miss one, another one comes along in a little while.
  • Get the facts. Use a comparable market analysis (CMA) to factually establish the fair market value (FMV) of your house (see Chapter 10). A good real estate agent can help in this area. If you’re like most people, having someone to buffer you from your unavoidable emotional involvement helps. Make sure you work with patient, not pushy, professionals who are committed to getting you the best deal.
  • Accept the unknown. You always have more questions than answers at the beginning of a deal. Don’t worry; you’ll be fine as long as you know what you need to find out (and guess what — this book tells you) and you get answers in a timely manner during your transaction.

Gaining detachment through an agent

Unlike you and the buyers, good real estate agents don’t take things personally. For example, your agent won’t be offended if the buyers say they hate the red-flocked wallpaper that you feel adds “just the right touch” to your den. On the contrary, your agent simply points out to the prospective buyers that they can easily customize the den with new wallpaper of their choosing. The buyers’ agent, by the same token, won’t be upset if your agent says the buyers’ offer for your exquisite house is ridiculously low.

remember Objectivity is easier for agents. After all, they’re not the ones who spent three months looking for appropriate wallpaper to put in the den. Nor are their life’s savings on the negotiating table. Good agents listen to what the market says a house is worth. If they don’t, the property doesn’t sell, and they don’t get paid. Agents don’t allow distracting details (such as how much time and money you spent fixing up the house or how little the buyers can afford to pay for it) to confuse negotiations. As Chapter 10 explains, these need-based issues have nothing to do with a house’s FMV.

Following Some Basic Rules

tip If you take the right steps, you end up in the right place. Your deal can practically take care of itself if you follow these basic negotiating guidelines:

  • Conduct all negotiations eyeball-to-eyeball. Never, not ever, no way, no how, let your agent or lawyer “save time” by using the phone to present a counteroffer or to negotiate important issues. It’s too easy for people to say “no” over the phone. Even if the buyers agree with everything you want during a phone conversation, they may change their minds when it’s time to actually sign on the dotted line.
  • Get everything in writing. Written contracts evolved from the muck and mire of legal quicksand because people have lousy memories. If you want your deal to be enforceable in a court of law, put all the terms in writing. Make a habit of writing short, dated MFRs (Memos For Record) of important conversations (such as, “June 2 — buyers’ agent said they’ll have loan approval by Friday,” “June 12 — buyers asked to extend close of escrow one week,” and so on).
  • Make sure deadlines are met. Real estate contracts are filled with deadlines for everything from contingency removals and deposit increases to the ultimate deadline, your close of escrow. Failure to meet each and every deadline can have dreadful consequences. Your deal may fall apart — you may even end up in a lawsuit. However, most deadlines are remarkably flexible. They can usually be lengthened or shortened by negotiation if the need for revision is properly explained and handled promptly with adequate lead time.

Surviving the Bargaining Process

Negotiation is like an escalator — both are a series of steps without a neatly defined beginning or end. Each step in the negotiating process begins by gathering information. Our goal for this book is to help you understand the procedure for selling a house. Your job is to translate this information into action that generates more information, which, in turn, leads to further action. And so it goes, until you sell your house.

You generally start the negotiating process by gathering information about real estate agents to select one to represent you. Next, you decide on an asking price for your house by gathering data on sale prices and asking prices of comparable houses. As you conduct this field research, you also prepare your house for sale by sprucing it up inside and out and by gathering information on its physical condition. This preliminary work sets the stage for the next action step in the negotiating process.

Receiving an offer to purchase

After your house goes on the market, you’re ready to begin the formal part of the negotiating process — receiving an offer to purchase. Unfortunately, no standard, universally accepted real estate purchase contract is used throughout the country. On the contrary, purchase contracts vary in length and terms from state to state and, within a state, from one locality to another. The contract you get reflects what, generally, the buyer’s agent or lawyer considers to be appropriate for your area.

In Appendix A, we include the California Association of Realtors’ Residential Purchase Agreement and Joint Escrow Instructions so you can see what a well-written, comprehensive residential real estate contract looks like. California’s contract is, legally speaking, well-tested and considered to be at the forefront of real estate purchase agreements. That fact is no surprise when you consider that, according to the California State Bar Association, one out of seven lawyers in the United States practices law in California.

warning A carelessly worded, poorly thought-out offer can turn a potentially productive negotiation into an adversarial struggle. Instead of working together to solve your common problem (that is, “I want to sell; you want to buy — how can we each get what we want?”), you and the buyer get sidetracked by issues that can’t be resolved so early in the negotiating process.

Although selling a house can be a highly emotional experience, good offers defuse this potentially explosive situation by replacing emotion with facts. Buyers and sellers have feelings that can be hurt. Facts don’t. That’s why facts are the foundation of successful negotiations.

investigate When you evaluate the offers you receive, check for the following characteristics because a good offer

  • Is based on the market value of your house as established by the sale of comparable property: Smart buyers don’t pull offering prices out of thin air. Instead, they base their offering price on properties comparable to your house in age, size, condition, and location that have sold within the past six months. As Chapter 10 explains, many house sellers’ asking prices are sheer fantasy. Sale prices of comparable houses are facts.
  • Has realistic loan terms: The buyers’ proposed mortgage interest rate, loan origination fee, and time allowed to obtain financing (which we explain in the upcoming section, “Dealing with contingencies — necessary uncertainty”) should be based on current lending conditions in your area. Ideally, the buyers are also preapproved for a mortgage, indicating they’re ready, willing, and financially able to purchase your house.
  • Doesn’t ask for a blank check: Unless property defects are glaringly obvious or you already have inspection reports on your property, neither you nor the buyers know whether the house needs corrective work when the offer is submitted. Under these circumstances, consider using property-inspection clauses (which we explain in the next section) that allow you and the buyer to reopen negotiations for any necessary corrective work after the buyers get their inspection reports.

If you agree with the price and terms of the buyer’s offer, all you have to do to indicate your approval is sign the offer. Your John Hancock turns the offer into a ratified contract (that is, a signed or accepted offer).

