“Tyger Tyger burning bright,In the forests of the night:What immortal hand or eye,Dare frame thy fearful symmetry?”
—William Blake
One of the most important organizing principles of life, the universe, and everything is symmetry. As Michio Kaku puts it, “To a physicist, beauty means symmetry and simplicity.”
What’s true for a physicist also applies to the visual arts. Graphic designer Darrin Crescenzi speaks of the “unique visual tension between comforting symmetry and compelling asymmetry.” Crescenzi believes that the “thoughtful application [of this tension] can bring beauty and harmony and intrigue to all manner of designed things.”
This chapter explores what it means to be visually symmetrical, and the different kinds of visual symmetry. Symmetry can apply to an entire frame, or proportionally to part of an image.
Visual symmetry occurs frequently and often in some kinds specific kinds of shapes, such as mandalas and spirals.
When we think of symmetry, most often we think of bilateral symmetry—symmetry along two sides of a median axis, so that there are two halves, one on each side of the axis. In addition to bilateral symmetry along a horizontal or vertical axis, radial symmetry and reflective symmetry are also important to the photographer.
Symmetry—or lack thereof—also has some rather unexpected consequences for photographs, and plays a role with the source of light, color balance, and more, depending upon the image.
What are the differences between symmetry and asymmetry, and how can asymmetry be exploited by the photographer? There’s an automatic assumption that being asymmetric means being visually out of balance. Put another way, breaking symmetry causes a certain amount of tension. If so, how can this out-of-balance tension be exploited? Creating an asymmetric image that seems balanced is a neat trick to pull off, but it can be done.
Ultimately, the image maker needs to realize that symmetry is important to viewers. Symmetry can be used as tool to draw the viewer in, and to add emotional emphasis.
In science, symmetry is seen as an important organizing basis for life that helps enforce simplicity. As visual artists, perhaps it makes sense to look at symmetry similarly, and regard symmetry and partial symmetry as helpful organizational constraints.
Kinds of Symmetry
The world contains a lot of symmetry. It’s almost a given that any particular photographic frame will contain some symmetry or near-symmetrical elements. You really can’t avoid symmetry even if you want to—and why would you want to?—because symmetry, longing for symmetry, absence of symmetry, and asymmetry help provide the spice that makes the visual world interesting.
Once we’re clear that symmetry will almost always be involved, it makes sense to identify the most important kinds of symmetry. They are:
Vertical symmetry: This is usually along a vertical axis, often the median axis.
Horizontal symmetry: Usually along a horizontal axis, often the median axis.
Radial symmetry: Most often seen in compositions that involve circles, spirals, or fractals.
Reflective symmetry: Often involving mirrors, reflections in water, and shadows. This kind of symmetry flips the subject in a mirror-like fashion.
A key issue with vertical and horizontal symmetry is where the axis falls. When the axis is close to the center of the image, the symmetry is considered bilateral. Horizontal and vertical symmetry that is not bilateral is sometimes called proportional symmetry.
Composition and Symmetry
From a compositional viewpoint, the most important thing that the photographer can do is to consider the placement of the axis. When this axis is perpendicular to the image frame, then the symmetry is bilateral. Once the angle of the axis is no longer exactly at 90 degrees to the border frame, then the symmetry becomes proportional, and can quickly begin to verge on asymmetry.
As in some other aspects of photographic composition, the details of positioning the camera in relationship to the subject have a huge impact on the rendition of symmetry. So keep this in mind as you are composing your image.
If you intend the image to be symmetrical along an axis, like Lower Deck, shown on page 183, then you need to position yourself smack-dab in the middle of the road, even at the possible risk of being run over (as I did).
On the other hand, if you are trying to create a radically asymmetric image, then you should go for it! Don’t even put up a pretense of symmetry, and position the camera off to one side of the image, perhaps along an image entry point. (For more about entry and exit points, turn to page 136.) Small camera movements can make a big difference when it comes to symmetry.
Radial Symmetry
With radial symmetry, the elements of the image circle around an important element. What is this element? Why is it important? What is the radial pattern surrounding the central element?
Keep in mind that—with the possible exception of floral work—radial symmetry is relatively rare, and therefore special.
In nature, flowers almost always exhibit radial symmetry. Spirals, such as those that make up the matter of the universe, are exercises in radial symmetry. Domes are an architectural application of radial symmetry. Some examples of radial symmetry include mandalas, such as Lady Pink Apple Slices on page 178 (for more about mandalas, turn to page 49), flowers, such as the Coreopsis on page 197, and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shown opposite.
Approaching radial symmetry with a camera, it’s important to behold and acknowledge the full extent of the symmetrical design. One strategy is to embrace a full circle; perhaps, the edges of the circle almost brush the inner border frame and are tangent to the border.
In some other cases, a circle may be too vast to capture in its entirety. The idea here would be to capture enough of the circle, perhaps a quarter of a turn, so that the entire circle is “completed” mentally by the viewer. The circle has been implied and strongly suggested but has not been shown in its entirety. For an example, take a look at Bottle Light Study on page 187.
