Chapter 14
IN THIS CHAPTER
Mastering your feelings to control your sale
Understanding the negotiating process
Demystifying purchase offers and counteroffers
Exploring techniques for negotiating from positions of strength or weakness
Separating real buyers from fakes
Handling deal-making credits in escrow
Bargaining isn’t part of this country’s mass-marketing culture. You’d be laughed out of your friendly neighborhood McDonald’s if you tried haggling with the counter person over the price of your Big Mac. Americans don’t generally dicker to drive prices down. Instead, they comparison shop on the Internet or drive from shopping center to shopping center to find lower prices.
Face it. Whether you’re aware of it or not, all the ads that you read in newspapers, hear on the radio, and see on TV through the years eventually take their toll. With most consumer products other than cars, we’ve been conditioned for generations to docilely pay the sticker price. (As we discuss in Chapter 11, smart sellers know how to use this conditioning to their advantage when pricing houses.)
Like it or not, you must sit at the bargaining table if you offer your house for sale to the public. Even if you’re not the haggling sort, you certainly don’t want to sell your house for less than it’s really worth. And you have every right to be cautious regarding the advice of real estate agents and others involved in your transaction who stand to profit from a quick sale.
Knowing your house’s worth, which we cover in Chapter 10, isn’t enough. You must also be a good negotiator to minimize the chances of being forced into accepting a crummy offer and to maximize the proceeds from your house’s sale.
We can’t offer you a magical, one-size-fits-all, guaranteed best negotiating strategy you can use in every situation because no such strategy exists. Smart sellers adjust their negotiating strategies to accommodate such factors as whether they’re dealing from a position of strength or weakness, how well-priced their houses are, how motivated the buyers are, and, of course, how motivated they, themselves, are.
Unless you’re an unquenchable emotional vampire, the massive pulses of intense feelings radiating from both sides of the bargaining table will quickly drain your energy. House sales are usually emotional roller coasters for everyone involved. You probably still bear the emotional scars from the turmoil you endured as a homebuyer.
Now, as a house seller, you’re about to sit on the other side of the table. If you don’t get enough from the sale, you may not be able to buy your next dream home. Buyers may accuse you of being greedy if you try to sell your house for a great deal more than you paid for it. Conversely, buyers won’t shed any tears if you lose money when you sell; it’s not their fault the local economy went as soft as a jelly doughnut.
Consider the powerful emotions acting on you when you sell your house:
Suppose you’ve been trying for months, without success, to sell your house in a profoundly depressed real estate market. In your dreams, you find buyers who fall so blindly in love with the property that they simply must have it and eagerly offer to pay your modestly inflated asking price. You conveniently ignore the glaring reality that property values in your area have plummeted since you bought the house several years ago — a fact that ought to dash any hope of selling the property for the amount you paid for it.
Allowing such wishful thinking to seep into a negotiation can cost you dearly, but what choice do you have? Unless your heart is a lump of coal, how can you not get emotionally involved when you sell something you love that holds many dear memories (not to mention most of your hard-earned money)?
Because you can never eliminate emotions from the process of selling your house, the next best option is to understand and manage them. Your choice is simple: Either you control your emotions, or your emotions control you. People can’t upset you unless you let them. Folks who do the best job of controlling their emotions usually end up getting the best deals.
Unlike you and the buyers, good real estate agents don’t take things personally. For example, your agent won’t be offended if the buyers say they hate the red-flocked wallpaper that you feel adds “just the right touch” to your den. On the contrary, your agent simply points out to the prospective buyers that they can easily customize the den with new wallpaper of their choosing. The buyers’ agent, by the same token, won’t be upset if your agent says the buyers’ offer for your exquisite house is ridiculously low.
Negotiation is like an escalator — both are a series of steps without a neatly defined beginning or end. Each step in the negotiating process begins by gathering information. Our goal for this book is to help you understand the procedure for selling a house. Your job is to translate this information into action that generates more information, which, in turn, leads to further action. And so it goes, until you sell your house.