However, signing an offer does not mean you’ve sold your house. Because of the various contingencies contained in most contracts, ratified offers remain highly conditional until all contingencies are removed.

Dealing with contingencies — necessary uncertainty

Any offer you receive may contain some buyer escape clauses known as contingencies. A contingency gives buyers the right to pull out of the deal if some specific future event, such as getting a mortgage, fails to happen within a certain period of time.

remember Contingencies create uncertainty for you as a seller. The more contingencies buyers put into a contract, the more ways they have either to get out of the deal or to reopen negotiations for better terms. The upside for sellers is that the more the buyer knows about the house before moving in, the less chance there is of a lawsuit later claiming you withheld knowledge of important defects.

Most offers contain contingencies, unless you have mobs of people falling all over themselves to buy your house. The two most common contingencies are

  • Property inspection contingencies: Your house’s physical condition greatly affects its value. Smart purchasers insist on finding out exactly what shape your house is in before they buy it. If they don’t approve the inspection reports or can’t reach an agreement with you about handling corrective work for problems uncovered during the inspections, these contingencies let buyers bail out of transactions.
  • Financing contingencies: The buyers can withdraw from the contract if the mortgage specified in their contract isn’t approved. That provision is usually fine. If the buyers can’t get the loan they need to buy your house, there’s no point in going any further — unless you’re willing to risk personally offering them financing, a topic we discuss in Chapter 4.

Here’s a typical loan contingency:

“Conditioned [the magic word] upon buyer getting a 30-year, fixed-rate mortgage secured by the property in the amount of 80 percent of the purchase price. Said loan’s interest rate shall not exceed 4.5 percent. Loan fees/points shall not exceed 2 percent of loan amount. If buyer can’t obtain such financing within 30 days from acceptance of this offer, buyer must notify seller in writing of buyer’s election to cancel this contract and have buyer’s deposits returned.”

If you want to see a more detailed financing contingency, read paragraph 3 of the California Association of Realtors’ (C.A.R.) Residential Purchase Agreement in Appendix A. Read paragraphs 7.A, 11, 12, and 14 of the C.A.R. agreement to see how most common kinds of property inspections are handled contractually.

Other common contingencies give buyers the right to review and approve your property’s title report and, if you’re selling a condominium, the condo’s master deed, bylaws, and budget. Buyers can make their contracts contingent on other reasonable events, such as having their lawyers review and approve the contracts or having their parents inspect the house.

What good, you may wonder, is a ratified offer riddled with escape clauses so big you can drive a truck through them? We’re glad you asked.

  • From the buyers’ viewpoint, a contingency-filled ratified offer still shows your intention to sell them the property. The buyers don’t have to worry that you’ll sell the house to someone else while they’re spending time and money inspecting it.
  • From your perspective, a contingency-filled ratified offer ties up the buyers. If the buyers deposit earnest money (money given by a buyer to a seller to bind a contract) into escrow to prove that they aren’t toying with your affections and then spend hundreds of dollars more for inspections, they’re serious buyers. (By the way, there isn’t a standard earnest money deposit. The actual dollar amount varies from area to area, depending on local custom and practice.)

Making a counteroffer

Counteroffer forms are far less complicated than purchase offer forms. Take a look at the California Association of Realtors’ Seller Counter Offer in Figure 14-1, for example; it’s only a one-page form.

image

Source: Reprinted with permission, CALIFORNIA ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. Endorsement not implied.

FIGURE 14-1: A typical seller counteroffer form.

Counteroffers are short because you use them to fine-tune the terms and conditions of offers that you get from prospective buyers. If an offer contains unreasonable contingencies, use a counteroffer to propose that the buyer remove or modify them.

For example, paragraph 1.C of your counteroffer may say, “Buyers hereby agree to delete paragraph 40 of their purchase contract regarding Aunt Jane, the astronaut, inspecting the house when she returns from her trip to the moon.” After all, who knows how long her mission may be delayed in space? What if Aunt Jane falls in love with the man in the moon and never returns? That contingency is too spacey.

Or suppose that the buyers offer $275,000 for your house and want you to close escrow 30 days after accepting their offer. Because you’re asking $289,500, you think their offering price is a smidge low. Furthermore, you need six weeks to relocate.

If everything else in the buyers’ offer is fine with you, don’t rewrite the entire offer. Instead, give the buyers a counteroffer stating that you’ll accept all the terms and conditions except that you want $285,000 for your house and you need six weeks after the offer is accepted to close escrow.

Wham. The ball’s back in the buyers’ court. They review your counteroffer and decide a six-week close of escrow is okay, but they won’t pay more than $282,500. They zap you a counter counteroffer to that effect. You sign it to ratify the offer.

Define time frames with counteroffers

Reread the typical loan contingency near the beginning of this section. Note that it states that the buyers have 30 days after the offer is accepted to get approval for a mortgage. If the prospective buyers can’t get a loan within 30 days, you have the choice of either giving them a few more days to get financing or putting the house back on the market. Either way, you’re in control of the situation.

tip Good contingencies always have precisely defined time frames within which buyers must complete a specified action, negotiate the cost of a repair, or drop out of the contract. Never accept an open-ended contingency. For example, if buyers want their parents to inspect your house but don’t specify when that inspection will take place, counter them with “parental visit shall take place not more than three days after offer is accepted.” Be realistic but brisk when you set time frames. As a rule, the faster you close buyer escape hatches, the better. You don’t want your house off the market any longer than is absolutely necessary.

warning Think twice before accepting an offer that’s subject to the buyers selling their present house before buying yours. This is the ultimate open-ended contingency. It stigmatizes your house by driving away other prospective purchasers who can’t put their lives on indefinite hold while they wait to see whether the buyers sell their house.

tip If you accept a “subject to sale of buyer’s property” contingency, counter it with a release clause giving you the right to accept a better offer if one comes along. This provision is called a 72-hour release clause because sellers generally specify they can cancel a deal 72 hours after notifying the buyers that they’ve gotten another offer.

