CHAPTER TWO
BEEKEEPING EQUIPMENT
To the uninitiated, beehive equipment and protective clothing can appear complicated. This view is deceptive. The only purpose of the protective gear is to shield the beekeeper from an excessive number of stings; at the most basic level, the beehive is little more than a stack of boxes, each holding about eight to ten framed honeycombs. Everything else is personal choice.
All bees really need in order to set up a colony is a dry, dark cavity approximately one cubic foot square, with a defendable entrance and nothing else already living there. Consequently, bees are amenable to most common hive designs.
Confusion can arise due to the sheer number of designs and styles of hive in use—from the popular Langstroth to the British National and WBC designs, and from Warre to top-bar hives. Some of these styles have been pictured in the book to give a feel for the variety available around the world, but the best advice is always to find out what equipment is most commonly used in your local area. Though daunting at first, with the help of appropriate study materials and possibly a beekeeper friend, all will become clear. Once the initial choices have been made, the novice beekeeper can begin developing expertise, and natural expansion will occur.
11 My hive equipment doesn’t match
CAUSE
There are many hive designs available around the world, ranging from simple to surprisingly complex. Occasionally adding to the confusion is the fact that manufacturers’ measurements and designs may differ slightly. Mixed equipment may fit together, but not perfectly.
SOLUTION
Since bees are not particular about the appearance of the hive, to a great extent it is not a problem if equipment doesn’t match. Different hive types can be improvised to work together in many instances. Nearly any beehive composed of vertical, free-hanging frames can be modified to incorporate different styles of equipment. However, there is a point of diminishing returns. Beehives are already a conglomerate of parts and pieces and to add even more nonstandard parts and pieces only creates further confusion. In springtime, reversing brood boxes may become difficult and would probably require individual frames to be shifted rather than entire boxes. And while the bees may not care about the outward appearance of their hive, the proud beekeeper may derive a certain amount of satisfaction from tending a neat, well-turned-out apiary.
When setting up a new beekeeping operation, the best advice is to opt for common hive designs that are used and available locally. That way, when the time comes that you need additional or replacement equipment, it can likely be acquired from a supportive beekeeper in the area. Additionally, when purchasing used equipment at sales and auctions, there will be a greater chance that the equipment on the block will be compatible with the equipment you already own.
The three styles of United States equipment shown here—8-frame, 10-frame and expanded polystyrene—are commonly available, but individual components will not fit together without significant modifications.
12 I’m concerned about hive equipment theft
CAUSE
In nearly all parts of the world keeping bees is presently a very popular undertaking. Consequently, honey bees, in hives or otherwise, are in short supply and the value of equipment has increased significantly. Often, apiaries are located in areas that allow easy access for opportunistic thieves.
SOLUTION
The obvious security measures, such as installing electric fencing, an alarm system, or a locked enclosure, may well prove too expensive for the small-scale beekeeper. Marking your hive equipment can act as a deterrent to thieves and is much more readily affordable. It also provides proof of ownership in the event that any stolen equipment is tracked down.
Branding wooden equipment has historically been the most common method of marking wooden equipment. Equipment should be marked before painting with an obvious brand mark. Buying a large branding iron may not be an option for beekeepers who have only a few hives to mark—you could look into borrowing the equipment. Your local beekeeping club may be able to help. Though considerably less expensive, smaller branding irons make marks that are more easily obliterated.
Hives can be painted characteristic colors, but obviously they can be repainted. An identifying mark can be put inside hive boxes, but that will require access to the equipment in order to identify it.
Presently, technology is being developed for hives similar to that used to find lost or stolen mobile phones. However, this technology is nascent and may not be affordable for most beekeepers. For now, branding wooden equipment is the most common hive-marking procedure.
These hives in Italy are distinctive thanks to their brightly colored paint, but an opportunistic thief could easily paint them a different color. A brand mark would be much more difficult to cover up.
13 The paint finish on my hives is failing
CAUSE
If hive bodies are painted at all, the inside surface is rarely coated with paint. Consequently, moisture from the high humidity hive interior wicks through the wood and related joints to cause the paint finish to fail from the inside—not necessarily the outside.