You generally start the negotiating process by gathering information about real estate agents to select one to represent you. Next, you decide on an asking price for your house by gathering data on sale prices and asking prices of comparable houses. As you conduct this field research, you also prepare your house for sale by sprucing it up inside and out and by gathering information on its physical condition. This preliminary work sets the stage for the next action step in the negotiating process.
After your house goes on the market, you’re ready to begin the formal part of the negotiating process — receiving an offer to purchase. Unfortunately, no standard, universally accepted real estate purchase contract is used throughout the country. On the contrary, purchase contracts vary in length and terms from state to state and, within a state, from one locality to another. The contract you get reflects what, generally, the buyer’s agent or lawyer considers to be appropriate for your area.
In Appendix A, we include the California Association of Realtors’ Residential Purchase Agreement and Joint Escrow Instructions so you can see what a well-written, comprehensive residential real estate contract looks like. California’s contract is, legally speaking, well-tested and considered to be at the forefront of real estate purchase agreements. That fact is no surprise when you consider that, according to the California State Bar Association, one out of seven lawyers in the United States practices law in California.
Although selling a house can be a highly emotional experience, good offers defuse this potentially explosive situation by replacing emotion with facts. Buyers and sellers have feelings that can be hurt. Facts don’t. That’s why facts are the foundation of successful negotiations.
If you agree with the price and terms of the buyer’s offer, all you have to do to indicate your approval is sign the offer. Your John Hancock turns the offer into a ratified contract (that is, a signed or accepted offer).
However, signing an offer does not mean you’ve sold your house. Because of the various contingencies contained in most contracts, ratified offers remain highly conditional until all contingencies are removed.
Any offer you receive may contain some buyer escape clauses known as contingencies. A contingency gives buyers the right to pull out of the deal if some specific future event, such as getting a mortgage, fails to happen within a certain period of time.
Most offers contain contingencies, unless you have mobs of people falling all over themselves to buy your house. The two most common contingencies are
Here’s a typical loan contingency:
“Conditioned [the magic word] upon buyer getting a 30-year, fixed-rate mortgage secured by the property in the amount of 80 percent of the purchase price. Said loan’s interest rate shall not exceed 4.5 percent. Loan fees/points shall not exceed 2 percent of loan amount. If buyer can’t obtain such financing within 30 days from acceptance of this offer, buyer must notify seller in writing of buyer’s election to cancel this contract and have buyer’s deposits returned.”
If you want to see a more detailed financing contingency, read paragraph 3 of the California Association of Realtors’ (C.A.R.) Residential Purchase Agreement in Appendix A. Read paragraphs 7.A, 11, 12, and 14 of the C.A.R. agreement to see how most common kinds of property inspections are handled contractually.
Other common contingencies give buyers the right to review and approve your property’s title report and, if you’re selling a condominium, the condo’s master deed, bylaws, and budget. Buyers can make their contracts contingent on other reasonable events, such as having their lawyers review and approve the contracts or having their parents inspect the house.
What good, you may wonder, is a ratified offer riddled with escape clauses so big you can drive a truck through them? We’re glad you asked.
Counteroffer forms are far less complicated than purchase offer forms. Take a look at the California Association of Realtors’ Seller Counter Offer in Figure 14-1, for example; it’s only a one-page form.
Counteroffers are short because you use them to fine-tune the terms and conditions of offers that you get from prospective buyers. If an offer contains unreasonable contingencies, use a counteroffer to propose that the buyer remove or modify them.
For example, paragraph 1.C of your counteroffer may say, “Buyers hereby agree to delete paragraph 40 of their purchase contract regarding Aunt Jane, the astronaut, inspecting the house when she returns from her trip to the moon.” After all, who knows how long her mission may be delayed in space? What if Aunt Jane falls in love with the man in the moon and never returns? That contingency is too spacey.