Why 72 hours? If the new offer comes in on Friday night, 72 hours gets the buyers through the weekend to the next business day in case they need to consult someone who’s only available weekdays during normal business hours.

Pick your battles selectively

A counteroffer is like a stick of dynamite. If you’re not careful, it can blow your fledgling deal to smithereens.

Making counteroffers is a great idea if you have a hot property. However, suppose you get your first offer six weeks, three days, and four hours (but who’s counting?) after putting your house on the market. You don’t have bunches of buyers banging on your front door to get your attention. You need to sell your house and get on with your life. Under these conditions, you can’t afford to squander your one and only live prospect.

tip If this scenario hits a little too close to home, follow these tips:

  • Don’t counter small stuff. Suppose the price and terms are okay, but the buyers want to include your ten-year-old washer and dryer in the sale. You want to take the washer and dryer with you to your new home, but what the heck. If they’re ten years old, the washer and dryer aren’t worth much now. And, if you leave them for the next owner, you won’t have to pay to move them to your new home. You can always buy a brand-new washer and dryer if the house sells. Buyers often act emotionally and then find reasons to justify their actions. If you accept the buyers’ offer, they’ll think how smart they were to have made it. Conversely, countering the offer may give them a reason to kill the deal and find a more “cooperative” seller.
  • Don’t kill the messenger. If the offering price is way below your price, don’t reflexively counter at full asking price. You (and your agent, if you’re using one) may have overpriced the house initially, or market conditions may have worsened since you put the property up for sale. As we discuss later in this chapter, a low offering price from a prospective buyer may accurately reflect your property’s current market value. Reanalyze your house’s FMV by examining up-to-date asking prices and sales of comparable properties. Don’t blow away a realistic buyer with an unrealistic counteroffer.
  • Stay focused on your goals. Suppose you want to move into a new school district before school starts. Although you don’t want to give your house away, ask yourself whether delaying the sale is worth protracted haggling over who’s going to pay for a couple of hundred dollars in repairs. Set your priorities and don’t take your eyes off your goals.

Negotiating from a Position of Strength

Hope springs eternal. So do motivated buyers and their agents — good market or bad. They gush from one new listing to another in high hopes that the next house they see will be that elusive “perfect home” for which they’ve been searching.

Hope is the reason most new listings get so many showings. Hope also explains why, in a strong real estate market, new listings that are “priced to sell” generate multiple offers. Knowing they’re in a multiple-offer situation puts buyers under tremendous pressure, which is wonderful for you, the seller.

In a sellers’ market, competition forces buyers to take their best shot right off the bat. When the supply of ready, willing, and financially able buyers exceeds the inventory of houses available for sale, smart buyers don’t play games.

If you’re a seller in a buyers’ market, don’t give up. Even in a weak market, well-priced, well-marketed, attractive new listings can and do draw multiple offers. If you follow our advice in Chapter 9 on preparing your house for sale and you use the smart pricing techniques we describe in Chapter 11, you can create your very own sellers’ market — even when everybody around you is experiencing a buyers’ market.

remember Death and taxes are sure things; multiple offers aren’t. Your property won’t generate the kind of excitement that produces multiple offers unless it really shines and is priced to sell.

Handling multiple offers

In quiet markets or when a house is overpriced, offers slowly dribble in one-by-one, and agents or buyers present them to sellers as soon as possible. That’s the customary way to handle offers throughout this great land.

Buyers and their agents are naturally paranoid. They suspect sneaky, dishonest behavior if sellers do anything that’s the least little bit out of the ordinary. Postponing the presentation of an offer is generally considered unusual.

Suppose you need 24 hours to respond to any offer you get because you must have your lawyer review it. Unless you explain the reason for your delay to the buyers, they’ll think you want to shop their offer. Shopping an offer means showing the offer to every other prospective buyer you and your agent can find in an attempt to get someone to make a higher offer.

remember Shopping an offer isn’t illegal, but it is considered unethical. Buyers have every right to expect their negotiations will be handled discretely. They don’t want the terms and conditions of their confidential offer blabbed to the world anymore than you want everyone to know all your innermost financial secrets. Reputable sellers like you never shop offers.

Smart buyers try to prevent you from shopping their offers by putting short fuses on them. In such cases, shades of Mission Impossible, their offers may contain a clause saying the offer expires if you don’t either accept or counter it immediately upon presentation.

tip In multiple-offer situations, presentations often are delayed. If you anticipate receiving multiple offers, develop a strategy for handling them before putting your house on the market. If you don’t, you’ll probably end up trying to calm down an angry mob of buyers and their agents waving offers with short fuses. Events can move quickly after you set in motion the marketing process we describe in Chapters 12 and 13.

Delaying presentation of offers

Why make buyers or their agents wait to submit offers? You want to be sure your property gets sufficient exposure to prospective buyers so you can generate multiple offers. Nothing is illegal or unethical about this technique. The key to success is alerting buyers and agents well in advance about the precise time you’ll start accepting offers and the way you’ll handle those offers when they come in.

tip How do you notify buyers and agents that you’re requiring a waiting period before considering offers? Simple. In the Comments section of the multiple-listing write-up and on your property’s listing statement, your agent can note the time when you’ll allow offers to be presented. Just to be safe, also instruct your agent to tell everyone who calls about the property that you’re delaying the presentation of offers.

warning Timing is critical. If your property’s market exposure is too short, you may accept an offer before a reasonable number of prospective buyers find out your house is on the market. Conversely, if you make people wait too long while you try to expose the property to every possible purchaser in the universe, some motivated buyers may show their displeasure by withdrawing their offers or never making one in the first place.