SOLUTION
The average hive body, in constant use, generally lasts about seven years. There are several possible methods to help the hive bodies and supers last longer and make them look neater. The easiest procedure is not to paint the woodenware at all. It will take on a weathered, rugged look that is not unappealing. Interestingly, over the years, bees will coat the inside of the unpainted wood with propolis and wax and this will coax more time from the hive boxes than would be expected.
The second method is to paint the equipment—inside and out—at regular intervals of about three to four years. Commercial beekeepers will sometimes spray paint large quantities of stacked equipment at once, especially if the equipment is used for honey production.
Thirdly, you could use an exterior stain product with an UV inhibitor. This is normally a product used on the exterior surface of houses and cottages. Such finishes are particularly popular in Canada. This gives a natural and appealing color to the equipment but abundant time should be allowed for the finish to cure, not just to dry.
In any case, painting the edges is a troublesome task. So troublesome, in fact, that many beekeepers forego the effort. While paint does help protect the exterior wood surface, primarily the equipment is being painted for esthetic reasons.
The hive shown on the left has been painted with an exterior penetrating stain normally used to coat lake cottages and cabins. It will need to be recoated about as often as regular paint, but the finish is visually appealing. The hive on the right has been painted with exterior latex paint. As is expected, after a few years of use, the finish begins to age and mildew growth starts.
14 The inner cover of the hive is glued down
CAUSE
Either the colony has become very crowded or the inner cover was incorrectly left in the inverted winter position. In either instance, the bees have built heavy bands of brace or ladder combs between the top bars and the inner cover surface, making it difficult to open the hive.
SOLUTION
This issue is a common occurrence. This can be seen in the general design and fitting of the inner cover. From the outside, the joint between the top edge of the super and the lower edge of the inner cover is readily accessible with a hive tool. If a colony is seriously crowded—even if the equipment manufacturer respected bee space measurements—combs containing either honey or drones will be jammed into all available small spaces. Indeed, inner covers on hives that are not opened for several seasons will become so tightly stuck that they may actually break apart when forced off the hive. Just beneath the inner cover, frames, both wood and plastic, will also be soundly stuck to the hive body. In general, this hive will be difficult and messy to manipulate.
The only solution is to regularly scrape off propolis and brace combs whenever the colony is opened. An alternative would be only to remove selected frames and to keep those frames reasonably clear of propolis and extraneous combs. To a degree, always providing ample hive space would mitigate the behavior. The bees will diligently work to glue and seal all components back into place almost as soon as the beekeeper completes the task of removing these natural materials. This activity primarily occurs when plant resins are available or when nectar flows are ongoing.
The primary function of the inner cover is to prevent the rimmed outer cover from being glued to the top of the hive. The inner cover can then be pried from the hive top using a hive tool at the joint formed between. The one pictured is in the inverted winter position.
15 Plastic hives accumulate water during the winter
CAUSE
Nearly all artificial hives will accumulate excess moisture under certain conditions. Since they are nearly impenetrable to water, unventilated expanded polystyrene hives will be particularly troublesome in this regard.
SOLUTION
During winter months in temperate climates, most beehive styles, whether made of wood or plastic, will accumulate moisture. Some moisture is a requirement within the healthy hive: the humidity within the brood nest needs to be at least 60 percent. Yet, possibly due to hive design, a significant amount of water can accumulate within the hive, which is caused by the metabolic activities of the wintering bees. Warm air rises from the wintering cluster and when it hits the top of the hive, the air cools and ice forms. Over the winter season, quite a bit of ice can collect. This is essentially no problem until spring, when the ice melts and drips cold water on the cluster below.
The natural nest has some extraordinary techniques for dealing with moisture. In beehives, the primary solution is to ventilate the hive near the top, just as houses are ventilated. This allows the moisture-laden air to escape without forming much ice.
Plastic hives, being essentially impenetrable to water, can accumulate a surprising amount. This was primarily an issue with early styles of plastic-hive equipment. Even with several inches of water in the hive bottom, the cluster seems to winter very well. Adding a screened bottom board to a plastic hive allows water drainage and improves air flow, while also allowing Varroa mites to fall out of the colony.
This early styled plastic hive was rugged and well made. The warm wintering cluster produced a good deal of water that accumulated over the winter months. Adding ventilation and anticipating the moisture issue resulted in a productive colony the next spring.