Or suppose that the buyers offer $275,000 for your house and want you to close escrow 30 days after accepting their offer. Because you’re asking $289,500, you think their offering price is a smidge low. Furthermore, you need six weeks to relocate.
If everything else in the buyers’ offer is fine with you, don’t rewrite the entire offer. Instead, give the buyers a counteroffer stating that you’ll accept all the terms and conditions except that you want $285,000 for your house and you need six weeks after the offer is accepted to close escrow.
Wham. The ball’s back in the buyers’ court. They review your counteroffer and decide a six-week close of escrow is okay, but they won’t pay more than $282,500. They zap you a counter counteroffer to that effect. You sign it to ratify the offer.
Reread the typical loan contingency near the beginning of this section. Note that it states that the buyers have 30 days after the offer is accepted to get approval for a mortgage. If the prospective buyers can’t get a loan within 30 days, you have the choice of either giving them a few more days to get financing or putting the house back on the market. Either way, you’re in control of the situation.
Why 72 hours? If the new offer comes in on Friday night, 72 hours gets the buyers through the weekend to the next business day in case they need to consult someone who’s only available weekdays during normal business hours.
A counteroffer is like a stick of dynamite. If you’re not careful, it can blow your fledgling deal to smithereens.
Making counteroffers is a great idea if you have a hot property. However, suppose you get your first offer six weeks, three days, and four hours (but who’s counting?) after putting your house on the market. You don’t have bunches of buyers banging on your front door to get your attention. You need to sell your house and get on with your life. Under these conditions, you can’t afford to squander your one and only live prospect.
Hope springs eternal. So do motivated buyers and their agents — good market or bad. They gush from one new listing to another in high hopes that the next house they see will be that elusive “perfect home” for which they’ve been searching.
Hope is the reason most new listings get so many showings. Hope also explains why, in a strong real estate market, new listings that are “priced to sell” generate multiple offers. Knowing they’re in a multiple-offer situation puts buyers under tremendous pressure, which is wonderful for you, the seller.
In a sellers’ market, competition forces buyers to take their best shot right off the bat. When the supply of ready, willing, and financially able buyers exceeds the inventory of houses available for sale, smart buyers don’t play games.
If you’re a seller in a buyers’ market, don’t give up. Even in a weak market, well-priced, well-marketed, attractive new listings can and do draw multiple offers. If you follow our advice in Chapter 9 on preparing your house for sale and you use the smart pricing techniques we describe in Chapter 11, you can create your very own sellers’ market — even when everybody around you is experiencing a buyers’ market.
In quiet markets or when a house is overpriced, offers slowly dribble in one-by-one, and agents or buyers present them to sellers as soon as possible. That’s the customary way to handle offers throughout this great land.
Buyers and their agents are naturally paranoid. They suspect sneaky, dishonest behavior if sellers do anything that’s the least little bit out of the ordinary. Postponing the presentation of an offer is generally considered unusual.
Suppose you need 24 hours to respond to any offer you get because you must have your lawyer review it. Unless you explain the reason for your delay to the buyers, they’ll think you want to shop their offer. Shopping an offer means showing the offer to every other prospective buyer you and your agent can find in an attempt to get someone to make a higher offer.
Smart buyers try to prevent you from shopping their offers by putting short fuses on them. In such cases, shades of Mission Impossible, their offers may contain a clause saying the offer expires if you don’t either accept or counter it immediately upon presentation.
Why make buyers or their agents wait to submit offers? You want to be sure your property gets sufficient exposure to prospective buyers so you can generate multiple offers. Nothing is illegal or unethical about this technique. The key to success is alerting buyers and agents well in advance about the precise time you’ll start accepting offers and the way you’ll handle those offers when they come in.
No time frame is perfect — long enough to expose the house to every potential purchaser, yet short enough to avoid losing even one buyer. Some buyers won’t get the word because they’re out of town on vacations or business trips when your house hits the market. Others won’t make an offer if they can’t present it immediately. Some people may refuse to get into a multiple-offer situation because they fear they’ll overpay for your house if they get into a bidding war.