No time frame is perfect — long enough to expose the house to every potential purchaser, yet short enough to avoid losing even one buyer. Some buyers won’t get the word because they’re out of town on vacations or business trips when your house hits the market. Others won’t make an offer if they can’t present it immediately. Some people may refuse to get into a multiple-offer situation because they fear they’ll overpay for your house if they get into a bidding war.

tip To establish the waiting period before allowing presentation of multiple offers, try one of these two methods:

  • Ask your agent or lawyer whether your area has a commonly accepted protocol for handling multiple offers. You can’t go wrong doing business the same way most everyone else does. Don’t go against local custom and practice unless you delight in provoking suspicion.
  • If no standard protocol exists for your area, complete the initial marketing sequence we describe in Chapters 12 and 13 before starting the presentation process. As you expose the property to agents, they then schedule showings for their clients who may be interested in your house. To reach buyers who aren’t working with agents, delay presentations until your classified ad appears once in the local paper and you’ve had one Sunday open house.

Setting guidelines for an orderly presentation process

Unless you set firm ground rules early on, the presentation of offers may resemble the Oklahoma land rush. To ensure presentations are handled fairly for each and every prospective buyer (and productively for you), you or your agent (if you’re using one) should tell interested parties that the following guidelines are in effect:

  • Offers will be presented in the order in which you or your agent was notified that offers were pending. As buyers or their agents announce they have an offer to present, put their names on a list. What could be fairer than first come, first served? No one can accuse you of playing favorites.
  • Neither you nor your agent will accept offers before the designated formal presentation period. No one can accuse you of shopping offers if you don’t have any offers to shop!
  • Buyers or their agents can personally present offers directly to you and your agent. This rule reassures buyers and agents that offers will be presented in the best possible way without any filtering or shading. This approach is good for you because you can question buyers or their agents directly while evaluating the pros and cons of each offer you receive.

    warning Some sellers review multiple offers without permitting agent presentations. This approach speeds up the process because it keeps sellers from having to listen to endless twaddle about how wonderful buyers are, how much they love the house, how long they’ve been looking, and so on. Unfortunately, this practice enrages the losers because they all know they’d have won if only their offer had been presented properly. Upsetting potential buyers isn’t wise. You may need them later if the offer you initially accept falls through.

  • Tell prospective buyers in advance that you’ll either accept or counter the best offer you receive. Getting multiple offers doesn’t guarantee that any of the offers will be more than full asking price. However, if you announce in advance you won’t counter every offer, smart buyers make the best offer they can right off the bat. They know you don’t intend to give them a second chance if they submit a tire-kicking, “let’s leave room to negotiate” type of offer.

Selecting the best offer

By applying the astute marketing techniques and crafty pricing strategy we describe elsewhere in this book, you earn the right to dictate favorable terms and conditions of sale for yourself if you have multiple offers on your hands. Buyers know you have a hot property. The pressure is on them to please you. No reasonable request you make will be refused. Your wish is their command.

Whether you have three offers or 33 lying on the kitchen table, you face the same dilemma: selecting the best one. Price isn’t the sole criteria. The highest offer is far from best if it’s riddled with dubious escape clauses, totally out of sync with your time frames, or made by someone who’s a week or two away from declaring bankruptcy. What good is a high offer from a buyer who can’t or won’t perform?

warning Pitting buyers against each other is a double-edged sword. On the plus side, a bidding war can catapult the ultimate sale price above your asking price. You may, however, make a major mess of things if you’re not careful. You may scare off all the buyers by making absurdly high counteroffers. Worse yet, you may convert multiple offers into multiple lawsuits by inadvertently ratifying more than one offer.

tip As a seller in a sellers’ market, avoid snatching defeat from the jaws of victory by following these tips:

  • Think like a lender. In a strong sellers’ market, spirited buyer competition often pushes prices to new heights. Lenders usually support higher prices when they reflect an overall market trend and when the mortgage isn’t an excessively high percentage of the purchase price. You determine that percentage, called the loan-to-value ratio, by dividing the loan amount by the purchase price.

    remember From a lender’s perspective, the higher the loan-to-value ratio, the greater the risk that a buyer will default on the loan. So, as a rule, the lower the loan-to-value ratio, the better the chances of getting loan approval.

    Suppose you get two offers: One offer is $300,000 with a $225,000 (75 percent loan-to-value) loan contingency. The other is $310,000 with a $279,000 loan (90 percent loan-to-value). If the highest previous comparable sale in your area is $290,000, you’re smart to either accept or counter the $300,000 offer, as long as other terms and conditions of the two offers are about the same.

  • warning Don’t issue more than one counteroffer at a time. When faced with multiple offers, you have four options — accept one, counter one, counter more than one, or reject all offers. If you counter several offers, you may inadvertently end up in contract to sell your house to more than one buyer. This dreadful situation is known as double ratification. The resulting debacle can devastate you financially and emotionally. The one sure way to avoid this dreadful scenario is to follow this rule.

    warning Some states have Multiple Counter Offer forms designed to take the danger out of this option. Ask your agent if your state has such a form. Countering more than one offer at a time should never be done without the guidance of a real estate attorney.

  • Qualify buyers carefully. Commit the last section of this chapter (the one about real versus fake buyers) to memory. If you have a poor memory, put a bookmark in that section and keep this book by your side while evaluating prospective buyers. When you question agents about their buyers, scrutinize each purchaser’s creditworthiness, motivation to purchase, and deadline for when the transaction must be complete

    If you have any doubts about buyers’ financial qualifications, get their permission to contact the lenders directly to resolve your questions before accepting or countering their offers. A buyer who’s been preapproved for a loan by a reputable lender has a Good Borrower Seal of Approval — as long as the mortgage that buyer needs to buy your house doesn’t exceed the preapproved loan amount.

  • Pay as much attention to terms and conditions as you do to the price. Sometimes, a lower price beats a higher one. For example, when you evaluate offers, seek terms that fatten your bottom line. If you need a quick sale, the best buyer is the one who can close fastest. Then again, the best buyer may be the one who’ll let you rent your house back after the sale if you need a place to stay until the close of escrow on your new home.

    remember Price isn’t everything if you have other, more compelling needs.