Symmetry and Reflection
A different and important kind of symmetry is reflective. Reflective symmetry is really common and can be spectacular when used correctly.
There are many surfaces that can create reflective symmetry—plate glass windows in a skyscraper, a puddle, polished marble, a mirror, and more. A common photographic subject that uses reflective symmetry involves a landscape reflected in a body of water. Dawn on Lake Como on pages 192–193 is one example of this.
Reflective symmetry is uniquely manipulable and in some cases can even be created by the photographer. I once knew a photographer, Julius Vitali, who carried a portable puddle around so he could create reflections wherever he wanted.
The best starting place for understanding reflections is the Fundamental Law of Reflection, which states that the angle of reflection equals the angle of incidence (see the diagram above). In other words, this means that incoming light bounces off a reflective surface and exits at the same angle in relationship to the surface at which it entered.
Understanding the Fundamental Law of Reflection helps you to time your reflective photographs by waiting for the sunlight to hit a reflective surface such as lake or river at the right time.
To increase the amount of reflection, you can move the camera position as necessary to be located at the angle that corresponds to the angle of incidence. Putting this another way, if you want the most reflection in your photograph, then the angle of reflection should be as close as possible to the angle of incidence. Working backwards, you can get a good idea of the angle of incidence by looking at how the light strikes your subject. This should tell you how to position your camera at the angle of reflection.
Every subject has a surface. Another factor to consider is the surface’s index of reflectivity. The greater the index of reflectivity, the more you will get perfect reflective symmetry. For example, a lake in the morning when the water is perfectly calm has close to 100% index of reflectivity, and the buildings on the shoreline will be symmetrically reflected in the water. On the other hand, if a squall blows in, and the surface of the water becomes disturbed and choppy with whitecaps and waves, then the index of reflectivity decreases to close to 0% and there will be no reflections.
Any partial reflections under stormy conditions may be attractive to photograph, but they will not be symmetrical because the distortion in the water surface will distort the reflections.
Also, a reflective surface can be curved—for example, convex and concave mirrors, and water drops. In this case, when conditions are right, you will see a reflection that has been distorted due to refraction. The refracted reflection will not be entirely symmetrical—in fact, it may be wildly asymmetrical—but it can be striking and interesting in a photographic composition. For instance, take a look at Falling Flowers on pages 92–93.
Using a Polarizer
When it comes to reflections, one important tool in the photographer’s bag is the polarizer. A polarizer is a filter, also called a secondary lens, that fits at the end of the primary lens. The polarizer blocks some light from certain polarization angles, and allows other light to pass through it. There are two kinds of polarizers, linear and circular. A linear polarizer only allows horizontal or vertical light waves to enter the filter. Circular polarizers, which are usually better for photographic purposes, allow light waves that move in a circular direction to enter.
With a circular polarizer, there are two optical lenses sandwiched together. The outer optic rotates 360 degrees, compared to the inner optic, which is static once it has been affixed to the primary lens. As you rotate the outer optic, you change the effective angle of light that can enter and pass through the filter, an effect called polarizing. Perhaps you have seen this with polarized sunglasses: if you are oriented in the right direction, the sunglasses remove glare and reflection.
Having a circular polarizer mounted on a camera’s lens means that you can rotate the polarizer to cut out the light frequencies you don’t want and the emphasize the ones you do. This comes in handy when you are dealing with reflective water.
When you try it out on reflective water, depending on the angle of light striking the water, you can rotate the polarizer through almost complete transparency—meaning you can see down through the water—to almost complete opacity—which, depending on the conditions, emphasizes the reflections on the surface of the water. If the goal is to create an image with maximal reflective symmetry, then you may want to use a circular polarizer to help with this effect. For a photographer interested in reflections, a polarizer is their best friend.
Keep in mind that a polarizing filter fits on the end of your lens and is therefore part of the optical setup that captures your photographs. If you are interested in photographing reflections, you should invest in an optically high-quality polarizer. Also, the thickness of the polarizer matters, because a polarizer that is too thick can lead to optical distortion and vignetting, particularly with wide-angle lenses.
Symmetry & Emphasis
Why is symmetry so important to us? To start with, for the most part we are symmetrical beings along a medial horizontal axis. We see the world in symmetrical patterns and seeing this symmetry helps us see the balance in things. We often recognize symmetry as an action that completes an image and will respond to symmetry in an image with an inner sigh of contentment.
Just as complete symmetry conveys satisfaction, breaking symmetry is a significant event that we notice. When an image is set up to be symmetrical but, in fact, is not entirely, it is a statement.
Symmetry can enhance a composition and lack of complete symmetry can call attention to portions of an image. Whatever your intentions are as an image creator, you should not ignore the potential of symmetry and asymmetry to create emphasis in your compositions.