Unless you set firm ground rules early on, the presentation of offers may resemble the Oklahoma land rush. To ensure presentations are handled fairly for each and every prospective buyer (and productively for you), you or your agent (if you’re using one) should tell interested parties that the following guidelines are in effect:
Buyers or their agents can personally present offers directly to you and your agent. This rule reassures buyers and agents that offers will be presented in the best possible way without any filtering or shading. This approach is good for you because you can question buyers or their agents directly while evaluating the pros and cons of each offer you receive.
Some sellers review multiple offers without permitting agent presentations. This approach speeds up the process because it keeps sellers from having to listen to endless twaddle about how wonderful buyers are, how much they love the house, how long they’ve been looking, and so on. Unfortunately, this practice enrages the losers because they all know they’d have won if only their offer had been presented properly. Upsetting potential buyers isn’t wise. You may need them later if the offer you initially accept falls through.
By applying the astute marketing techniques and crafty pricing strategy we describe elsewhere in this book, you earn the right to dictate favorable terms and conditions of sale for yourself if you have multiple offers on your hands. Buyers know you have a hot property. The pressure is on them to please you. No reasonable request you make will be refused. Your wish is their command.
Whether you have three offers or 33 lying on the kitchen table, you face the same dilemma: selecting the best one. Price isn’t the sole criteria. The highest offer is far from best if it’s riddled with dubious escape clauses, totally out of sync with your time frames, or made by someone who’s a week or two away from declaring bankruptcy. What good is a high offer from a buyer who can’t or won’t perform?
Think like a lender. In a strong sellers’ market, spirited buyer competition often pushes prices to new heights. Lenders usually support higher prices when they reflect an overall market trend and when the mortgage isn’t an excessively high percentage of the purchase price. You determine that percentage, called the loan-to-value ratio, by dividing the loan amount by the purchase price.
From a lender’s perspective, the higher the loan-to-value ratio, the greater the risk that a buyer will default on the loan. So, as a rule, the lower the loan-to-value ratio, the better the chances of getting loan approval.
Suppose you get two offers: One offer is $300,000 with a $225,000 (75 percent loan-to-value) loan contingency. The other is $310,000 with a $279,000 loan (90 percent loan-to-value). If the highest previous comparable sale in your area is $290,000, you’re smart to either accept or counter the $300,000 offer, as long as other terms and conditions of the two offers are about the same.
Don’t issue more than one counteroffer at a time. When faced with multiple offers, you have four options — accept one, counter one, counter more than one, or reject all offers. If you counter several offers, you may inadvertently end up in contract to sell your house to more than one buyer. This dreadful situation is known as double ratification. The resulting debacle can devastate you financially and emotionally. The one sure way to avoid this dreadful scenario is to follow this rule.
Some states have Multiple Counter Offer forms designed to take the danger out of this option. Ask your agent if your state has such a form. Countering more than one offer at a time should never be done without the guidance of a real estate attorney.
Qualify buyers carefully. Commit the last section of this chapter (the one about real versus fake buyers) to memory. If you have a poor memory, put a bookmark in that section and keep this book by your side while evaluating prospective buyers. When you question agents about their buyers, scrutinize each purchaser’s creditworthiness, motivation to purchase, and deadline for when the transaction must be complete
If you have any doubts about buyers’ financial qualifications, get their permission to contact the lenders directly to resolve your questions before accepting or countering their offers. A buyer who’s been preapproved for a loan by a reputable lender has a Good Borrower Seal of Approval — as long as the mortgage that buyer needs to buy your house doesn’t exceed the preapproved loan amount.
Pay as much attention to terms and conditions as you do to the price. Sometimes, a lower price beats a higher one. For example, when you evaluate offers, seek terms that fatten your bottom line. If you need a quick sale, the best buyer is the one who can close fastest. Then again, the best buyer may be the one who’ll let you rent your house back after the sale if you need a place to stay until the close of escrow on your new home.