  • warning Avoid conflicts of interest resulting from dual agency. Dual agency occurs when the same agent or real estate broker represents buyer and seller. If your listing agent also represents one of the people making an offer to buy your house, that agent has a conflict of interest, plain and simple. How can “your” agent get you the highest possible price and simultaneously help a buyer get the lowest possible price? Can “your” agent give you unbiased advice as you evaluate the other offers you receive? Read Chapter 7 for more information.

    Most real estate firms have procedures to handle dual agency. If your listing agent also develops a buyer, the agent’s sales manager or broker usually steps in to represent you during the presentation and evaluation of offers. This approach frees your agent to work with the buyer during this phase of the deal. However, if your listing agent is a sole practitioner, you may be wise to get a real estate lawyer or another outside expert to assist you.

Negotiating from a Position of Weakness

The opposite of multiple offers is no offers. Zero. Zip. None.

An absolute absence of offers may be caused by a horrendous real estate market plagued by a sagging economy, poor consumer confidence, and high mortgage rates. Like it or not, a divorce, job transfer, or some other major life change may compel you to sell in a rotten market. If it’s any consolation, you’ll probably recover the amount you lose as a seller by paying a proportionately lower price for your new home — unless you compound your misfortune by moving from a weak real estate market to a strong one.

However, suppose the economy is booming, consumers are wildly optimistic, and houses around you sell faster than you can say, “We’re outta here!” If you have a problem getting offers in such fertile ground, something is seriously wrong either with your property or your asking price. Review Chapter 9 to make sure you’ve done everything possible to spruce up your house, and Chapter 11 in case you inadvertently overpriced your property.

When either your price or property is flawed or your local market is stagnant, you may attract strange buyers bearing odd offers. The following sections offer tips to help you make the best of whatever comes your way.

Rejecting lowball offers

A lowball offer is one that’s far below a property’s true FMV. For example, if someone offers you $150,000 for your house when recent comparable sales data show it’s worth every penny of $300,000, that’s a lowball offer.

Lowball offers are typically made by unmotivated buyers trying to get a deal, by sharks who hope that you’re desperate and willing to negotiate, or by buyers who think that your property is overpriced. Serious, informed buyers know the difference between well-priced properties and overpriced turkeys. (See Chapter 10 for a brush-up on methods to determine your house’s FMV.)

Dealing with lowball offers

Suppose you just put your house up for sale. You priced it as close as humanly possible to its FMV. Two days after your house hits the market, you get an offer. Trembling with excitement, you open it. You don’t read any further than the absurdly low purchase price.

Either the buyers haven’t done their homework regarding comparable home sales, or they think you don’t know your house’s real value and they’re trying to exploit your ignorance, or they’re trying to steal your house. As a seller, you can handle people who lowball your well-priced house in one of two ways:

  • Let the buyers know their offer is totally unacceptable by having your agent return the offer unsigned. Why waste time making a counteroffer to people who are either idiots or scoundrels?
  • Make a full-price counteroffer. Show your contempt by hardballing the buyers on each and every term and condition in their offer. Two can play this self-destructive game. If they waste your time, you waste theirs. (Although emotionally satisfying, this response is lose-lose negotiating. We don’t recommend this approach.)

remember People who lowball a well-priced property destroy any chance of developing the mutual trust and sense of fair play on which cooperative negotiation is based. Real buyers know the difference between an offering price that gives them room to negotiate and a preposterous lowball offer.

Recognizing lowball offers that aren’t

An enormous difference exists between submitting an offer at the low end of a house’s FMV and lowballing. For example, suppose someone offers $240,000 for your house, listed at $249,500.

You based the asking price on the fact that comparable houses in your neighborhood recently sold in the $240,000 to $249,500 price range. You naturally opted to start at the high end of the range of FMVs. The buyer just as naturally began at the low end. Even though you and the buyer are $9,500 apart, each of you has a factual basis for your initial negotiating position.

As long as an offer is based on actual sales of comparable houses, it isn’t insulting. The $9,500 gap sparks a lively debate as you and the buyer try to defend your respective prices. A buyer who comes in on the low side of a property’s value is fine, as long as you have time to negotiate and you believe that the buyer is motivated. You can find out by countering with a price you’re willing to accept.

tip When you and a buyer come in on opposite ends of the fair market price range, the best defense is a good offense. You’re most likely to prevail in the pricing debate if you have an encyclopedic CMA and your agent is a strong negotiator who’s personally eyeballed all the comps. Follow our guidelines in Chapter 10.

Sometimes, a lowball offer is, in fact, a reality check. The offer isn’t a lowball offer if it accurately reflects current market values. Ironically, some sellers provoke low offers by unwise pricing. These sellers insist on leaving way too much room for negotiation in their prices because they “know” buyers never pay full asking price. Sound familiar?

Unfortunately, this practice becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. When buyers who know property values make an offer on a grossly overpriced house, their initial offering price appears to be much lower than it really is. What goes around comes around.

For example, suppose your house’s FMV is $300,000. You put it on the market at $360,000 to give yourself a 20 percent negotiating cushion. A buyer offers you $240,000, 20 percent less than FMV, for the exact same reason. You and the buyer start out $120,000 apart. You must do a heap of negotiating to bridge a gap that enormous.

tip Real buyers don’t play this game. They make an offer at the low end of your house’s FMV and see how you respond. If you refuse to accept facts about recent comparable sales in your neighborhood, real buyers don’t waste time trying to educate you. Instead, they take the path of least resistance and move on to find a real seller. If you keep receiving lowball offers, you probably have too much room to negotiate in your asking price.

Another possibility is that your asking price was close to FMV when you initially put the property on the market. However, in a weak market, prices keep declining. If your house has been for sale for months and the only offer you’ve gotten appears to be a lowball, have your agent review all recent sale prices of comparable houses before rejecting the offer. If prices are dropping like boulders, that “lowball” offer may be worth pursuing.

Considering other offers usually made in weak markets

When mortgage money is cheap and plentiful, deals are straightforward and simple. Buyers make cash down payments and get loans for the balance of the purchase price. Sellers use the proceeds from their sales to buy new homes.