16 Beeswax foundation is difficult to install
CAUSE
The greatest issue when installing beeswax foundation is whether the foundation is the proper size for the type of frame being used. Foundation inserts can be inflexible, making them difficult to install.
SOLUTION
If your foundation sheets are too long to fit within the inside boundaries of the frames, and if only a few sheets are to be inserted, they can be cut down with large scissors or snips. If they are too short, leaving a space along the bottom edge, bees will tend to fill in the gap when constructing combs. For a good fit, the most logical solution is to purchase the frames from the same company that manufactures the foundation.
You must also decide what type of foundation to use. The earliest forms of bee comb foundation were made from 100 percent beeswax but this product was weak and would sag in hot weather. Later, thin plastic sheets coated with beeswax and embossed with cell base outlines were added to provide strength. Rather than sag, if not supported at the ends, this improved hive product would bow. Though all of these foundations are still being produced, currently the most popular design is plastic frame inserts. The frame insert is a thick beeswax-coated plastic sheet that has been embossed with cell template outlines. It does not sag or bow and requires no special frame insertion techniques or tools.
The foundation insert can be flexed and snapped into place within the frame. Occasionally, the insert sheet will bind within the frame, making it difficult to reposition the sheet. Alternatively, the foundation can be positioned inside the frame before the bottom bar is in place. The bottom bar is then used to trap the insert in place without having to flex and snap the insert sheet.
Snapping foundation inserts into new frames is a simple process. First, the frame is completely constructed. Then, the foundation insert is pushed into grooves that are cut into both the top and bottom bars of the assembled frame. The insert will snap into place and become trapped in the grooves within the center of the frame.
17 I don’t have the right tool to open up the hive
CAUSE
Every beekeeper should be equipped with a purpose-made hive tool for prying open the hive. But it is easy to misplace these necessary implements, or drop them when a beehive manipulation is under way.
SOLUTION
As emergency need dictates, nearly any type of pry bar can be used as an improvised hive tool. But over time, the use of such improvised tools will damage the frames and edges of the hive bodies, shortening the equipment’s useful life. Additionally, they are not as efficient as traditional hive tools, making manipulations lengthier and increasing the risk of inflicting damage within the hive. So, it really does make sense to ensure you have the correct tool for the job. Experienced beekeepers will accumulate several of these valuable tools—it is always a good idea to have a spare on hand in case of accidents.
For many years, there were two kinds of hive tools—a long one and a short one (9 1/2in or 7in/24cm or 18cm). Now, modern bee supply catalogs offer multiple versions of what at one time was little more than a “window opener.” These implements are made from hardened spring steel and will tolerate a good deal of abuse. Any of the versions now offered work very well for removing stuck frames and for separating hive body equipment.
If a frame is solidly stuck with propolis and wax, the frame top bar may either pull from the end bars or break under heavy prying pressure. For frames stuck this badly, stand the hive body on end and from the bottom tap at the frame ends with a hammer, driving a frame or two from the hive body. Once one frame is out, the remaining stuck frames can be readily removed.
Around the world, hive tools are manufactured in many styles. Features common to all are wide blades on both ends for prying frames and scraping propolis.
18 The queen excluder is disrupting colony function
CAUSE
Many beekeepers believe that queen excluders restrict free worker bee movement into the supers, thereby causing honey to be stored just beneath the excluder or, alternatively, no honey to be stored at all.
SOLUTION
Interestingly, this bee management problem is not viewed as a troublesome issue by all beekeepers. The basic function of the queen excluder is to restrict the movement of the queen into honey supers. The grid, having openings of 5/32in (0.4cm), are made of metal or plastic. This grid allows workers to pass but restricts queens and drones from moving into honey supers. This measurement is critical, requiring excluders to be handled carefully; if there is any damage, the queen will find the resulting opening and move through.
The argument against using excluders is that nectar-loaded bees are reluctant to squeeze through the narrow openings and that the grid causes undue restrictions on the colony. This concern will seemingly not be resolved in the near future. The excluder is an established piece of bee equipment with both beekeeper supporters and detractors. When there are many colonies to manipulate, a beekeeper will probably use them, while beekeepers with fewer colonies can spend the time to be certain that the queen is not with brood in a honey super that is removed for extracting. There are different styles of excluder, with pricing based on quality of manufacture. Plastic excluders are the least expensive.