Price isn’t everything if you have other, more compelling needs.
Avoid conflicts of interest resulting from dual agency. Dual agency occurs when the same agent or real estate broker represents buyer and seller. If your listing agent also represents one of the people making an offer to buy your house, that agent has a conflict of interest, plain and simple. How can “your” agent get you the highest possible price and simultaneously help a buyer get the lowest possible price? Can “your” agent give you unbiased advice as you evaluate the other offers you receive? Read Chapter 7 for more information.
Most real estate firms have procedures to handle dual agency. If your listing agent also develops a buyer, the agent’s sales manager or broker usually steps in to represent you during the presentation and evaluation of offers. This approach frees your agent to work with the buyer during this phase of the deal. However, if your listing agent is a sole practitioner, you may be wise to get a real estate lawyer or another outside expert to assist you.
The opposite of multiple offers is no offers. Zero. Zip. None.
An absolute absence of offers may be caused by a horrendous real estate market plagued by a sagging economy, poor consumer confidence, and high mortgage rates. Like it or not, a divorce, job transfer, or some other major life change may compel you to sell in a rotten market. If it’s any consolation, you’ll probably recover the amount you lose as a seller by paying a proportionately lower price for your new home — unless you compound your misfortune by moving from a weak real estate market to a strong one.
However, suppose the economy is booming, consumers are wildly optimistic, and houses around you sell faster than you can say, “We’re outta here!” If you have a problem getting offers in such fertile ground, something is seriously wrong either with your property or your asking price. Review Chapter 9 to make sure you’ve done everything possible to spruce up your house, and Chapter 11 in case you inadvertently overpriced your property.
When either your price or property is flawed or your local market is stagnant, you may attract strange buyers bearing odd offers. The following sections offer tips to help you make the best of whatever comes your way.
A lowball offer is one that’s far below a property’s true FMV. For example, if someone offers you $150,000 for your house when recent comparable sales data show it’s worth every penny of $300,000, that’s a lowball offer.
Lowball offers are typically made by unmotivated buyers trying to get a deal, by sharks who hope that you’re desperate and willing to negotiate, or by buyers who think that your property is overpriced. Serious, informed buyers know the difference between well-priced properties and overpriced turkeys. (See Chapter 10 for a brush-up on methods to determine your house’s FMV.)
Suppose you just put your house up for sale. You priced it as close as humanly possible to its FMV. Two days after your house hits the market, you get an offer. Trembling with excitement, you open it. You don’t read any further than the absurdly low purchase price.
Either the buyers haven’t done their homework regarding comparable home sales, or they think you don’t know your house’s real value and they’re trying to exploit your ignorance, or they’re trying to steal your house. As a seller, you can handle people who lowball your well-priced house in one of two ways:
An enormous difference exists between submitting an offer at the low end of a house’s FMV and lowballing. For example, suppose someone offers $240,000 for your house, listed at $249,500.
You based the asking price on the fact that comparable houses in your neighborhood recently sold in the $240,000 to $249,500 price range. You naturally opted to start at the high end of the range of FMVs. The buyer just as naturally began at the low end. Even though you and the buyer are $9,500 apart, each of you has a factual basis for your initial negotiating position.
As long as an offer is based on actual sales of comparable houses, it isn’t insulting. The $9,500 gap sparks a lively debate as you and the buyer try to defend your respective prices. A buyer who comes in on the low side of a property’s value is fine, as long as you have time to negotiate and you believe that the buyer is motivated. You can find out by countering with a price you’re willing to accept.
Sometimes, a lowball offer is, in fact, a reality check. The offer isn’t a lowball offer if it accurately reflects current market values. Ironically, some sellers provoke low offers by unwise pricing. These sellers insist on leaving way too much room for negotiation in their prices because they “know” buyers never pay full asking price. Sound familiar?