However, when mortgage interest rates soared to more than 18 percent in the early 1980s, house sales activity plummeted. Buyers and sellers did some pretty unconventional maneuvering to transfer properties. Desperate times produce desperate measures.

When times get tough, unconventional purchasing techniques breed like bunnies. These next two offers don’t come from The Godfather. If you need to sell your house pronto, you can (and should) refuse them. But, under certain circumstances, the offers in the next two sections may make sense for you.

Lease-options

A lease-option is exactly what the name implies: a rental agreement to lease your house but with an option to buy the house in the future. Lease-option offers are triggered by high mortgage rates or are made by folks who have good incomes but haven’t managed to save enough cash yet to make a down payment.

If you must sell your house quickly to get the cash you need to buy a new home, read no further. A lease-option is too iffy. The house may or may not sell sometime during the lease’s term, depending on whether the renter elects to exercise the option to purchase.

tip Sometimes, however, a lease-option is the smart way to go. For example, suppose high mortgage rates or a sluggish local real estate market make selling your house tough. If you don’t need to sell right away and you must move soon, doing a lease-option helps you cover the house’s monthly ownership expenses until mortgage rates or the local market improves enough for you to sell.

A lease-option is actually two contracts rolled into one. Here’s how it works:

  • Lease: The lease differs from a standard rental contract in several ways. First of all, the lease has an option giving the renter a right to purchase your house anytime during the lease’s term. Second, the renter pays you a one-time fee called consideration in addition to the usual first month’s rent plus security deposit. You get the consideration in return for providing an option to purchase. If the renter exercises the option, the consideration is credited toward the renter’s down payment. Last, but not least, some of the rent usually is applied toward the down payment.
  • Purchase contract: Attached to the lease is a contract that specifies the price and terms of sale if the renter opts to exercise the option to purchase. What’s tricky about the purchase agreement is figuring out a purchase price that’s fair for you and the buyer six months or a year down the road when the buyer may exercise the option.

A lease-option is more complex than a regular sale because in addition to negotiating the future purchase’s price and terms, you also have to negotiate the following:

  • Option consideration: No standard fee exists for option consideration. This fee is totally negotiable based on the amount you’re willing to accept and the renter is willing to pay for an option to purchase your house.
  • Rent: The house’s rental value is usually easy to establish. If you and your agent don’t know rental values, get help from an agent who specializes in rentals.
  • Amount of rent applied toward the down payment: A lease-option’s rent usually is higher than the market rental value of a house because lease-option rent also is used as a forced savings plan.

For example, suppose your house’s normal rental value is $750 a month, and the renter agrees to pay you a $5,000 consideration for the option to purchase. Your lease-option contract stipulates that the buyer pays a $1,000-per-month rent, $300 of which goes toward a down payment. If the renter exercises the option after ten months, you credit the renter $8,000 ($5,000 option consideration plus $300 a month for ten months) toward the down payment. However, if the renter allows the option to lapse without exercising it, you keep the option consideration money and all the rent money.

tip Before you agree to a lease-option contract, consider why the renter may be willing to leave $8,000 on the table by failing to exercise the option. Maybe mortgage rates remain high and the renter can’t qualify for the loan needed to buy your house. Perhaps the renter can’t save enough additional cash for the down payment. Or, perchance, property values have plummeted, and your house isn’t worth the amount the renter would have to pay for it if the option is exercised. Under those circumstances, walking away from $8,000 is cheaper than paying what, with 20/20 hindsight, turns out to be a grossly inflated purchase price for your house.

Determining your house’s value in six months, a year, or whenever the renter exercises the option is the trickiest part of the deal. House prices go down — and up. If property values skyrocket during the term of the lease, your house may end up being worth much more than the amount you’d receive under the terms of your lease-option contract. Unforeseen fluctuations in property value make lease-options tricky for sellers as well as buyers.

remember The longer the term of the option, the greater the risk of dramatic swings in property value.

Nothing down

Creative financing was born of dire necessity in the early 1980s when interest rates were pushed to all-time highs by the Federal Reserve Board in an effort to stifle raging inflation. When mortgage rates hit 18 percent, only people who weren’t borrowing much in relation to their incomes could qualify for conventional financing.

Ordinary mortals glued deals together by assuming the existing, lower-interest-rate loans on properties and using seller financing to bridge any gap between their down payments plus assumed loan amounts and the purchase prices. We cover seller financing in Chapter 4, if you’re interested (pun intended).

The Frankenstein monster of creative financing is selling property to buyers who don’t pay one red cent of down payment. Unfortunately, the nothing-down advocates didn’t all go out of business when interest rates dropped back to normal. Some of these hucksters still peddle their seminars and how-to books to desperate buyers and vultures eager to learn new ways to fleece suckers.

warning Making nothing-down deals with unscrupulous, deadbeat “buyers” means they may live in your house rent-free for months while thumbing their noses at you as you go through the expensive, time-consuming foreclosure process. If well-intentioned but overextended nothing-down buyers fail to make their loan payments or pay the property taxes, you’ll also be forced to foreclose. Buyers who have no financial stake in a property can walk away from it whenever they please and stick you with the mess. Nothing-down deals don’t have an upside; they’re financial suicide for sellers. Do not, under any circumstances, get into a nothing-down deal!

As we discuss in Chapter 4, you may consider helping to finance the sale of your property. But get a decent down payment from the buyer, in addition to checking him out thoroughly.

Negotiating credits in escrow

In a really rotten market, even putting a “let’s sell it” price on your house may not be enough incentive to get the property sold. You may have to sweeten the deal by offering a buyer money in the form of seller-paid financial concessions. The two most common financial concessions are for nonrecurring closing costs and corrective work.

Nonrecurring closing costs

Nonrecurring closing costs are one-time charges a buyer incurs for such expenses as the loan appraisal, loan points, credit report, title insurance, and property inspections. This amount can be major money. Closing costs can total 3 percent to 5 percent of the purchase price.