It comes down to personal choice. If queen excluders don’t fit in with your colony management philosophy, don’t use them. But bear in mind that you will have to deal with the occasional spot of brood in honey supers. The true risk of not using an excluder is that the queen is unintentionally removed from the hive along with a honey super.
A beekeeper at work removing wax from a zinc queen excluder. Excluders must be handled carefully to ensure no damage as the queen will easily find any resulting holes. Excluders may be made from various materials; some beekeepers prefer to use plastic.
19 My bee gloves make hive work difficult
CAUSE
When working beehives in hot weather, or if gloves become honey-soaked, finesse and manual dexterity become an issue.
SOLUTION
Honey bees can become defensive if their colony is threatened. In extreme cases, such as an accident where large numbers of hives are spilled and great numbers of bees are confused and in flight, full protective clothing is required. A veil, heavy coveralls, boots, and heavy gloves with elastic cuffs make up the necessary protective clothing. In routine hive examinations, the veil is normally the only necessary equipment. Typically, experienced beekeepers do not wear gloves during general colony examinations.
If you are new to beekeeping, there is no shame in wearing full protective gear, including gloves, until you build up your confidence and experience. Beekeepers with many hives to manipulate may also choose to wear them, so that they can work quickly and efficiently.
Every type of glove has its shortcomings, and they all add a degree of clumsiness to hive manipulation. Plastic and rubber gloves hold water generated from perspiration. Lightweight gloves such as those used for medical procedures are too thin and bee stingers can penetrate them—you could try wearing two pairs, which would allow you to replace the outer pair as you move between hives, thus reducing the risk of transferring disease. Heavy canvas gloves are more inexpensive and will work for a while. Leather or goatskin gloves have a much longer useable life, but they are almost impossible to clean.
At the fingernail, a typical finger is 3/8in (1cm) thick; with gloves on, this grows to about 1/2in (1.3cm) thick. Bee space between frames averages 1/4–3/8in (0.6–1cm). Getting oversized gloved fingers between frames will prove difficult, so the sooner you can move on to working without gloves, the better.
The gloves pictured are made from leather with rigid, extended cuffs and have ventilated wristbands. An elastic band prevents the glove cuffs from sliding down the arm. You should always clean gloves and tools in a solution of caustic soda after use.
20 The beehive smoker will not stay lit
CAUSE
The air needed to keep the embers inside a smoker lit is supplied by the bellows. If the bellows are not flexed every few minutes, the embers will start to go out.
SOLUTION
Beehive smokers are necessary devices for successful hive manipulations. The smoke they produce temporarily masks the internal chemical communication system of the colony. Consequently, bees are unable to assemble a coordinated defensive response, and the beekeeper can manipulate the hive with reasonable safety.
The effects of smoke vary, but in general a beekeeper can expect about ten minutes of protected work time before the effects of the smoke wanes. The problem arises when the smoker bellows are not flexed for ten minutes or so. The embers producing the smoke cool due to a decreased oxygen supply. As the bees begin to reassemble their defenses, the beekeeper reaches for the smoker—and when needed the most, it has died out. With the hive opened and bees becoming increasingly agitated, the entire lighting process must be performed. Take heart. All beekeepers find themselves in this scenario at some time.
To reduce the risk of this happening, be sure to build a good ember bed in the smoker at the outset. Start with newspaper or pine needles. Pump the bellows until an open flame appears. Slowly add more fuel and bring back to a full flame. Continue the cycle of adding fuel and bringing to a flame. Once smoke is easily produced, close the lid and frequently pump the bellows. You are looking to produce copious amounts of cool, white smoke; bluish, hot smoke agitates bees, can sear their wings, and should not be used.
Gentle smoke whiffs from a quiet smoker are an indication that the embers are still hot enough to combust. A large smoker, properly stoked and periodically recharged, will provide smoke all day. Over time, as the ember bed grows, the smoke will become very hot. The wire grid is to help keep fingers and hands away from the hot barrel. Smokers can cause accidental fires so appropriate care must be taken.
21 The handles on my bee boxes are inadequate
CAUSE
Generally, the thickness of wood used to manufacture beehives is 3/4in thick. Consequently, the standard recessed handle that is cut into the sides and ends of the boxes can only be about 3/8–1/2in (1–1.3cm) thick. If gloves are used, this does not provide for much of a handle.