Unfortunately, this practice becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. When buyers who know property values make an offer on a grossly overpriced house, their initial offering price appears to be much lower than it really is. What goes around comes around.
For example, suppose your house’s FMV is $300,000. You put it on the market at $360,000 to give yourself a 20 percent negotiating cushion. A buyer offers you $240,000, 20 percent less than FMV, for the exact same reason. You and the buyer start out $120,000 apart. You must do a heap of negotiating to bridge a gap that enormous.
Another possibility is that your asking price was close to FMV when you initially put the property on the market. However, in a weak market, prices keep declining. If your house has been for sale for months and the only offer you’ve gotten appears to be a lowball, have your agent review all recent sale prices of comparable houses before rejecting the offer. If prices are dropping like boulders, that “lowball” offer may be worth pursuing.
When mortgage money is cheap and plentiful, deals are straightforward and simple. Buyers make cash down payments and get loans for the balance of the purchase price. Sellers use the proceeds from their sales to buy new homes.
However, when mortgage interest rates soared to more than 18 percent in the early 1980s, house sales activity plummeted. Buyers and sellers did some pretty unconventional maneuvering to transfer properties. Desperate times produce desperate measures.
When times get tough, unconventional purchasing techniques breed like bunnies. These next two offers don’t come from The Godfather. If you need to sell your house pronto, you can (and should) refuse them. But, under certain circumstances, the offers in the next two sections may make sense for you.
A lease-option is exactly what the name implies: a rental agreement to lease your house but with an option to buy the house in the future. Lease-option offers are triggered by high mortgage rates or are made by folks who have good incomes but haven’t managed to save enough cash yet to make a down payment.
If you must sell your house quickly to get the cash you need to buy a new home, read no further. A lease-option is too iffy. The house may or may not sell sometime during the lease’s term, depending on whether the renter elects to exercise the option to purchase.
A lease-option is actually two contracts rolled into one. Here’s how it works:
A lease-option is more complex than a regular sale because in addition to negotiating the future purchase’s price and terms, you also have to negotiate the following:
For example, suppose your house’s normal rental value is $750 a month, and the renter agrees to pay you a $5,000 consideration for the option to purchase. Your lease-option contract stipulates that the buyer pays a $1,000-per-month rent, $300 of which goes toward a down payment. If the renter exercises the option after ten months, you credit the renter $8,000 ($5,000 option consideration plus $300 a month for ten months) toward the down payment. However, if the renter allows the option to lapse without exercising it, you keep the option consideration money and all the rent money.
Determining your house’s value in six months, a year, or whenever the renter exercises the option is the trickiest part of the deal. House prices go down — and up. If property values skyrocket during the term of the lease, your house may end up being worth much more than the amount you’d receive under the terms of your lease-option contract. Unforeseen fluctuations in property value make lease-options tricky for sellers as well as buyers.
Creative financing was born of dire necessity in the early 1980s when interest rates were pushed to all-time highs by the Federal Reserve Board in an effort to stifle raging inflation. When mortgage rates hit 18 percent, only people who weren’t borrowing much in relation to their incomes could qualify for conventional financing.
Ordinary mortals glued deals together by assuming the existing, lower-interest-rate loans on properties and using seller financing to bridge any gap between their down payments plus assumed loan amounts and the purchase prices. We cover seller financing in Chapter 4, if you’re interested (pun intended).
The Frankenstein monster of creative financing is selling property to buyers who don’t pay one red cent of down payment. Unfortunately, the nothing-down advocates didn’t all go out of business when interest rates dropped back to normal. Some of these hucksters still peddle their seminars and how-to books to desperate buyers and vultures eager to learn new ways to fleece suckers.
As we discuss in Chapter 4, you may consider helping to finance the sale of your property. But get a decent down payment from the buyer, in addition to checking him out thoroughly.