Some sellers come right out and tell buyers that they’ll pay a portion or even all the nonrecurring closing costs to put a deal together. And, believe it or not, sometimes paying a buyer’s nonrecurring closing costs is more effective than reducing your asking price by the exact same amount of money.

tip Even if you don’t offer to pay their nonrecurring closing costs, some buyers may ask for this concession as one of the terms in their offers. Getting this request is highly unlikely in a sellers’ market or if you’re in a multiple-offer situation.

A credit to the buyer for nonrecurring closing costs works like this. Suppose you recently ratified a contract to sell your house for $250,000. Your prospective buyer has $57,000 in cash for the purchase — enough, the buyer thought, to make a 20 percent down payment ($50,000) plus $7,000 to cover the closing costs.

Much to the buyer’s horror, the escrow officer says the nonrecurring closing costs total $10,000. Because only $7,000 was allocated for these fees, the buyer is $3,000 short of the total needed to buy your house.

About now, you may wonder, “What’s the big deal? Why not just reduce the purchase price to $247,000 instead of giving the buyer a $3,000 credit?” After all, your net proceeds of sale are the same either way, and reducing the purchase price is much less complicated. Furthermore, if property taxes in your area are based on a percentage of the purchase price, lowering the purchase price cuts the buyers’ annual tax bite.

Surprise. Assuming your buyer is short of cash (as most buyers are) and has no rich relatives or pals to tap for a loan, a credit is much better for the buyer than a price reduction. Here’s why.

Suppose you drop the house’s price to $247,000. A 20 percent down payment at the new price comes to $49,400. But if closing costs are $10,000, the buyer has only $47,000 left for the down payment. Even with a $3,000 price reduction, the buyer is $2,400 short of the amount needed for a 20 percent down payment.

If the buyer puts less than 20 percent down, the monthly loan costs significantly increase because the buyer must pay a higher interest rate on the mortgage plus private mortgage insurance costs. Under these circumstances, prudent buyers may decide to kill the deal and buy a less-expensive house.

Contrast the price-reduction scenario with one where the buyer pays $250,000 for the house and gets a $3,000 credit from you at closing for the nonrecurring closing costs. After putting 20 percent ($50,000) cash down to get the lowest-interest-rate loan, the buyer uses the remaining $7,000 plus your $3,000 credit to pay closing costs. Your credit makes the deal happen.

tip As an alternative to paying closing costs for your buyer, ask the buyer to check with the mortgage lender to see whether the lender will cut or eliminate the loan origination fee (points) if the buyer agrees to pay a slightly higher interest rate. This approach may reduce the buyer’s total closing costs enough to eliminate the need for a credit from you for nonrecurring closing costs.

warning In many communities, the lower the purchase price is, the lower the annual property taxes are. For that reason, buyers with plenty of cash go for a price reduction instead of a credit. Some agents, however, may lobby for a credit because cutting the price also cuts their commissions. That kind of thinking is bad for your bottom line. Good agents always put the client’s best interest ahead of their commission.

Corrective work

Typically, at the time the buyer submits an offer, neither you nor the buyer knows whether your property needs any corrective work. That uncertainty is why contracts usually have provisions for additional negotiations regarding credits for repairs after the necessary inspections are complete.

If property inspectors find that the property requires little or no corrective work, you and the buyer have little or nothing to negotiate. However, the inspectors may discover that your $200,000 house needs $20,000 of corrective work for termite and dry-rot damage plus major foundation repairs. Big corrective work bills can be deal killers.

tip Seeing is believing. We recommend that your agent (or you, if you’re selling the property by yourself) be present during every property inspection so you get firsthand reports about any damage the inspector discovers. The buyer should also give you copies of any and all inspection reports for your review before you meet with her to negotiate a corrective work credit.

This is the moment of truth in most house sales. Buyers don’t want to pay for corrective work; neither do sellers. Your deal will fall through if you and the buyer can’t resolve this impasse.

Pricing your house is one time when knowing everything about comparable houses that have sold in your area is critically important. Determining who pays for corrective work is the other time when you must know comparable sales data. If you heed our advice in Chapter 7 and hire an agent who knows neighborhood property values, your agent can forcefully present facts regarding the physical condition and terms of sale of other, supposedly comparable, properties during corrective work negotiations with the buyer and her agent.

For example, suppose your agent’s property analysis establishes, beyond any shadow of a doubt, that houses comparable to yours with no termite or dry-rot damage and foundations that make the Rock of Gibraltar look like mush are selling for $300,000. Because your house needs $20,000 of corrective work, it’s worth only $280,000 in its present condition.

remember At this point in the negotiations, it’s critically important that you accept the fact that your house’s value has just been slashed by the cost required to repair it. Don’t go into denial. You must face the facts. Good negotiators are realistic.

tip You have other options for resolving the impasse. For example, you can refuse to pay for repairs found by the buyer’s inspectors. You have the right to question the impartiality of the buyer’s inspectors and the validity of inspection reports for which the buyer paid. If these issues concern you, consider getting your own inspections to refute those of the buyer. Realize, however, that a good inspection will probably set you back several hundred dollars, and your inspectors may end up verifying the buyer’s inspector’s results or, worse yet, discovering additional corrective work. Instead of getting a second inspection, ask a licensed contractor to give you a bid for the repairs recommended by the buyer’s inspector. A good contractor may have alternative solutions for the problems which are much less expensive than the inspector’s estimates.

As a last resort, you can threaten to pull out of the deal if the buyer doesn’t back off on the demands. In a strong market, this strategy may work. However, sellers who kill the messenger often regret their decisions. Buyers don’t bring the damage with them, and, unfortunately for you, buyers won’t take the damage with them when you kick them out of the deal. Like it or not, you’re stuck with the damage.

As we point out in Chapter 8, even if you drive away buyers who discover damage to your house, you still may have a legal obligation to tell other buyers everything you found out about the required corrective work. Any such disclosure will probably lower the price a future buyer offers for your house. All things considered, working things out with the buyer who uncovers the damage is certainly much faster and probably no more expensive than waiting for another buyer.