SOLUTION
At most, hive body handles are 3/4in thick and most likely they are considerably more shallow than that. Additionally, honey is remarkably heavy—and guarded by great numbers of potentially angry bees. Beekeepers often wear bulky protective clothing, and the ground around the hives is not always level and solid. Lastly, nearly all beehive styles result in a box that is clumsy and heavy to carry. Obviously, conveniently positioned handles would seem to be completely logical, yet an entirely satisfactory solution to this problem is yet to be found. But there are a couple of things you could try.
An alternative to the usual recessed handles is to attach a wooden strip along the top of the recessed handhold of the hive box ends to provide more of a grasping point at each end of the box. These strips should be firmly attached to the hive body ends with cinched nails, or screwed in place. If the box is unpainted, gluing will be very helpful.
If this doesn’t prove helpful, you could consider using shallower boxes. These will still have the same restrictive handle issues, but the reduced weight makes them easier to carry.
22 A hand truck loaded with a colony tipped over
CAUSE
When a hand truck is heavily loaded with beehives or full honey supers, it can become unstable and difficult to maneuver on the soft ground of an apiary.
SOLUTION
Beekeepers commonly use carts, wagons, or hand trucks to move equipment around both in the yard and in the storage house. Such carts are manufactured in many different sizes, styles, and price ranges. In general, they are useful to have at the ready for moving hives, supers, or equipment that is in storage. Problems can arise when two-wheeled hand trucks are used to move heavy hives or full honey supers in the apiary. The wheelbase is so narrow that a top-heavy hive will cause the cart to become unstable, especially on soft ground. If a live colony is being moved and the load tips, it will result in many defensive bees spilling from the hive, and it will be difficult to regain control.
Common sense is the best solution when it comes to maneuvering a loaded hand truck. When possible, move the truck along firm paths. It is also a good idea to ratchet-strap the equipment to the cart. Pulling the loaded cart is a better option than trying to push it on soft or uncertain ground, and ask someone to help you.
Though most bee supply companies list hand trucks in their catalogs, there are no models that are specifically manufactured for the bee industry. In general, heavy-duty models are better suited, but they will also require more effort to get on and off the truck. Have a hand truck available, use it when necessary, but expect occasional problems.
The unit on the left is inexpensive and lightweight, while the larger device on the right is heavy duty and can withstand abuse and heavy weights. Two people will be needed to propel the heavy-duty cart in the soft ground of the apiary. Even so, this is less strenuous than carrying the full colonies or full honey supers.
23 My observation hive is not thriving
CAUSE
Observation hives are not normal domiciles for bees. Left to their own decisions, scout bees will search out dark cavities rather than one as openly lit as an observation hive. Nearly all of these units are high maintenance and require frequent manipulation, but an observation hive is always a popular educational exhibit.
SOLUTION
In the natural state, a bee nest exists in total darkness so a colony will be less than comfortable in a brightly lit, glass-walled hive. If possible, the glass walls should be covered when not being viewed.
One- or two-frame units are only suitable for a short time. Such small hives are perfect for presentations and other short-term educational exhibits. If the colony is expected to exist in a glass-walled hive on a semipermanent basis, multiple frames help the colony develop a functional brood nest. Nine deep frames (3 on 3 on 3) are often enough to help the colony get through the warm season, but such a configuration will not always highlight the queen’s activities. In fact, much of the time, she will avoid the outside frames, but for most observers, being able to watch so many bees safely behind the glass presents sufficient intrigue.
Be prepared to support and maintain an observation hive throughout the entire season, and to deal with swarms from colonies that become crowded and cannot be given more space. Most units will not survive the winter; you will more than likely have to disassemble the unit come fall.
An observation colony being viewed by the public must be kept in prime condition. A dead or dying observation hive will elicit concern and sympathy for bees that are obviously in a dire condition.
The colony in this observation hive is not thriving. In fact, it is close to starvation. It requires emergency feeding of both carbohydrates and protein. Additionally, more adult bees should be added. Due to the greenhouse effect, an observation hive should never be left out in direct sunlight.
24 I’m confused by differing foundation cell sizes
CAUSE
From the earliest years of bee foundation manufacture, some controversy has centered on the best cell size to stamp on the wax foundation sheet. For the new beekeeper, this management topic can be particularly confusing.