In a really rotten market, even putting a “let’s sell it” price on your house may not be enough incentive to get the property sold. You may have to sweeten the deal by offering a buyer money in the form of seller-paid financial concessions. The two most common financial concessions are for nonrecurring closing costs and corrective work.
Nonrecurring closing costs are one-time charges a buyer incurs for such expenses as the loan appraisal, loan points, credit report, title insurance, and property inspections. This amount can be major money. Closing costs can total 3 percent to 5 percent of the purchase price.
Some sellers come right out and tell buyers that they’ll pay a portion or even all the nonrecurring closing costs to put a deal together. And, believe it or not, sometimes paying a buyer’s nonrecurring closing costs is more effective than reducing your asking price by the exact same amount of money.
A credit to the buyer for nonrecurring closing costs works like this. Suppose you recently ratified a contract to sell your house for $250,000. Your prospective buyer has $57,000 in cash for the purchase — enough, the buyer thought, to make a 20 percent down payment ($50,000) plus $7,000 to cover the closing costs.
Much to the buyer’s horror, the escrow officer says the nonrecurring closing costs total $10,000. Because only $7,000 was allocated for these fees, the buyer is $3,000 short of the total needed to buy your house.
About now, you may wonder, “What’s the big deal? Why not just reduce the purchase price to $247,000 instead of giving the buyer a $3,000 credit?” After all, your net proceeds of sale are the same either way, and reducing the purchase price is much less complicated. Furthermore, if property taxes in your area are based on a percentage of the purchase price, lowering the purchase price cuts the buyers’ annual tax bite.
Surprise. Assuming your buyer is short of cash (as most buyers are) and has no rich relatives or pals to tap for a loan, a credit is much better for the buyer than a price reduction. Here’s why.
Suppose you drop the house’s price to $247,000. A 20 percent down payment at the new price comes to $49,400. But if closing costs are $10,000, the buyer has only $47,000 left for the down payment. Even with a $3,000 price reduction, the buyer is $2,400 short of the amount needed for a 20 percent down payment.
If the buyer puts less than 20 percent down, the monthly loan costs significantly increase because the buyer must pay a higher interest rate on the mortgage plus private mortgage insurance costs. Under these circumstances, prudent buyers may decide to kill the deal and buy a less-expensive house.
Contrast the price-reduction scenario with one where the buyer pays $250,000 for the house and gets a $3,000 credit from you at closing for the nonrecurring closing costs. After putting 20 percent ($50,000) cash down to get the lowest-interest-rate loan, the buyer uses the remaining $7,000 plus your $3,000 credit to pay closing costs. Your credit makes the deal happen.
Typically, at the time the buyer submits an offer, neither you nor the buyer knows whether your property needs any corrective work. That uncertainty is why contracts usually have provisions for additional negotiations regarding credits for repairs after the necessary inspections are complete.
If property inspectors find that the property requires little or no corrective work, you and the buyer have little or nothing to negotiate. However, the inspectors may discover that your $200,000 house needs $20,000 of corrective work for termite and dry-rot damage plus major foundation repairs. Big corrective work bills can be deal killers.
This is the moment of truth in most house sales. Buyers don’t want to pay for corrective work; neither do sellers. Your deal will fall through if you and the buyer can’t resolve this impasse.
Pricing your house is one time when knowing everything about comparable houses that have sold in your area is critically important. Determining who pays for corrective work is the other time when you must know comparable sales data. If you heed our advice in Chapter 7 and hire an agent who knows neighborhood property values, your agent can forcefully present facts regarding the physical condition and terms of sale of other, supposedly comparable, properties during corrective work negotiations with the buyer and her agent.
For example, suppose your agent’s property analysis establishes, beyond any shadow of a doubt, that houses comparable to yours with no termite or dry-rot damage and foundations that make the Rock of Gibraltar look like mush are selling for $300,000. Because your house needs $20,000 of corrective work, it’s worth only $280,000 in its present condition.