Lenders also participate in corrective-work problems. They get copies of inspection reports if borrowers tell them that a serious repair problem exists, if their appraisal indicates property obviously needs major repairs, or if the contract contains a credit for extensive repairs.

tip You can solve repair problems in a variety of ways:

  • Ideally, you leave money for repairs in escrow and instruct the escrow officer to pay contractors as they complete the work. This approach offers several advantages. You avoid the dust and disruption of having work done while you’re still living in the house. Plus, you don’t incur liability for the workmanship. Let the buyer supervise the repairs to be sure the work is done properly by contractors the buyer chooses. Last, but not least, the lender knows the property will be restored to pristine condition, which enhances its loan value. Holding back seller funds for repairs after the close is far from a slam-dunk. Some escrow companies refuse to hold seller funds after the close or only hold them a short time. Chances are good the buyer’s lender will not approve a holdback. Most lenders insist repairs be made prior to close of escrow.
  • Alternatively, the lender withholds a portion of the full loan amount in an interest-bearing savings account until the corrective work is complete. In cases involving major corrective work, the lender may refuse to fund the entire loan amount until the problems are corrected.
  • You credit the buyers directly for corrective work at the close of escrow. Lenders usually don’t approve of this approach because it raises uncertainties about whether the corrective work will actually be completed. If it isn’t, the security of the lender’s loan is impaired. Most lenders will, however, allow credits for nonrecurring closing costs. The amount is generally limited by the actual amount of closing costs, although some allow a fixed percentage.

    tip Join with your buyer in obtaining competitive bids on the repair work from several reputable licensed contractors. Use bids to establish the amount of the corrective work credit. This approach doesn’t bother good buyers. They don’t want to get rich from your misfortune. All they want is what they thought they were buying in the first place — a well-maintained house without termite or dry-rot problems and with a good foundation.

Distinguishing Real Buyers from Fakes

Fake buyers don’t lie in wait like tigers itching to dig their claws into you for the thrill of killing your deal. The very thought that people would knowingly waste their time and money on an exercise in futility is ludicrous.

The key word is knowingly. All buyers start out thinking that they’re sincere. As their quest for a house continues, however, circumstances ultimately prove that some are phony.

Fake buyers usually mimic genuine buyers very cleverly (so cleverly, in fact, they often fool themselves for quite some time). Like real buyers, counterfeit buyers may have agents, read ads about houses for sale, and go to Sunday open houses. They outwardly appear to be the real McCoy. If you (and your listing agent, if you’re using one) don’t know how to detect fake buyers, you end up wasting time, energy, and money fruitlessly negotiating to sell your house to less-than-genuine prospects.

Identifying bogus buyers is easy if you know how. The following sections include five tests that you can use to spot the fakes.

Are the buyers creditworthy?

Real buyers are ready, willing, and financially able to purchase. Having two out of three of these attributes isn’t good enough. When so-called buyers don’t satisfy all three criteria, they’re phonies, regardless of whether they realize it. Genuine buyers want you to know they’re creditworthy. That’s why they’re willing to share important aspects of their financial situation at the time they present their offers, and perhaps even get preapproved or prequalified for a loan. In a strong local real estate market, smart, serious buyers seek preapproval or prequalification before making an offer.

tip People who make the offer to purchase your house subject to selling their present homes (which they haven’t yet put on the market) are fakes — don’t dignify their pseudo-offer with a written response.

Are the buyers realistic?

Real buyers familiarize themselves with property values and market conditions before making an offer to purchase. They, and their agents, use sale prices of houses comparable to yours in price, age, size, condition, and location to establish the FMV of your house. They know the difference between fairly priced properties and overpriced turkeys.

tip Real buyers may offer less than your asking price because they expect to negotiate prices and terms of sale. However, legitimate buyers who are willing to pay you the amount your house is worth don’t make a ludicrously low offer on your house if it’s priced to sell. Genuine buyers understand the concept of FMV.

Are the buyers motivated?

People don’t buy houses to generate commissions for real estate agents. Buyers often are motivated by a life change, such as wedding bells, a job transfer, family expansion, retirement, or a death in the family.

Lack of motivation almost always is a red flag. Establish the buyers’ motivation when you receive an offer. When buyers tell you they’re just testing the market, run as fast as you can in the opposite direction.

Do the buyers have a time frame?

Buyer deadlines are established by such factors as when they have to begin new jobs in another city, when the twins are due, when school starts, when the escrow is due to close on the house they’re selling, and so on. Bona fide buyers almost always have a time frame within which they must act.

remember Time is a powerful negotiating tool. If you’re under pressure to sell because you just got a promotion that forces you to move to another state next month and the buyer doesn’t have a deadline to purchase, time is your enemy and the buyer’s pal. Conversely, if the buyer sold a house in June and desperately needs to settle into a new home before school starts in September, the watch is on the other wrist. Ideally, you know the buyer’s deadline, but the buyer doesn’t know yours. Most real negotiation occurs near the very end of a deadline.

warning If the buyer doesn’t have a deadline but discovers you have one, the buyer can use your deadline to beat you to a pulp. Watch out for buyer procrastination. Don’t let time bully you — and keep your deadlines to yourself.

Are the buyers cooperative?

Real buyers look for ways to make deals go smoothly. They work with you to solve problems instead of creating problems and finding excuses to make the transaction more difficult. Genuine buyers have a let’s-make-it-happen attitude. They’re deal makers, not deal breakers.

warning Inconsistent behavior is a red flag. When buyers suddenly start missing contract deadlines or become strangely uncooperative, they may have lost their motivation. Perhaps the blushing bride-to-be decided to call off the wedding, or the “sure-thing” promotion wasn’t so certain, or they may have found another house they’d rather buy. Whatever. People can and do switch from being real buyers to fakes in mid-transaction. Find out why buyers are acting strangely as soon as you notice changes, and you may be able to head off the problem. If you ignore danger signs, you’ll never know what hit you if the sale blows up in your face.

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