SOLUTION
New beekeepers are subjected to a significant number of initial decisions concerning things like hive types, frame styles, queen stocks, and methods of starting a new beekeeping project. Which cell size to opt for on the foundation is also an issue that comes up.
Much of the confusion surrounding this topic stems from the fact that cell dimensions tend to vary even within the same colony. Generally, in the United States, the discussion has centered around two sizes of foundation comb cell sizes: the 3/16in (0.5cm) diameter cell, and the more common industry “standard” 7/32in (0.6cm) cell. In 1933, Prof. Ursmar Baudoux began a discussion in the beekeeping literature that promoted larger cell sizes in order to produce larger bees that would, theoretically, produce more honey. In recent years, others have taken interest in this topic area, but from a different view. It was proposed that smaller cell sizes would produce bees with a shorter development time, which would disrupt Varroa development. While many beekeepers have anecdotally supported this observation, scientific studies have not clearly confirmed this effect.
New beekeepers, having limited to no beekeeping experience, should not become embroiled in this technical controversy until they have a good basis in beekeeping management and beekeeping experience.
25 I’m unsure which bottom board design to opt for
CAUSE
Until the screened bottom board became common, all bottom boards were made of solid wood. Now some bottom boards have screened parts while other bottom boards are solid.
SOLUTION
The bottom board style will be the beekeeper’s decision. In a natural wild nest there is no bottom board. The style of hive the beekeeper is using will likely dictate which type bottom board can be used.
Presently, most hive designs offer a bottom board with a screened section. The screening is commonly 8-mesh (8 squares per inch/2.5cm). The reason for this screened section is that the occasional Varroa mite (see Problem 62) that is accidentally knocked or groomed from a bee will drop completely out of the hive. If the bottom board is solid, the mite will (theoretically) tumble to the bottom of the hive and land on the bottom board. It will await a passing bee and be carried back up into the brood nest area. Unfortunately, if used as the only method of Varroa control, the screened bottom board is not effective. No doubt it helps, but not enough to warrant not using other methods to reduce Varroa populations. Many of the screened bottom board designs come with inserts that allow the screening to be closed in winter months or when assaying the colony to estimate Varroa counts.
Beekeepers who frequently move their colonies for pollination or wintering purposes may not use screened bottom boards. Inserting the hand truck toe-plate under a heavy hive can cause rips or holes in the bottom board screening. Commercial beekeepers commonly use bottom board pallets that are designed for use with skid-steer loaders. Screened bottom boards are best used on hives that are rarely moved.
26 A loaded hive stand has accidentally collapsed
CAUSE
Beehives become surprisingly heavy as a productive season progresses. A hive stand may appear to be level and stable, only to shift or collapse when a nucleus colony that weighed about 40 pounds (18kg) grew to weigh around 300 pounds (136kg). At some point, the load is too great for the stand.
SOLUTION
Throughout the development of beekeeping equipment, a perfect hive stand has never been designed. It would appear that nearly any supportive structure could conceivably have a beehive set upon it. The challenge is that the hive stand needs to be just the right height and allow for a gentle slope to the front so rainwater will not accumulate within the hive. Tall stands are convenient for working small colonies, but a tall hive stand makes it very difficult to add and remove honey storage boxes. For colonies housed in hives that are frequently moved, a hive stand becomes yet another item to be loaded, moved, and then unloaded. It is not surprising, then, that so many devices have been tried as a support base for the typical beehive.
Cement blocks and treated wood timbers are common hive supports but the typical block is about an inch too narrow and the timbers are only 4in above the ground. Bee supply companies have historically offered simple structures that raise the hive just a few inches above the ground and have a front sloped landing board to assist heavily laden bees returning to the hive. In choosing a hive stand, go for a design that is stable, strong enough to withstand several hundred pounds of hive weight, portable if hive moves are anticipated, rot-proof, of desirable height (probably no more than 24in/60cm) and with an appearance that is aesthetically pleasing.
Not only do hive supports occasionally collapse from the weight of heavy colonies, but occasionally mowing equipment or farm animals bump hives. The hive shown in the photo was struck by the mower deck on a small tractor, causing the hive to fall forward. The hive stand was constructed of heavy treated lumber 8in (20cm) wide but the stand was narrow (approximately 18in/45cm) and did not sufficiently support the hive.