As a last resort, you can threaten to pull out of the deal if the buyer doesn’t back off on the demands. In a strong market, this strategy may work. However, sellers who kill the messenger often regret their decisions. Buyers don’t bring the damage with them, and, unfortunately for you, buyers won’t take the damage with them when you kick them out of the deal. Like it or not, you’re stuck with the damage.
As we point out in Chapter 8, even if you drive away buyers who discover damage to your house, you still may have a legal obligation to tell other buyers everything you found out about the required corrective work. Any such disclosure will probably lower the price a future buyer offers for your house. All things considered, working things out with the buyer who uncovers the damage is certainly much faster and probably no more expensive than waiting for another buyer.
Lenders also participate in corrective-work problems. They get copies of inspection reports if borrowers tell them that a serious repair problem exists, if their appraisal indicates property obviously needs major repairs, or if the contract contains a credit for extensive repairs.
You credit the buyers directly for corrective work at the close of escrow. Lenders usually don’t approve of this approach because it raises uncertainties about whether the corrective work will actually be completed. If it isn’t, the security of the lender’s loan is impaired. Most lenders will, however, allow credits for nonrecurring closing costs. The amount is generally limited by the actual amount of closing costs, although some allow a fixed percentage.
Join with your buyer in obtaining competitive bids on the repair work from several reputable licensed contractors. Use bids to establish the amount of the corrective work credit. This approach doesn’t bother good buyers. They don’t want to get rich from your misfortune. All they want is what they thought they were buying in the first place — a well-maintained house without termite or dry-rot problems and with a good foundation.
Fake buyers don’t lie in wait like tigers itching to dig their claws into you for the thrill of killing your deal. The very thought that people would knowingly waste their time and money on an exercise in futility is ludicrous.
The key word is knowingly. All buyers start out thinking that they’re sincere. As their quest for a house continues, however, circumstances ultimately prove that some are phony.
Fake buyers usually mimic genuine buyers very cleverly (so cleverly, in fact, they often fool themselves for quite some time). Like real buyers, counterfeit buyers may have agents, read ads about houses for sale, and go to Sunday open houses. They outwardly appear to be the real McCoy. If you (and your listing agent, if you’re using one) don’t know how to detect fake buyers, you end up wasting time, energy, and money fruitlessly negotiating to sell your house to less-than-genuine prospects.
Identifying bogus buyers is easy if you know how. The following sections include five tests that you can use to spot the fakes.
Real buyers are ready, willing, and financially able to purchase. Having two out of three of these attributes isn’t good enough. When so-called buyers don’t satisfy all three criteria, they’re phonies, regardless of whether they realize it. Genuine buyers want you to know they’re creditworthy. That’s why they’re willing to share important aspects of their financial situation at the time they present their offers, and perhaps even get preapproved or prequalified for a loan. In a strong local real estate market, smart, serious buyers seek preapproval or prequalification before making an offer.
Real buyers familiarize themselves with property values and market conditions before making an offer to purchase. They, and their agents, use sale prices of houses comparable to yours in price, age, size, condition, and location to establish the FMV of your house. They know the difference between fairly priced properties and overpriced turkeys.
People don’t buy houses to generate commissions for real estate agents. Buyers often are motivated by a life change, such as wedding bells, a job transfer, family expansion, retirement, or a death in the family.
Lack of motivation almost always is a red flag. Establish the buyers’ motivation when you receive an offer. When buyers tell you they’re just testing the market, run as fast as you can in the opposite direction.
Buyer deadlines are established by such factors as when they have to begin new jobs in another city, when the twins are due, when school starts, when the escrow is due to close on the house they’re selling, and so on. Bona fide buyers almost always have a time frame within which they must act.
Real buyers look for ways to make deals go smoothly. They work with you to solve problems instead of creating problems and finding excuses to make the transaction more difficult. Genuine buyers have a let’s-make-it-happen attitude. They’re deal makers, not deal breakers.