Table saw: This is useful for cutting long lengths of MDF accurately. Depending on your skill, you can also cut multiple MDF pieces at once, guaranteeing they match in dimensions.

Metal band saw: This is used for cutting the aluminum angled rail and lead screws.

Hack saw: If a band saw is not available, this is the saw to use for cutting the aluminum angled rail and lead screws.

Mitre box: This is useful for making accurate cuts in small MDF pieces.

Hammer: This is for hammering things, obviously.

Cordless screwdrivers: You'll need a Phillips and a slot head.

Regular screwdrivers: Again, you'll need a Phillips and a slot head.

Forstner drill bits: Forstner bits (see Figure 2-1) are extremely useful for counterboring as well as drilling large, smooth holes; regular drill bits can be used to drill counterbored holes, but these work much better.

Figure 2-1. Forstner drill bits in various sizes

Brad point drill bits: These drill a flat-bottomed hole and have a sharp, centered tip that creates a "dimple" that can be used to center other drill bits for later drilling.

Twisted drill bits: These are your standard drill bits and come in a range of sizes.

Spade drill bits: This is another common variety of drill bit that is perfectly acceptable for drilling holes.

Transfer punches: Transfer punches (see Figure 2-2) are available in different diameters. These tools have a sharp point on the end; inserting them into existing drilled holes will allow you to make a "dimple" in a second piece of MDF, giving you an accurate point to drill on the second piece of MDF.

Figure 2-2. Transfer punches let you mark other pieces accurately for drilling.

Magnetic bowl: This is a small bowl that can keep your nuts and bolts from falling all over the floor.

1/2" power drill: Having a drill that can handle larger-diameter drill bits will be very useful during the build.

Drill press: Useful for drilling straight holes (vertically) through material. A drill press also provides a small table to clamp MDF and aluminum rail to when drilling.

Wrenches: You'll need wrenches for 1/4" nuts.

Detail metal ruler: This is a special type of ruler (see Figure 2-3) with marks that allow you to make extremely straight lines for cutting and points for drilling. Measuring and marking increments of 1/8", 1/16", 1/32", and 1/64" are possible with these rulers.

Figure 2-3. These rulers are from Incra and are extremely accurate.

Tape measure: This tool is highly recommended as you'll be doing a lot of measuring in this project.

Metal square: A 90 degree square will come in handy for ensuring that parts are joined properly.

Tapping bit and holder: A tapping bit (see Figure 2-4) is used to cut thread into the aluminum angled rail so a bolt can be screwed in.

Figure 2-4. A tapping bit cuts threads into the aluminum angled rail.

Center punch: This little tool allows you to make a small indentation in wood and metal to mark where to drill.

C clamps: Clamps will come in very useful for holding parts together as you cut or drill them.

Bar clamps (of assorted sizes): These larger clamps will come in handy later when your CNC machine begins to get bigger and you need clamps that can stretch wider and longer.

Router: This is required for building your CNC machine. You'll need to purchase a laminate router (also called a hand router) to use with the chamfer bit.

Chamfer bit: For this project, you'll need a 45 degree chamfer bit (see Figure 2-5); this router bit allows you to trim the edge of a piece of MDF with a 45 degree angle.

Figure 2-5. A chamfer bit will let you cut a 45 degree surface on the MDF.

Countersink bits: These are used on the CNC machine's tabletop so the tapered head bolts won't stick out above the surface.

Metal file: This is used to smooth rough metal cuts such as the rails cut from aluminum.

Sanding block: This is used to defeather MDF and remove rough edges.

Soldering gun: You can use wire nuts (various sizes) to connect two pieces of wire, but soldering is still the best way to make a strong, reliable connection between two pieces. The wire used in this project (18 gauge) may be too thin/delicate for a wire nut to be reliable.

Solder: Along with a soldering gun, you'll need plenty of solder during the electronics assembly phase of the project.

Wire cutter and stripper: Most of the wire you'll use during the electronics assembly will need to have the outer sheath removed (stripped) and cut to specific lengths.

Third-hand clamp: This is useful for holding wire while you solder-a third-hand clamp typically has a heavy base (see Figure 2-6), at least two alligator clips, and often a magnifying glass.

Figure 2-6. A third-hand clamp is very useful when soldering.

Multimeter: You'll use this tool to verify the voltage and amperage of some of the electronic devices used during the electronics assembly phase.

This is our recommended list of tools, but it's certainly not exhaustive. There are likely tools you have (or have access to) that can make building your CNC machine that much easier. (And if you have a method or tool that works better than we describe, please let us know by sharing your information at the book's official discussion forum: www.buildyourcnc.com/book.aspx.)

Keling Technology (www.kelinginc.net): Keling is where the electronics for the three test machines were ordered. Shipping took about one week and all the parts were wrapped securely. Keling also provides downloadable documentation on most everything they sell.

CNC4PC (www.cnc4pc.com): This is another source for some (but not all) of the electronics we specify in Chapter 6.

www.buildyourcnc.com: Coauthor Patrick Hood-Daniel has been packaging and selling bundles of electronics (as well as hardware) for building CNC machines, and the components used in Chapter 6 can be purchased directly from his web site.